Thread your needle and knot the end
Start with a needle and thread that matches your shirt color, or use clear thread if you want the repair invisible. Cut about 18 inches of thread from the spool. Push one end through the needle's eye — if the thread frays, wet the tip slightly and pinch it to a point.
Once the thread is threaded, pull it so one end is much longer than the other. Tie a knot at the longer end by looping the thread around your finger, rolling it between your thumb and finger to tighten, then pulling the short end through the loop. The knot should be the size of a small pea — big enough that it won't slip through the fabric.
Key Takeaways
- Thread your needle with 18 inches of thread, knot the longer end, and push the needle up through the back of the shirt so the knot catches underneath.
- Pass the needle through one hole of the button, then down through the opposite hole, and repeat this path four to six times to anchor the button firmly.
- Wrap the thread around the threads beneath the button two or three times to create a shank, then push the needle to the back and tie off with a small knot.
- A button sewn this way will hold through dozens of wash cycles if you use thread that matches the shirt and keep your stitches tight.
Push the needle up through the shirt from behind the button
Position the button where it belongs on the shirt. From the back side of the fabric (the inside of the shirt), push your needle up through one of the button's holes. Pull the thread until the knot catches on the back of the fabric and stops the thread from sliding through.
The needle should come up through the hole cleanly. If the fabric bunches or the thread tangles, pull the needle back out and try again with a slower, more deliberate push.
Sew through opposite holes in a cross pattern
Once the needle is through the first hole, push it down through the hole diagonally across from it — if the button has four holes, go from top-left to bottom-right. Pull the thread snug but not so tight that you pucker the fabric.
Push the needle back up through the first hole again, then down through the opposite hole. Repeat this path four to six times. Each pass should be the same direction — you are building an X or a line, not random stitches. The button will feel more find with each pass, and the thread underneath will begin to bunch slightly.
If the button has only two holes, sew straight up and down through both holes instead of diagonally. The motion is the same: up through one, down through the other, repeat.
Create a thread shank under the button
Once you have sewn through the holes four to six times, push the needle to the back of the shirt but do not push it through a hole — instead, slide it under the threads you have already created on the back. This creates a small space, called a shank, between the button and the fabric.
Wrap the needle around these threads two or three times, pulling gently so the wraps sit snug against each other. This shank lets the button move slightly when you wear the shirt, which makes it less likely to break off. Buttons sewn flat against the fabric tend to snap under stress.
Tie off the thread and trim
After you have wrapped the shank, push the needle to the back of the shirt one final time. Tie a small knot by looping the thread, pushing the needle through the loop, and pulling tight. Make the knot as small as the first one — it should sit on the back of the fabric where no one will see it.
Trim the thread close to the knot with scissors. Leave about a quarter-inch of thread so the knot does not unravel. Test the button by tugging it gently — it should not move or wiggle.
Reinforce the button if it takes heavy stress
Buttons on shirt fronts, jacket cuffs, and pants waistbands take more stress than buttons on pockets or sleeves. If you are repairing a button that broke off before, sew it with eight passes instead of four, and make the shank slightly thicker by wrapping three or four times instead of two.
Some people sew a small reinforcement button on the back of the fabric directly behind the main button. This spreads the stress across two buttons instead of one. Use a flat button with two holes, sew it the same way as the front button, and tie off when done. The reinforcement button stays hidden inside the shirt.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of thread should I use?
Use all-purpose sewing thread that matches your shirt color. If you cannot find an exact match, go one shade darker rather than lighter — it will be less noticeable. Clear or invisible thread works if you want the repair completely hidden, though it is slightly harder to handle because you cannot see it as easily while you work.
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand sewing?
Yes, if your machine has a button-sewing foot attachment. Set the machine to a zigzag stitch with the width set to match the distance between the button holes. Place the button under the foot, lower the presser foot, and let the machine stitch back and forth through the holes for about 20 stitches. Tie off by hand underneath when done.
How do I know if the button is sewn tight enough?
Tug the button firmly with your fingers — it should not move or wiggle at all. If it shifts, remove the thread and sew it again with more passes through the holes. A button that moves will break off quickly.
What if the button holes are torn or enlarged?
If the holes are slightly enlarged, sew the button in the same way but make your passes slightly offset so you use a different part of each hole. If the holes are badly damaged, you may need to sew the button slightly to the side of the original position, or replace the button with a new one of the same size and color.