A buttonhole is a reinforced slit you cut into fabric, then stitch around the edges so it doesn't fray

A hand-sewn buttonhole starts with marking and cutting a small slit in your fabric, then wrapping thread around the cut edges in tight, close stitches called a buttonhole stitch (also called a blanket stitch). The stitches lock the thread around the edge of the slit and prevent the fabric from unraveling when you button and unbutton the garment. The whole process takes 10 to 20 minutes per buttonhole once you understand the rhythm, and the result is stronger than many machine-made buttonholes because you control the tension and stitch placement.

This guide assumes you already know how to thread a needle and make a basic running stitch. If you're new to hand sewing, start with a scrap of fabric the same weight as your garment—cotton, linen, or wool work best for practice. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits until you've done a few buttonholes on stable material.

Key Takeaways

  • Mark your buttonhole with a pencil or tailor's chalk in a straight line the width of your button plus 1/8 inch, then cut carefully along that line with sharp scissors or a seam ripper.
  • Thread your needle with thread that matches your fabric, use a single strand about 18 inches long, and knot one end before you start stitching.
  • The buttonhole stitch wraps thread around the cut edge in a loop, with each stitch placed close enough that no fabric shows between them—aim for stitches about 1/16 inch apart.
  • Stitch around all four sides of the slit (two long sides and two short ends), keeping your stitches even in size and angle so the buttonhole looks finished and professional.
  • Reinforce the corners at each end of the slit with extra stitches or a small bar tack to prevent the buttonhole from tearing open under stress.

Mark and cut your buttonhole opening

Use a ruler and a pencil or tailor's chalk to draw a straight line on the right side of your fabric. The line should be as long as your button's diameter plus 1/8 inch—so a 3/4-inch button gets a 7/8-inch buttonhole. Mark the line clearly so you can see it when you cut.

Cut along the line with sharp fabric scissors or a seam ripper, cutting straight down the middle of the marked line. Do not cut past your marked endpoints—stop exactly where the line ends. If you're using a seam ripper, make a small slit first, then slide the ripper along the line to widen it. The cut edges will be raw and loose; the buttonhole stitch will find them.

Prepare your thread and needle

Cut a length of thread about 18 inches long and thread it through your needle. Use thread that matches your fabric color, or choose a contrasting color if you want the buttonhole to be decorative. Pull the thread so one end is about 4 inches longer than the other, then tie a knot at the longer end. You'll work with a single strand of thread, not doubled.

Bring your needle up through the fabric from the wrong side (the back), about 1/16 inch away from the cut edge, so the knot stays hidden on the back. You're now ready to begin the buttonhole stitch.

Stitch the long sides of the buttonhole

The buttonhole stitch creates a loop of thread along the edge of the cut. Start at one end of your buttonhole slit. Bring your needle up through the fabric from underneath, very close to the cut edge. Before you pull the thread all the way through, loop the thread under the needle's point (the thread should form a small loop). Now pull the needle through—the loop will tighten around the edge of the fabric and create a knot.

Move along the cut edge about 1/16 inch and repeat: bring the needle up from underneath, loop the thread under the needle, and pull through. Keep your stitches small, close, and parallel to the cut edge. The stitches should be so close together that no raw fabric shows between them. Work your way down one long side of the buttonhole, keeping the stitches even in size and angle.

When you reach the end of the first long side, you'll stitch the short end (the corner). At the corner, make two or three stitches in the same spot to reinforce it—this prevents the buttonhole from tearing when you button the garment. Then continue up the other long side, working back toward where you started.

Finish the corners and reinforce the ends

The two short ends of the buttonhole (where the slit begins and ends) take extra stress when you button and unbutton. After you've stitched around both long sides and both corners, go back to each end and add a bar tack—a small reinforcement made of several stitches stacked on top of each other.

To make a bar tack, bring your needle up at one end of the buttonhole, then make three or four stitches in the same spot, going in and out of the fabric without moving along the edge. This creates a thick bundle of thread that acts like a tiny bar across the end of the slit. Repeat at the other end. Tie off your thread on the wrong side with a small knot, and trim the excess.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common error is spacing stitches too far apart, which leaves gaps of raw fabric showing. If you can see the cut edge between stitches, your stitches are too far apart—move them closer together. Another mistake is pulling the thread too tight, which puckers the fabric around the buttonhole. Pull just firmly enough to seat the stitch; the fabric should lie flat.

Uneven stitch size makes the buttonhole look sloppy. Try to make each stitch the same length and angle as the one before it. If your first few stitches are wobbly, that's normal—your hand will find the rhythm after a few inches. Cutting the slit too long or too short is also common; measure twice and cut once, and remember that the slit should be slightly longer than the button's diameter so the button passes through without strain.

Practice on scrap fabric first

Before you stitch a buttonhole on your actual garment, make two or three practice buttonholes on a scrap of the same fabric. This lets you get comfortable with the stitch rhythm and see how tight or loose your tension should be. A practice buttonhole also shows you whether your thread color is right and whether the stitch size looks good on that particular fabric weight.

Keep your practice pieces—they're a record of your progress and a reference if you need to match the stitch later. After you've done three or four practice buttonholes, you'll find the real ones go much faster and look more even.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size should my buttonhole be?

Measure your button's diameter and add 1/8 inch. So a 3/4-inch button gets a 7/8-inch buttonhole. The extra 1/8 inch gives the button room to pass through without strain. If your button is very thick or chunky, add a bit more—test by sliding the button through a scrap buttonhole first.

Can I use a thicker thread to make the buttonhole stronger?

Yes. Buttonhole thread or embroidery thread is thicker than regular sewing thread and creates a more visible, durable stitch. It also covers the raw edge better. Use it the same way as regular thread—a single strand, knotted at one end.

What if I cut the slit crooked or too long?

If the slit is slightly crooked, the buttonhole stitch will hide it as you work. If you cut too long, the buttonhole will be loose and the button may slip through. If you cut too short, the button won't fit. There's no fix once you've cut—you'll need to sew the slit closed and start over on a different spot, or accept a slightly loose or tight fit.

How do I know if my stitches are tight enough?

The thread should grip the fabric edge firmly enough that the raw edge doesn't show, but not so tight that the fabric puckers. If you can see the cut edge between stitches, tighten up. If the fabric around the buttonhole is bunched or wrinkled, you're pulling too hard—ease off slightly.

Do I have to use matching thread?

No. Contrasting thread makes the buttonhole a decorative feature. Matching thread makes it blend in. Either works—it's a design choice. Just make sure your thread is strong enough for the stress a buttonhole takes.