Hand-sewn buttonholes use a straightforward running stitch and a reinforcing loop
A hand-sewn buttonhole is a slit in fabric with thread stitches around the edges to keep it from fraying. The most common method for home sewing is the running stitch buttonhole, which takes about 15 to 20 minutes per hole once you have the technique down. You mark the buttonhole length on your fabric, cut a slit, and then stitch around the opening with thread that matches your fabric or contrasts by choice.
The running stitch buttonhole works on most garments — shirts, dresses, coats, and light jackets. It is not the strongest option for heavy coats or work wear, where a bound buttonhole (which uses fabric strips instead of thread) holds up better. For everyday sewing, the running stitch is fast, visible, and durable enough for regular wear.
Key Takeaways
- Mark your buttonhole length with a pencil or fabric pen before you cut, and cut straight down the center line to avoid ragged edges.
- Thread your needle with a single strand of thread that matches your fabric, and use a running stitch around all four sides of the opening.
- Reinforce the corners with extra stitches or a small bar tack to prevent the slit from tearing at the stress points.
- Test the buttonhole size by pushing your button through before you finish — a snug fit that requires gentle pressure is correct.
Mark and cut the buttonhole opening
Use a ruler and fabric pen or tailor's chalk to draw a straight line the length of your buttonhole. The length should be the diameter of your button plus 1/8 inch — a standard shirt button (5/8 inch wide) needs a buttonhole about 3/4 inch long. Mark the line on the right side of the fabric so you can see it while you work.
Cut straight down the center of the marked line with small, sharp scissors or a seam ripper. Stop about 1/4 inch from each end to leave fabric for reinforcement. Do not cut all the way to the edge — the small uncut sections at each end prevent the hole from splitting open when you wear the garment.
Prepare your thread and needle
Use a single strand of thread about 18 inches long — longer threads tangle and fray as you work. Thread color should match your fabric for an invisible finish, or contrast if you want the stitching to show as a design detail. A size 7 or 8 needle works for most fabrics; use a smaller needle for delicate cloth and a larger one for heavy linen or canvas.
Knot the end of your thread and bring the needle up through the fabric just to the left of the buttonhole opening, about 1/8 inch away from the cut edge. This starting position keeps your knot hidden on the wrong side of the fabric.
Stitch around the buttonhole opening
Use a running stitch to go around all four sides of the buttonhole. Start at the bottom left corner and stitch up the left side, making stitches about 1/16 inch long and 1/16 inch apart. Keep your stitches close to the edge of the cut so the thread anchors the fabric and prevents fraying.
At the top left corner, make two or three stitches in the same spot — this is called a bar tack — to reinforce the corner where stress is highest. Continue stitching across the top of the buttonhole, then down the right side, then across the bottom. Make another bar tack at the bottom right corner before you finish.
When you reach the starting point, bring your needle to the wrong side of the fabric and make a small knot. Trim the thread close to the knot so it does not catch on the button.
Reinforce the corners with a second pass (optional)
For buttonholes on coats or frequently worn garments, a second row of stitches adds durability. Thread your needle again with a fresh strand and stitch around the buttonhole a second time, placing these stitches just inside the first row. This double-stitched edge is thicker and resists fraying longer.
You can also use a backstitch for the second pass instead of a running stitch — backstitches are stronger but take longer. A single running stitch is enough for most everyday wear.
Test the buttonhole before you finish the garment
Push your button through the finished buttonhole to check the fit. The button should slide through with gentle pressure — not so loose that it falls out on its own, and not so tight that you have to force it. If the hole is too small, carefully cut a few threads at one end and enlarge the slit slightly, then add a few more stitches to find the new edge.
If the hole is too large, you have cut too much fabric and will need to reinforce it with a patch on the wrong side or accept a looser fit. This is why testing before you finish the garment saves time.
Frequently Asked Questions
What thread should I use for buttonholes?
Use thread that matches your fabric color for an invisible finish. Buttonhole thread is thicker than regular sewing thread and resists fraying, but regular thread works fine if you use a single strand. Avoid cheap polyester thread — it breaks easily under the stress of repeated buttoning.
How do I fix a buttonhole that is too big?
If you cut too much fabric, the buttonhole will not hold the button securely. Sew a small fabric patch on the wrong side of the garment behind the buttonhole, then re-stitch the edges. For a quick fix, you can also wrap thread around the button itself to make it slightly larger, though this is temporary.
Can I use a buttonhole stitch instead of a running stitch?
Yes. A buttonhole stitch (also called a blanket stitch) loops thread around the edge and is stronger than a running stitch. It takes longer and is more visible, but it prevents fraying better on fabrics that fray easily, like linen or cotton voile. Practice on scrap fabric first — the stitch has a learning curve.
How many stitches should I make around the buttonhole?
Aim for stitches about 1/16 inch apart all the way around. A 3/4-inch buttonhole needs roughly 12 to 16 stitches per side, or about 50 to 60 stitches total. Closer stitches are stronger but take longer; wider stitches are faster but leave gaps where fabric can fray.
What is a bar tack and why do I need it?
A bar tack is two or three stitches made in the same spot at each corner of the buttonhole. It reinforces the corners where the most stress occurs when you button and unbutton the garment. Without bar tacks, the corners tear open first.