Sewing binding to a blanket edge

Binding is a strip of fabric folded in half lengthwise and sewn to the edge of your blanket to finish it neatly and prevent fraying. You sew it in two passes: first you attach the binding to the front of the blanket with a straight seam, then you fold the binding to the back and stitch it down by hand or machine. The whole process takes about two to three hours for a standard blanket, depending on the blanket size and whether you hand-stitch or machine-stitch the back.

The binding itself is usually cut 2.5 inches wide from fabric grain (the direction the threads run), then pressed in half lengthwise so it becomes 1.25 inches wide. You can buy pre-made binding at fabric stores, but cutting and pressing your own gives you more control over the finished look and lets you match the blanket fabric exactly.

Key Takeaways

  • Binding is sewn in two passes: first to the front of the blanket with a machine, then folded to the back and stitched down by hand or machine.
  • Cut binding strips 2.5 inches wide, join them end-to-end with diagonal seams, then press the entire strip in half lengthwise before sewing.
  • Sew the binding to the front with a quarter-inch seam allowance, mitering (folding) the corners so the binding lies flat at the edges.
  • Hand-stitching the binding to the back takes longer but gives a softer, less visible seam; machine-stitching is faster and holds up better in the wash.
  • Test your seam on a scrap of blanket fabric first to make sure your thread tension is even and your needle is not skipping stitches.

Prepare your blanket and measure for binding

Before you cut binding, measure the perimeter of your blanket. Measure the length and width, add them together, multiply by two, then add 10 inches for overlap and corner seams. For example, a 60-by-80-inch blanket has a perimeter of 280 inches, so you need about 290 inches of finished binding.

Trim the blanket edges straight with a rotary cutter and ruler, or with scissors if you do not have a cutter. Binding looks best when it is sewn to a clean, even edge. If your blanket has a selvage (the finished edge woven by the manufacturer), trim it off—selvage shrinks differently than the rest of the fabric and will pucker the binding.

Press the blanket flat with an iron on medium heat. Binding shows every wrinkle and bump underneath it, so a smooth blanket makes the finished binding look professional.

Cut and join binding strips

Cut strips 2.5 inches wide across the width of your fabric (perpendicular to the selvage). You will need enough strips to reach your total length. For a 290-inch blanket, cut strips until you have roughly 300 inches of material—the extra accounts for the seams that join the strips together.

Lay two strips right sides together at a 45-degree angle, so the corners overlap slightly. Draw a diagonal line across the overlap from the top-left corner to the bottom-right corner, then sew along that line. Trim the excess fabric to a quarter inch from the seam and press the seam open. Repeat until all your strips are joined into one long strip.

Press the entire joined strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, so it is now 1.25 inches wide. Use a medium-hot iron and press slowly—rushing this step causes wrinkles that show in the finished binding. Fold as you go rather than trying to fold the whole strip at once.

Attach binding to the front of the blanket

Start at the middle of one side, not at a corner. Unfold the binding strip and align the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the blanket, right sides together. Pin every 4 to 6 inches. Sew with a quarter-inch seam allowance using a straight stitch and thread that matches the binding or the blanket—whichever is more visible.

When you reach a corner, stop sewing a quarter inch before the corner point. Backstitch to lock the seam, then remove the blanket from the machine. Fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle (away from the corner), then fold it back down so it runs along the next edge of the blanket. This creates a mitered corner—a neat diagonal fold that lets the binding turn the corner without bunching. Pin the fold in place, then continue sewing from the corner point down the next side. Repeat at each corner.

When you reach the starting point, overlap the binding ends by about 1 inch. Trim the excess binding, then sew the overlap seam. Backstitch at the end to lock the seam.

Fold binding to the back and stitch it down

Fold the binding to the back of the blanket so the folded edge of the binding covers the machine stitching you just made. The binding should wrap around the edge smoothly without puckering. Pin it in place every 4 to 6 inches, checking that the fold is even all the way around.

