Hand-sewn ruffles start with a long piece of fabric gathered down to half its width
A ruffle is fabric bunched and stitched to create a wavy, decorative edge. The basic method is to sew two parallel lines of loose stitches across a strip of fabric, then pull the thread ends to bunch the fabric tight. Once gathered, you stitch the ruffle to your garment or project with a third line of stitches that locks it in place. The whole process takes about 30 to 45 minutes for a ruffle on a small garment.
The ruffle strip itself should be roughly twice as long as the edge you want to decorate. If you are adding a ruffle to a 20-inch hem, cut your ruffle strip about 40 inches long. The width of the strip depends on how full you want the ruffle to look — a 2-inch strip creates a modest ruffle, while a 4-inch strip looks more dramatic.
Key Takeaways
- Cut your ruffle strip twice the length of the edge you want to decorate, and sew two parallel gathering lines about half an inch apart near the raw edge.
- Pull both thread ends at once to bunch the fabric evenly, then wrap the threads around a pin to hold the gather in place while you work.
- Attach the ruffle to your garment with a third line of stitches that runs through all layers and sits just below the gathering threads.
- Press the ruffle gently with an iron after stitching to set the folds and create a neater finished edge.
Prepare your ruffle strip and mark the gathering lines
Start by cutting a rectangle of fabric to the length and width you have decided on. If the fabric is prone to fraying, trim the long edges with pinking shears or a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine — this is optional but makes the finished ruffle look cleaner. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with the wrong side facing out, then press it with an iron to create a center crease.
Open the strip back out flat. Using a ruler and a fabric pencil or chalk, draw two light lines parallel to one of the long raw edges, about half an inch apart. These lines should sit roughly one-quarter inch from the edge. These are your gathering lines — the stitches will run along them, and the threads will pull to bunch the fabric.
Sew the two gathering lines with loose, even stitches
Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Starting at one end of the strip, push the needle through the fabric along the first line you marked. Use a running stitch — push the needle in and out of the fabric in small, even segments, about one-eighth inch apart. The stitches do not need to be perfect; they just need to be consistent so the fabric gathers evenly.
Leave a 6-inch tail of thread hanging at the start. Stitch all the way to the opposite end of the strip, then leave another 6-inch tail hanging. Do not tie off the thread. Repeat this entire process along the second line you marked, using a fresh length of thread and leaving 6-inch tails at both ends.
You now have two parallel rows of loose stitches with thread tails at each end. These tails are what you will pull to gather the fabric.
Pull the threads to gather the fabric evenly
Hold the ruffle strip with the gathering lines facing you. Gently pull both thread tails at one end of the strip at the same time. As you pull, the fabric will begin to bunch and wrinkle along the stitched lines. Keep pulling until the ruffle is bunched down to roughly half its original length — so a 40-inch strip becomes about 20 inches.
Once the ruffle is gathered to the right length, wrap both thread tails around a pin or a small piece of scrap fabric to hold the gather in place. Do not cut the threads yet. Gently push the bunched fabric along the threads to distribute the gathers evenly across the entire length. The folds should look roughly the same size from one end to the other.
Attach the ruffle to your garment with a third line of stitches
Position the gathered ruffle against the edge of your garment with the right sides facing each other. The gathering lines should sit just inside the seam allowance — typically one-quarter to one-half inch from the edge. Pin the ruffle in place along its entire length, spacing pins about 2 inches apart.
Thread your needle with a fresh length of thread and tie a knot. Stitch along the gathering line closest to the raw edge of the ruffle, sewing through the ruffle and the garment at the same time. Use a running stitch and keep your stitches small and even. This line of stitches locks the ruffle permanently to the garment and sits just below the gathering threads.
Once you have stitched all the way across, remove the pins. Carefully cut away the gathering threads — the two loose threads you pulled to bunch the fabric. Pull gently so you do not disturb the stitches you just made. Trim any loose thread ends.
Press and finish the ruffle edge
Lay the garment flat on an ironing board with the ruffle facing up. Set your iron to a low or medium heat setting appropriate for your fabric. Press the ruffle gently, working from the center outward. Do not press hard or you will flatten the gathers. The goal is to set the folds in place and create a neat, finished look.
If your ruffle has a raw outer edge, you can fold it under by one-quarter inch and stitch it down with a whip stitch for a polished finish. Alternatively, you can leave the edge raw if your fabric does not fray badly, or finish it with pinking shears for a decorative edge.
Troubleshooting common ruffle problems
If your gathers are uneven, the most common cause is inconsistent stitch length along the gathering lines. Stitches that are too large in some spots will not bunch as tightly as stitches that are too small. If you notice this before you attach the ruffle, you can carefully remove the gathering threads and re-stitch those sections with smaller, more even stitches.
If the ruffle puckers or wrinkles in an ugly way after you stitch it to the garment, the gathering may be too tight or the stitches may be pulling the fabric. Try loosening the gathering slightly by gently pulling the thread tails in the opposite direction, then re-stitch with a slightly looser tension. If the ruffle looks too flat, you gathered it too much — remove the stitches, pull the gathering threads to loosen it, and try again.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much fabric do I need for a ruffle?
A ruffle strip should be roughly twice the length of the edge you want to decorate. If you are adding a ruffle to a 15-inch neckline, cut a strip about 30 inches long. The width depends on how full you want the ruffle — 2 to 4 inches is typical.
Can I use a sewing machine to gather fabric instead of hand stitching?
Yes. Set your machine to the longest stitch length and loosen the top tension slightly. Sew two parallel lines as described, then pull the bobbin threads to gather. This is faster than hand stitching and works well for larger projects.
What if my ruffle fabric is very thin or delicate?
Use a thinner needle and shorter stitch length to avoid tearing the fabric. You can also back the ruffle strip with a lightweight interfacing before gathering to give it more body and make it easier to handle.
Do I have to fold the ruffle strip in half before gathering?
No. Folding and pressing creates a center crease that helps you mark the gathering lines evenly, but it is not required. You can mark and gather a flat strip just as easily.
Can I add a ruffle to an already-finished garment?
Yes, but it is more difficult. You will need to carefully open a seam or edge, insert the ruffle, and re-stitch. It is much easier to add a ruffle before the garment is fully assembled.