The supplies and tools you'll need before you start

Replacing a toilet requires a specific set of supplies and tools, most of which you probably don't own yet. Before you buy anything, decide whether you're doing this yourself or calling a plumber — that decision changes what you need to have on hand. If you're doing it yourself, you'll need the new toilet, a wrench, a screwdriver, a bucket, a sponge, a putty knife, wax ring, bolts, and shims. If you're hiring a plumber, they bring their own tools, and you only need to buy the toilet itself and the wax ring.

The wax ring is the single most important supply you cannot skip. It seals the gap between the toilet and the drain opening in your floor, and it comes with almost every new toilet. If it doesn't, buy one separately — they cost $3 to $8. The wax ring is not reusable once you remove the old toilet, so even if you have one from years ago, buy a new one.

The bolts that hold the toilet to the floor also come with most new toilets, but check the box before you leave the store. If they're not included, they cost $5 to $15 for a pair. You'll also need shims — plastic or wooden wedges that level the toilet if your floor isn't perfectly flat. A pack of shims costs $3 to $5 and is reusable across multiple projects.

Key Takeaways

  • A new toilet, wax ring, and bolts are the three things you must have; the toilet usually comes with the wax ring and bolts, so check the box before leaving the store.
  • If you're doing the work yourself, you'll also need a wrench, screwdriver, bucket, sponge, putty knife, and shims to level the toilet on an uneven floor.
  • A plumber brings their own tools, so you only need to buy the toilet and wax ring if you're hiring someone to do the replacement.
  • The old toilet can usually go to a landfill or recycling center, though some areas charge a small fee for disposal.
  • Turning off the water supply before you start prevents flooding and is the first step whether you're doing this yourself or waiting for a plumber.

Tools you need if you're replacing it yourself

A wrench — adjustable or fixed — is the main tool you'll use to disconnect the water line and remove the bolts holding the toilet down. An adjustable wrench works for most jobs and costs $10 to $20. You'll also need a screwdriver, usually a flathead, to pry off the bolt caps and help remove the old wax ring. A putty knife scrapes away the old wax ring and any remaining caulk from the floor, and a cheap one from a hardware store works fine.

A bucket catches water that drains from the tank and bowl when you disconnect the supply line — a 5-gallon bucket is standard and costs $5 to $10. A sponge or old towels soak up remaining water in the bowl. Shims level the toilet if your floor dips or rises; plastic shims are easier to trim than wooden ones and cost about $5 per pack.

You don't need a plunger for replacement, but having one nearby is smart in case water spills. If your water shutoff valve is stuck or hard to reach, a plumber's job becomes much easier — this is one of the most common reasons homeowners call for help even when they planned to do it themselves.

The new toilet itself and what to check before buying

The toilet is the largest expense in this project. Prices range from $150 to $800 depending on the brand, style, and features. A basic two-piece toilet (tank and bowl separate) costs $150 to $300. A one-piece toilet (tank and bowl fused together) costs $300 to $500. Toilets with soft-close seats, dual-flush options, or elongated bowls cost more.

Before you buy, measure the rough-in distance — the distance from the wall behind the toilet to the center of the drain opening in the floor. Standard rough-in is 12 inches, but some older homes have 10-inch or 14-inch rough-ins. If you buy a toilet with the wrong rough-in, it won't fit. Measure twice, or take a photo of the measurement to show the store staff.

Check that the box contains the wax ring and bolts. If it doesn't, add them to your cart before checkout. Some stores will include them free; others charge a small fee. Ask before you pay. Also check the seat — some toilets come with one, others don't. If you want a specific seat style or soft-close feature, you may need to buy it separately for $20 to $100.

Water supply line and shutoff valve considerations

Your toilet connects to the water supply through a supply line — a flexible hose or rigid pipe that runs from the shutoff valve to the tank. When you replace the toilet, you'll disconnect this line. Most supply lines last 5 to 10 years before they crack or leak, so if yours is old or looks brittle, buy a new one while you're at it. A new flexible supply line costs $5 to $15.

