The Basic Method: Casing and Drawstring

The easiest way to attach elastic to a skirt waist is to create a casing—a tunnel of fabric that the elastic slides through. You fold the fabric at the waistline down onto itself, stitch it closed, and thread the elastic through the opening. This method works on almost any skirt and requires only a needle, thread, and basic stitching.

Start by trying on the skirt and pinching the waist to find how much fabric you need to fold down. For most skirts, fold down between 1 and 1.5 inches. Mark this line with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk all the way around the waist. Fold the fabric down along this line, press it flat with an iron, and pin it in place.

Stitch the fold down using a straight stitch on a sewing machine, staying about 0.25 inches from the bottom edge of the fold. Leave a 2-inch opening so you can thread the elastic through later. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. The opening is your entry point—do not close it yet.

Key Takeaways

  • A casing is a fabric tunnel you create by folding the waistband down and stitching it, then threading elastic through the opening.
  • Measure your waist, subtract 2 inches, and cut elastic to that length so the skirt will pull on and sit snugly without gaps.
  • Use a safety pin or bodkin to thread the elastic through the casing—tie the pin to one end of the elastic so it does not slip back out.
  • Overlap the elastic ends by 0.5 inches, stitch them together in a square pattern, and then close the casing opening by hand or machine.

Measuring and Cutting the Elastic

The length of your elastic determines how tight the skirt will be. Measure your natural waist with a soft measuring tape, then subtract 2 inches. This gives you a snug fit that will stay up without cutting off circulation. If you prefer a looser fit, subtract only 1 inch instead.

Cut your elastic to this length using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Elastic frays slightly when cut, but this does not affect how it works. If you are using wide elastic (1.5 inches or more), you can cut it straight across. For narrow elastic (under 1 inch), a straight cut is fine, but some sewers prefer to angle the ends slightly so they overlap more smoothly.

Threading the Elastic Through the Casing

The hardest part of this job is getting the elastic through the casing without it bunching or twisting. A safety pin or bodkin (a flat metal tool made for this purpose) solves this problem. Tie or pin one end of the elastic to the safety pin, then push the pin through the casing opening. The pin acts as an anchor so the elastic does not slip back out.

Work slowly and push the pin a few inches at a time, smoothing the fabric as you go. When the pin reaches the opening again, you have threaded the elastic all the way around. Pull the elastic so it sits evenly in the casing—you should not see any bunching or twists from the outside.

Joining the Elastic Ends

Once the elastic is threaded, the two ends will be sticking out of the opening. Overlap them by 0.5 inches and pin them together. Stitch the overlap in a small square pattern: start at one corner, stitch across to the opposite corner, then stitch back along the other two sides. This square pattern is much stronger than a single line of stitching and prevents the elastic from tearing at the seam.

Use thread that matches your skirt or the elastic itself. A straight stitch on the machine works fine, or you can hand-stitch using a needle and thread if you prefer. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread. The stitched joint should be about 0.5 inches wide and very firm—tug on it to make sure it does not slip.

Closing the Casing Opening

After the elastic is joined, push it back into the casing so the seam is hidden inside. The 2-inch opening you left earlier is now your final step. You can close it by machine or by hand. For a machine finish, stitch along the opening using a straight stitch, backstitching at both ends. For a hand finish, use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch), which closes the opening so neatly that the seam is almost invisible from the outside.

To ladder stitch, thread a needle and knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, then cross over and bring it down through the fold on the other side. Slide the needle inside the fold for about 0.25 inches, then come back out and cross over again. Repeat this zigzag pattern all the way across the opening, pulling gently every few stitches so the fabric closes. Knot the thread inside the fold when you reach the end.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is cutting the elastic too long, which leaves the skirt loose and saggy. Remember to subtract 2 inches from your waist measurement, not add to it. If you have already sewn the elastic in and it is too loose, you can remove a few stitches from the overlap, trim 0.5 to 1 inch off the elastic, and re-stitch it. This takes 10 minutes and is much faster than starting over.

Another frequent problem is twisting the elastic as you thread it through the casing. Check the elastic every few inches as you push the safety pin through—if you see a twist, stop, pull the elastic back out a little, and straighten it before continuing. Twisted elastic will show as a ridge or bulge on the outside of the skirt.

Some sewers stitch the casing too close to the fold, which makes the opening too narrow for the elastic to fit through easily. Leave at least 0.5 inches of space between your stitch line and the fold. If the opening is too tight, you can carefully cut it wider with a seam ripper, but it is easier to get it right the first time.

Alternative: Sewing Elastic Directly to the Waistband

If your skirt already has a finished waistband and you do not want to create a casing, you can stitch elastic directly to the inside of the waistband. This method works best on skirts with a waistband that is at least 1 inch wide. Cut the elastic to the same length as before (your waist measurement minus 2 inches), then pin it to the inside of the waistband, stretching it slightly as you pin so it lies flat.

Stitch the elastic down using a zigzag stitch on the machine, which allows the elastic to stretch without the thread breaking. Stitch along both long edges of the elastic. This method is faster than a casing but shows on the inside of the skirt, so it works best if you do not mind seeing the elastic when you wear the skirt.

Frequently Asked Questions

What width of elastic should I use?

Wider elastic (1 to 1.5 inches) is more comfortable because it spreads the pressure across a larger area of your waist. Narrow elastic (0.5 to 0.75 inches) works fine but can dig in if the skirt is very tight. Match the width to the size of your casing—if you fold down 1 inch of fabric, use elastic that is 0.75 inches or narrower so it fits inside without bunching.

Can I use a drawstring instead of elastic?

Yes. Instead of threading elastic through the casing, thread a cord or ribbon through it. This gives you adjustable tightness—you tie the drawstring to fit your waist. Leave the casing opening larger (about 3 inches) so the drawstring knot can pass through, and tie the ends together or leave them loose to hang down the front.

What if the elastic keeps rolling or twisting inside the casing?

Stitch a vertical line down the middle of the casing from the outside, going through the elastic inside. This divides the casing into two channels and prevents the elastic from rolling. Use a thread color that matches the skirt so the stitching is not obvious. This extra step takes only a few minutes and solves the problem completely.

How do I fix elastic that is too tight?

Remove a few stitches from the overlap where the elastic ends are joined, pull the elastic out slightly, and add a small piece of elastic (0.5 to 1 inch) between the two ends before re-stitching. This lengthens the elastic without having to remove it from the casing. Alternatively, cut the overlap stitches, trim 0.25 to 0.5 inches off one end, and re-stitch.

Do I need a sewing machine for this project?

A machine makes the job much faster and the stitches stronger, but you can hand-stitch the entire casing if you prefer. Use a backstitch, which is the strongest hand stitch for seams. It takes longer—expect 30 to 45 minutes by hand instead of 15 to 20 minutes by machine—but the result is just as durable.