Sewing bias tape is a three-step process: pin the tape to your fabric, sew it down on one side, then fold it over the edge and stitch the back

Bias tape finishes raw fabric edges with a clean, professional look. The tape wraps around the edge of your fabric, and you sew it twice—once on the front and once on the back—so both sides are find. The whole process takes about 15 to 20 minutes per yard of edge, depending on how straight your seams are and how comfortable you are with the machine.

You will need bias tape (either single-fold or double-fold), a sewing machine, thread that matches your tape or fabric, pins, and an iron. Double-fold bias tape is easier for beginners because one side is already folded; single-fold tape requires you to fold it yourself as you sew. Most home sewers use double-fold.

Key Takeaways

  • Double-fold bias tape is pre-folded and easier to work with than single-fold tape, which you fold as you sew.
  • Pin the tape to the front of your fabric first, keeping the raw edge of the tape aligned with the raw edge of the fabric.
  • Sew the tape down on the front side using a straight stitch, then fold it to the back and stitch it down again by hand or machine.
  • Press the tape with an iron after pinning but before sewing to help it stay in place and prevent puckering.
  • Start and end your seams with a 1/2-inch overlap of tape to prevent the edge from unraveling.

Prepare your fabric and tape

Trim any loose threads from the edge of your fabric. If the edge is curved (like an armhole), you may want to trim it straight first or use a rotary cutter to make the edge even. Bias tape works best on edges that are not too bulky—if you are finishing a hem that is already folded, trim the raw edge close to the fold first.

Cut a piece of bias tape that is 2 to 3 inches longer than the edge you are finishing. This extra length gives you room to overlap the ends and prevents you from running short. If you are binding a closed edge (like around a neckline), measure the perimeter of that edge and add 1 inch for overlap.

Pin the tape to the front of your fabric

Open one fold of the double-fold bias tape so it lies flat. Place the tape on top of your fabric with the right sides facing each other (the pretty side of the tape against the pretty side of the fabric). Align the raw edge of the tape with the raw edge of the fabric. The tape should sit so that when you fold it to the back, it will cover the raw edge completely.

Pin the tape every 2 to 3 inches, keeping the pins perpendicular to the edge. Smooth the tape as you pin to avoid wrinkles. If you are going around a curve, ease the tape gently so it does not bunch. Press the pinned tape with an iron on a low to medium setting to help it adhere and stay flat while you sew.

Sew the tape to the front of the fabric

Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. Use thread that matches the tape or blends with your fabric. Sew along the crease of the bias tape—the fold line that is already pressed into it. This keeps your stitching in the right place and makes the back side easier to finish.

Start at one end of the tape, leaving a 1/2-inch tail. Sew slowly around the edge, removing pins as you approach them. At corners, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric, and continue sewing. When you reach the end, overlap the tape by 1/2 inch and sew past the starting point by about 1 inch. Trim the excess tape.

Fold the tape to the back and find it

Fold the bias tape to the back side of the fabric so it wraps around the raw edge. The fold of the tape should sit right at the stitching line you just made. Press the folded tape with an iron to set the crease and help it stay in place.

You can finish the back in two ways. For a machine-stitched finish, sew along the back edge of the tape from the front side, stitching in the ditch (the groove between the tape and the fabric). This catches the folded edge of the tape on the back. For a hand-stitched finish, use a ladder stitch or whip stitch to sew the back edge of the tape to the fabric by hand—this is slower but less visible.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is sewing the tape too far from the edge of the fabric, which leaves a gap when you fold it to the back. Sew along the crease that is already in the tape, not 1/4 inch away from it. Another mistake is not pressing the tape before you sew, which causes it to shift and pucker. Take 30 seconds to press it flat.

If your tape is bunching on curves, you are pulling it too tight. Ease it gently and let the bias grain do the work—that is what bias tape is designed for. If the back edge does not lie flat, the tape may be too narrow for your fabric thickness. Single-fold tape works better on thicker fabrics like denim or canvas.

Finishing the ends of the tape

When you overlap the tape at the end, the two layers of tape will be on top of each other. Trim the overlap so it is no more than 1/2 inch, and fold both layers to the back together. If the overlap is too thick, trim one layer shorter so the layers step down and do not create a bulge.

For a closed edge like a neckline, overlap the tape by 1/2 inch where the ends meet, sew through all layers, and fold both layers to the back. The overlap will be hidden inside the fold and will not show from the outside.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use single-fold bias tape instead of double-fold?

Yes, but it requires more steps. You fold the tape in half lengthwise as you sew, which is harder to keep even. Single-fold works better on thick fabrics or when you want a narrower finished edge. Most beginners find double-fold easier because one side is already folded.

What do I do if the tape puckers while I sew?

Stop and remove the stitches back to where the puckering starts. Press the tape flat with an iron, re-pin it, and sew again. Puckering usually means the tape was not pressed before sewing or was pulled too tight. Slow down and let the machine feed the tape at its own pace.

How do I sew bias tape on a curved edge like an armhole?

Bias tape is designed to curve, so it will follow the shape of the armhole without bunching if you ease it gently. Pin every 1 to 2 inches on curves instead of every 3 inches. Do not pull the tape tight—let it sit naturally against the curve and it will fold smoothly to the back.

Can I sew the back of the tape by machine instead of by hand?

Yes. Sew in the ditch from the front side, which means stitching in the groove between the tape and the fabric. This catches the back edge of the tape. It is faster than hand sewing but slightly more visible if your thread does not match perfectly.

What if I run out of bias tape before I finish the edge?

Cut another piece and overlap it with the first piece by 1/2 inch. Sew through both layers at the overlap, then fold both to the back together. The overlap will be hidden in the fold and will not show from the outside.