Before you start, locate your shutoff valve — it's usually on the wall behind or beside the toilet, or under the sink in the room below. Turn it clockwise to stop the water flow. If the valve is stuck, corroded, or doesn't stop the water completely, call a plumber before you remove the old toilet. Forcing a stuck valve can break it, and you'll need it working to refill the tank after installation.

If your shutoff valve leaks or doesn't work, a plumber can replace it while they're there, or you can do it yourself if you're comfortable with basic plumbing. A new shutoff valve costs $10 to $30 and takes about 15 minutes to install if you have the right wrench.

Caulk and sealant for finishing the job

After the new toilet is bolted down and level, most people caulk around the base where the toilet meets the floor. This is optional — some plumbers skip it to make future removal easier — but it looks finished and prevents water from pooling underneath if the tank or bowl ever sweats or leaks. Silicone caulk works best and costs $3 to $8 per tube. You'll need a caulking gun ($5 to $15) if you don't already own one.

Do not caulk all the way around the toilet. Leave a small gap at the back or side so water can escape if there's a leak — if water gets trapped under a fully caulked toilet, it can damage the floor without you noticing. Most plumbers caulk three sides and leave one side open, or caulk only the front and sides.

Disposal of the old toilet

Once the old toilet is removed, you need to get it out of your home. Toilets are heavy — usually 80 to 100 pounds — and awkward to carry. If you're doing the replacement yourself, you may want to ask a friend to help move it. Some plumbers include removal and disposal in their quote; others charge extra, usually $50 to $100.

Most landfills and recycling centers accept old toilets, though some charge a small fee ($5 to $20). Call your local waste management facility or check their website to see what they charge and whether you need to schedule a drop-off time. Some areas have bulk pickup days where you can leave large items on the curb. A few retailers that sell toilets will haul away the old one for free or a small fee if you buy the new one from them — ask before you buy.

When to call a plumber instead of doing it yourself

Toilet replacement is a project many homeowners can do, but it's not right for everyone. Call a plumber if your shutoff valve doesn't work or is stuck, if the bolts holding the old toilet are rusted and won't budge, if your floor is very uneven or damaged around the toilet, or if you're not comfortable working with water lines and drainage. A plumber charges $150 to $300 for labor on a straightforward replacement, plus the cost of the toilet and supplies.

You should also call a plumber if you notice cracks in the floor, soft spots, or water damage when you remove the old toilet. These signs mean the subfloor or joists underneath may be rotted, and the new toilet won't sit properly until that's fixed. Catching this early saves you from a wobbly toilet or future water damage.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a new wax ring every time I remove the toilet?

Yes. The wax ring compresses and breaks apart when you remove the toilet, so it cannot seal properly if you reuse it. Always buy a new wax ring before you start. They cost $3 to $8 and come with most new toilets.

What if the bolts holding the old toilet are rusted and won't come loose?

Spray them with penetrating oil (like WD-40) and wait 15 to 30 minutes, then try again. If they still won't budge, stop and call a plumber. Forcing a rusted bolt can crack the porcelain or damage the floor flange underneath, which is expensive to repair.

Can I use the old supply line with the new toilet?

You can, but if it's more than 5 to 10 years old, it's worth replacing. Old supply lines crack or leak, and a new one costs only $5 to $15. Since you're already doing the work, it's cheaper to replace it now than to fix a leak later.

Do I need a plumber's license to replace a toilet myself?

No. Toilet replacement is a homeowner project in most places and doesn't require a permit or license. However, if you need to replace the shutoff valve or repair the floor underneath, some areas require a licensed plumber for those tasks. Check with your local building department if you're unsure.

What's the difference between a one-piece and two-piece toilet?

A two-piece toilet has a separate tank and bowl bolted together; a one-piece has them fused as one unit. One-piece toilets are easier to clean and look sleeker, but they cost more and are heavier to move. Two-piece toilets are cheaper and easier to carry, but the seam between tank and bowl can leak over time if the bolts loosen.