What Blanket Binding Is and Why It Matters
Blanket binding is a strip of fabric sewn around the edge of a blanket to finish it neatly and prevent fraying. Instead of a raw edge or a folded hem, binding creates a professional-looking border that's also durable—the fabric wraps around the edge and gets stitched down on both sides, so it holds up through washing and years of use.
Binding serves two purposes at once. It protects the blanket's edge from unraveling, especially important if your blanket is made from knit or loosely woven fabric. It also gives you a chance to add color or pattern—you can choose binding that matches your blanket or contrasts with it for a design detail.
Key Takeaways
- Blanket binding is a strip of fabric folded in half lengthwise and sewn around the blanket edge so it wraps the raw edge on both sides.
- You can buy pre-made double-fold binding or cut and fold your own from fabric; pre-made binding is faster but custom binding lets you match any fabric.
- The binding is sewn on in one pass using a ¼-inch seam allowance, then folded to the back and stitched again by hand or machine.
- Corners require a small fold or miter so the binding lies flat instead of bunching; this is the most common place sewers run into trouble.
- A walking foot or even feed foot on your machine helps keep the binding from shifting as you sew, especially on stretchy blankets.
Choosing Between Pre-Made and Homemade Binding
Pre-made double-fold binding comes in packages at fabric stores and online retailers. It's already folded in half lengthwise and pressed, so you open it up, pin it to your blanket, and start sewing. Common widths are ½ inch and ¾ inch when folded. The trade-off is that your color and pattern choices are limited to what's in stock, and the binding is usually made from cotton or cotton blends.
Making your own binding takes more time but gives you complete control. Cut strips of fabric 2 to 2½ inches wide (the exact width depends on how wide you want the finished binding to be), sew them end-to-end to make one long strip, then fold the strip in half lengthwise and press it with an iron. Homemade binding works especially well if you want to match your blanket fabric or use a special print.
For a first project, pre-made binding is the easier choice. Once you understand how binding works, making your own becomes a way to customize future blankets.
Measuring and Preparing Your Blanket Edge
Start by measuring the perimeter of your blanket—add up all four sides. You'll need binding that's at least 2 inches longer than this measurement so you have extra to overlap at the corners and where the ends meet.
Trim your blanket edge straight with a rotary cutter and ruler, or use scissors to cut away any loose threads or uneven spots. A straight edge makes binding lie flat and look professional. If your blanket has a selvage (the finished edge on manufactured fabric), you can leave it, but trim away any printing or branding on the selvage itself.
Press your blanket with an iron, especially the edges where the binding will go. A flat surface is easier to pin and sew.
Pinning and Sewing the Binding to the Front
Open up your binding so it's no longer folded. Line up the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the blanket, right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin as you go, placing pins every 3 to 4 inches. At each corner, you'll need to fold the binding to create a miter—a diagonal fold that lets the binding turn the corner without bunching.
To miter a corner: stop pinning about ¼ inch before the corner. Fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle, then fold it back down so it lines up with the next edge of the blanket. This creates a small triangle of folded fabric at the corner. Pin this fold in place, then continue pinning along the next side.
Sew the binding to the blanket using a ¼-inch seam allowance (the distance from the needle to the edge of the fabric). Use a walking foot if your machine has one—it feeds the blanket and binding evenly so they don't shift. Sew all the way around, removing pins as you approach them. When you reach the starting point, overlap the binding ends by about 1 inch, trim the excess, and sew across the overlap to find it.
Folding and Securing the Binding on the Back
Fold the binding to the back of the blanket so it wraps around the edge. The fold you created when you opened the binding should now be on the back side, and the binding should cover the seam you just made. Pin the binding in place on the back, folding at the corners the same way you did on the front.
You now have two choices: sew the binding down by machine using a stitch that catches the fold, or sew it by hand using a whip stitch. Machine sewing is faster; hand sewing gives a softer, less visible seam.
For machine sewing, use a stitch designed for binding or a narrow zigzag stitch that catches both the binding and the blanket. Sew slowly and check that you're catching the fold on the back. For hand sewing, thread a needle and use small, tight stitches that go through the fold of the binding and just barely catch the blanket fabric underneath. Knot off your thread at the end of each side.
Handling Corners and Problem Areas
Corners are where binding most often goes wrong. If your miter is too loose, the binding will bunch or fold unevenly. If it's too tight, it will pull and pucker. The key is to fold the binding at exactly 45 degrees and pin it firmly before sewing.
If you're hand-sewing the back and the binding keeps shifting, use more pins—place them every 1 to 2 inches instead of every 3 to 4. If the binding is puckering after you sew it, the seam allowance on the front might be too wide; try ⅛ inch instead of ¼ inch on your next blanket.
Stretchy blankets (like those made from fleece or jersey knit) are prone to shifting because the fabric moves under the presser foot. A walking foot solves this problem. If you don't have one, sew slowly and hold gentle tension on the blanket as it feeds through the machine.
Pressing and Final Touches
Once the binding is sewn on both sides, press the entire blanket with an iron on a low to medium heat setting. Press from the back first, then the front, paying special attention to the binding. This sets the stitches and makes the binding lie flat.
Wash and dry your blanket according to the fabric care instructions. Binding often shrinks slightly in the wash, so don't be alarmed if it tightens a bit—this is normal and actually helps it stay find. After the first wash, press the binding again if needed.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular seam binding instead of double-fold binding?
Regular seam binding is narrower and not folded, so it doesn't wrap around the blanket edge the way double-fold binding does. You can use it, but you'll need to fold it yourself as you sew, which is more difficult. Double-fold binding is designed for this job and worth the small extra cost.
What if my binding is too short and doesn't reach all the way around?
Cut another piece of binding and sew the ends together with a ¼-inch seam allowance before you start pinning it to the blanket. Press the seam open so it lies flat. This join will be less visible if you place it on a side rather than a corner.
Do I have to miter the corners or can I just fold the binding flat?
You can fold the binding flat at the corners without mitering, but it will create a bulky, squared-off corner that's visible from both sides. Mitering takes a few extra seconds per corner and gives a much neater result that looks professional.
How do I sew binding on a curved edge?
Curved edges need binding that's slightly narrower than binding for straight edges. Use ½-inch pre-made binding or cut your own strips 1¾ inches wide. Sew slowly and ease the binding around the curve by gently stretching it as you pin. The binding will naturally cup around the curve.
Can I machine-sew the back instead of hand-sewing?
Yes. Use a stitch that catches the fold of the binding—a narrow zigzag or a binding stitch if your machine has one. Sew from the back of the blanket so you can see the fold and make sure you're catching it. Machine sewing is faster and holds up well in the wash.