Start with the running stitch for seams that hold
The running stitch is the foundation of hand sewing and the stitch you will use for most seams in clothing. It is straightforward a needle passing in and out of fabric in a straight line, creating a row of small dashes on both sides. This stitch is fast, strong enough for everyday wear, and the easiest to learn if you have never sewn before.
Thread your needle, tie a knot at the end, and push the needle up through both layers of fabric from underneath. Pull the thread until the knot catches. Now push the needle back down through the fabric about one-eighth inch away, then bring it back up one-eighth inch further along the seam line. Repeat this forward-and-back motion along the entire seam. Keep your stitches even in size and spacing—uneven stitches are visible and weaker. A seam sewn with a running stitch will hold through washing and wearing if your thread is knotted securely at both ends.
The most common mistake is making stitches too large. Stitches wider than one-quarter inch will gap and tear under stress. If you are sewing a seam that will bear weight—like an armhole or a waistband—aim for stitches no larger than one-eighth inch.
Key Takeaways
- The running stitch creates a seam by passing the needle in and out of fabric in a straight line, with stitches roughly one-eighth inch long and spaced evenly.
- The backstitch is stronger than the running stitch and is the best choice for seams that will stretch or carry weight, like underarms or crotch seams.
- Always knot your thread at both ends of a seam, and pull the thread snug but not so tight that it puckers the fabric.
- Sewing a straight seam requires a ruler or measuring tape to mark your line before you start, so your stitches follow a path rather than wandering.
- Start with straightforward projects like pillowcases or drawstring bags before moving to fitted garments, because straight seams are easier to sew evenly than curved ones.
Use the backstitch when the seam must not fail
The backstitch is stronger than the running stitch because each stitch overlaps the one before it, creating a solid line with no gaps. This stitch takes longer but is worth the time for seams that will stretch or carry weight—underarms, crotch seams, or any place where a torn seam would ruin the garment.
Bring your needle up through the fabric, then push it back down one-eighth inch behind where the thread came out. Bring the needle back up one-eighth inch ahead of where it went down. Now push the needle back into the hole where the previous stitch ended. Repeat: up ahead, back into the last hole, up ahead again. The thread will form a solid line on top and a zigzag underneath. This stitch is slower than the running stitch but nearly impossible to tear once it is in place.
Backstitch is also the stitch to use if you are sewing stretchy fabric like knit or jersey. The overlap gives the seam enough give that it will not snap when the fabric stretches. If you are hemming a knit garment, backstitch the entire hem rather than running stitch.
Mark your seam line before you sew
A straight seam depends on a straight line. Before you thread your needle, use a ruler or measuring tape to mark the line you will follow. Tailor's chalk, a fabric pencil, or even a ballpoint pen works—the mark will disappear or wash out. For a standard seam, mark one-half inch in from the edge of the fabric, because that is the width most garment patterns assume.
If you are sewing two pieces together, pin them first with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Push pins perpendicular to the seam line, spaced about two inches apart. The pins hold the fabric steady and keep the layers from sliding as you sew. Remove each pin just before your needle reaches it—do not sew over pins, because the needle will bend or break.
For curved seams like armholes or necklines, mark the line in pencil and use more pins, spaced closer together. Curved seams are harder to keep straight, so take smaller stitches and check your line often as you work.
Tie off your thread so the seam does not unravel
A seam that is not knotted at both ends will unravel the moment a thread catches. Before you start sewing, tie a knot at the end of your thread by wrapping the thread around your needle once, then pulling the needle through the loop. This creates a small knot that will catch under the fabric when you push the needle up through the first stitch.
When you reach the end of the seam, push the needle to the underside of the fabric and make two small stitches in the same spot—one on top of the other. This creates a knot on the wrong side of the garment where it will not be seen. Trim the thread close to the knot. If the seam will be visible on the finished garment, bury the knot inside the seam by pushing the needle between the two layers of fabric for about one-half inch before you tie off.
If a seam starts to unravel after you have worn the garment, you can re-knot it by threading a needle, pushing it under the loose stitches from the inside, and tying a new knot on the wrong side.
Choose thread weight and fiber to match your fabric
Thread comes in different weights and fibers, and the right choice makes sewing easier and the seam stronger. For lightweight fabrics like cotton lawn or linen, use all-purpose thread in a matching color—it is thin enough that it will not create bulk in the seam. For heavier fabrics like denim or canvas, use the same all-purpose thread but in a thicker weight, or use buttonhole thread, which is twisted and stronger.
Match the thread color to the fabric as closely as you can. If you cannot find an exact match, choose a shade slightly darker than the fabric—it will be less visible than a lighter shade. For seams that will be hidden inside the garment, like the inside of a hem, you can use any color.
Polyester thread is stronger than cotton and will not rot or fade, so it is the best choice for garments that will be washed often. Cotton thread is easier to work with by hand because it does not slip as much, so it is a good choice if you are learning. Do not use thread that is old or has been stored in direct sunlight—it becomes brittle and will break as you sew.
Sew a straightforward pillowcase as your first project
A pillowcase is the easiest clothing project because it is made of two straight seams and one curved seam (the opening), and mistakes are not visible once the pillow is stuffed. Start with two pieces of fabric cut to the same size—fourteen inches by twenty inches is a good size for a standard pillow. Place them right sides together and pin three sides, leaving one short end open for turning and stuffing.
Sew the three pinned sides using a running stitch, keeping your stitches even and your line straight. At each corner, stop with the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot (if you were using a machine—with hand sewing, just pause), rotate the fabric, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp corner instead of a rounded one. When you reach the end of the third side, tie off your thread.
Turn the pillowcase right side out through the open end—the seams are now hidden inside. Stuff it with fiberfill or a pillow form, then fold the raw edges of the opening inward and pin them closed. Sew the opening shut using a ladder stitch, which is invisible from the outside: bring the needle out of the fold of fabric on one side, push it straight across into the fold on the opposite side, slide it inside the fold for about one-half inch, then come back out and cross to the other side again. This creates a seam that closes from the inside and is nearly invisible.
Frequently Asked Questions
How tight should I pull the thread as I sew?
Pull the thread snug enough that the fabric layers do not shift, but not so tight that the fabric puckers or wrinkles. If you see small folds forming along the seam line, you are pulling too hard. Loosen your grip slightly and the puckers should disappear. The thread should lie flat against the fabric with no slack.
What size needle should I use?
Use a needle size that matches your fabric weight: a size 7 or 8 for lightweight fabrics, a size 9 or 10 for medium-weight fabrics like cotton, and a size 11 or 12 for heavy fabrics like denim. A needle that is too small will bend, and a needle that is too large will leave visible holes in the fabric. If the needle is hard to push through the fabric, switch to a smaller size.
Can I hand sew a shirt or dress?
Yes, but it will take much longer than machine sewing—a straightforward shirt might take ten to fifteen hours. Start with smaller projects like pillowcases, drawstring bags, or straightforward skirts to build your speed and accuracy. Once you are comfortable with straight seams, you can move to fitted garments, which require curved seams and more precision.
How do I fix a seam that came undone?
If only a few stitches have come loose, thread a needle and re-sew those stitches using the same stitch type as the original seam. If the entire seam has unraveled, you will need to re-sew the whole thing. Push the needle under the loose threads from the inside to hide the knot, then sew forward along the original seam line.
What is the difference between hand sewing and machine sewing?
Hand sewing is slower but gives you more control over each stitch and is easier to adjust if you make a mistake. Machine sewing is faster and creates more uniform stitches, but requires a sewing machine and is harder to fix mid-seam. For learning, hand sewing teaches you how seams actually work, which makes machine sewing easier later.