At the corners, the mitered fold you made on the front will automatically create a mitered fold on the back. Make sure the back corners are folded neatly and pin them securely.

You now have two choices: hand-stitch the binding to the back, or machine-stitch it. Hand-stitching takes longer (30 to 45 minutes for a blanket) but creates an invisible seam and a softer edge. Machine-stitching takes 10 to 15 minutes and is more durable in the wash.

Hand-stitch the binding (optional method)

Thread a needle with thread that matches the binding. Knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of the binding from underneath, so the knot hides inside the fold. Take a small stitch (about one-eighth inch) through the blanket fabric just below the binding fold, then bring the needle back up through the binding fold about a quarter inch away. Repeat all the way around the blanket.

At the corners, take two or three stitches in the mitered fold itself to find it, then continue along the next side. When you reach the starting point, bury the knot inside the binding fold and trim the thread.

Hand-stitching creates a seam that is nearly invisible from the front and gives the blanket a handmade feel. The trade-off is time and the fact that hand-stitched seams can loosen slightly over many washings if the thread is not secured well.

Machine-stitch the binding (faster method)

Use a walking foot on your machine if you have one—it feeds the top and bottom layers of fabric evenly and prevents puckering. Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters.

Stitch along the inner fold of the binding, about one-eighth inch from the fold. Sew slowly and keep the fold aligned with the presser foot. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the seams. At the corners, stop with the needle down, pivot the blanket, and continue sewing along the next side.

Machine-stitching is visible from the front, so use thread that matches the binding or the blanket. The seam is durable and will hold through many washings without loosening.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

Binding that puckers or waves: This usually means the binding was not pressed flat before sewing, or the blanket edge was not trimmed straight. Press the binding again with a hot iron, and trim any wavy edges from the blanket before you start.

Corners that bunch or fold unevenly: You may have folded the binding at the corner too early or too late. Practice the 45-degree fold on a scrap of fabric first. Stop sewing exactly a quarter inch before the corner point, fold the binding at 45 degrees, then fold it back down before you resume sewing.

Seams that skip stitches or break: Check that your needle is inserted correctly (flat side facing the right direction for your machine), that the needle is not bent or dull, and that your thread is wound evenly on the bobbin. Test on a scrap of blanket fabric before you sew the binding.

Binding that does not cover the machine stitching on the back: The binding may be too narrow, or you may have sewn with a seam allowance larger than a quarter inch. Measure the binding width and the seam allowance on a finished section. If the binding is too narrow, you can carefully unpick the back stitches and re-fold the binding wider, then re-stitch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use pre-made binding instead of cutting my own?

Yes. Pre-made binding is available at fabric stores in many colors and widths. It saves time because it is already pressed and ready to sew. The trade-off is that you have fewer color options and cannot match the blanket fabric exactly. Pre-made binding works well if you are binding a blanket with a contrasting color.

What thread should I use?

Use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread that matches the binding or the blanket, whichever is more visible in the finished blanket. If the binding and blanket are different colors, choose the color you see most from the front. Test the thread on a scrap first to make sure the color is right in daylight.

Do I have to miter the corners?

Mitering creates a neat diagonal fold at each corner, but it is not required. If you do not miter, the binding will bunch slightly at the corners and look less polished. For a first blanket, mitering is worth learning because it takes only a few extra seconds per corner and makes a big difference in the finished look.

How do I bind a blanket with curved edges?

Curved edges need binding that is slightly stretched as you sew, so the binding does not pucker. Sew slowly and use a walking foot if you have one. You do not need to miter curved edges—just fold the binding smoothly around the curve as you sew. Hand-stitching the back is easier on curves because you can adjust the binding as you go.

Will the binding shrink when I wash the blanket?

Binding shrinks at roughly the same rate as the blanket if you use the same fabric for both. Pre-made binding may shrink differently depending on the fiber content. Wash and dry the binding fabric (or a pre-made binding sample) before you sew if you are concerned about shrinkage, using the same water temperature and dryer setting you plan to use for the finished blanket.