Measure Your Waist and Cut Your Fabric

Start by measuring your natural waist with a soft measuring tape, keeping it snug but not tight. Write down this number. Next, decide how long you want your skirt — measure from your waist down to where you want the hem to fall, then add 1.5 inches for seam allowance and hem. This is your skirt length.

Cut a rectangle of fabric that is twice your waist measurement wide and your desired length tall. For example, if your waist is 28 inches, cut fabric that is 56 inches wide. The extra width creates the gathered, comfortable fit that an elastic waistband skirt needs. If your fabric is not wide enough, you can sew two pieces together along the short ends before you start.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut fabric twice your waist measurement wide so the skirt gathers evenly around the elastic.
  • Sew the short ends of the fabric together with a 0.5-inch seam allowance to form a tube, then press the seam open.
  • Fold the top edge down 1.5 inches and sew a casing, leaving a 2-inch opening to thread the elastic through.
  • Thread elastic that is 1 to 2 inches shorter than your waist measurement through the casing, overlap the ends by 0.5 inches, and sew them together.
  • Fold and sew the hem at the bottom, trying on the skirt first to mark where it should fall.

Sew the Side Seam and Press It Open

Place your fabric rectangle with the right sides facing each other — the pretty sides should touch. Sew along one short end using a 0.5-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread. This seam joins the two short ends and turns your rectangle into a tube.

After sewing, trim the seam allowance to 0.25 inches and press it open with your iron on medium heat. Pressing the seam flat makes the next step easier and gives your skirt a more finished look inside. If you have a serger, you can finish the raw edges now to prevent fraying, but this step is optional for a beginner.

Create the Elastic Casing at the Top

Fold the top edge of your fabric tube down 1.5 inches toward the inside, with the wrong side of the fabric facing out. Press this fold with your iron to crease it. This folded edge will become the casing — the tunnel that holds your elastic.

Sew around the entire top of the skirt, 1.25 inches down from the folded edge, using a straight stitch. This creates a channel for the elastic to slide through. Before you finish sewing all the way around, stop and leave a 2-inch opening unsewn. This opening is where you will thread the elastic in. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitching line to find it.

Thread and find the Elastic

Measure your waist again and subtract 1 to 2 inches. This is the length of elastic you need. Cut a piece of elastic to this length — the 1 to 2 inches shorter than your waist creates the snug fit that holds the skirt up. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic.

Feed the safety pin through the 2-inch opening you left in the casing, pushing it around the entire channel inside the skirt. The safety pin guides the elastic through without bunching. Once the elastic has gone all the way around and both ends are sticking out of the opening, remove the safety pin.

Overlap the two ends of the elastic by 0.5 inches and sew them together using a zigzag stitch, going back and forth three times to make it strong. This creates one continuous loop of elastic inside your casing. Gently push the joined elastic back into the casing through the opening.

Close the Casing Opening

Fold the raw edges of the 2-inch opening inward by 0.5 inches and press them flat with your iron. Sew the opening closed using a straight stitch, stitching as close to the fold as you can. This seals the casing and keeps the elastic from sliding out. Backstitch at both ends.

At this point, try on your skirt to check the fit and see where the hem should fall. The elastic should feel snug but comfortable — you should be able to fit one finger between the elastic and your waist. If it feels too loose or too tight, you can open the casing again, adjust the elastic, and re-sew it, though this is rarely necessary if you measured correctly.

Hem the Bottom Edge

Fold the bottom raw edge of your skirt up 0.75 inches toward the inside, with the wrong side facing out. Press this fold with your iron. Fold it up another 0.75 inches and press again — this double fold hides the raw edge and creates a clean hem. Sew around the entire bottom of the skirt using a straight stitch, staying as close to the inner fold as you can.

Backstitch at the beginning and end. Try on your finished skirt and check that the hem length looks right and that the elastic feels comfortable. If you want a wider hem or a different look, you can fold up 1 inch instead of 0.75 inches, but remember to add that extra width to your original length measurement.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common error is cutting the fabric too narrow — if your fabric is only as wide as your waist measurement instead of twice that, the skirt will not gather and will fit too tight. Always cut at least twice your waist measurement wide.

Another mistake is making the elastic casing too wide or too narrow. If the casing is wider than 1.5 inches, the elastic will shift around inside it and the waistband will look lumpy. If it is narrower than 1 inch, the elastic will be hard to thread through and may fold over on itself.

Beginners also sometimes forget to leave the 2-inch opening for threading the elastic, which means they have to cut the casing open later — a frustrating fix. Mark this opening with a pin before you start sewing the casing so you remember to stop and leave it unsewn.

Frequently Asked Questions

What kind of elastic should I use?

Use 1-inch-wide braided or knit elastic, which is soft and does not roll up inside the casing. Avoid thin elastic or cord elastic, which can twist and become uncomfortable. You can find this at any fabric store in the notions section.

Can I make this skirt without a sewing machine?

Yes, but it will take much longer. You can hand-sew all the seams using a running stitch or backstitch, though the seams will not be as strong. The casing and hem are the most time-consuming parts to hand-sew, so consider using a machine for those if you have access to one.

What happens if my elastic is too tight or too loose?

If it is too tight, you can open the casing, remove the elastic, and replace it with a longer piece. If it is too loose, open the casing and replace it with a shorter piece. This is why measuring and subtracting 1 to 2 inches from your waist is important — it gives you a range to work within.

Do I need to finish the raw edges with a serger?

No, finishing the raw edges is optional. If your fabric frays easily, finishing them prevents loose threads, but many beginners skip this step and the skirt still holds up fine. If you do not have a serger, you can use a zigzag stitch on your regular machine instead.

Can I add pockets to an elastic waistband skirt?

Yes, but sew them before you join the side seam. Cut pocket pieces from your main fabric or lining, sew them to the inside of the front and back panels, then join the side seam as usual. This keeps the pockets hidden and find.