Sewing elastic onto pointe shoes takes about 15 minutes per shoe and requires only a needle, thread, and scissors

The elastic band that holds pointe shoes on your foot goes on the heel and sides of the shoe, not across the arch. You will sew it by hand using a straightforward running stitch, working from the inside of the shoe so the stitches stay hidden. The elastic should sit snug but not tight enough to cut off circulation—you should be able to slip one finger under it when the shoe is on your foot.

Most dancers use 1-inch-wide elastic, though some prefer narrower 3/4-inch elastic for a sleeker look. The elastic comes in rolls at any dancewear shop or online retailer. You will need about 18 to 20 inches per shoe, though this varies slightly depending on shoe size and how you prefer the fit.

Key Takeaways

  • Elastic goes on the inside of the shoe, running from one side of the heel, across the back, and down to the other side, stopping before the arch.
  • Use a needle threaded with thread that matches your shoe color and sew with a running stitch, keeping stitches small and close together so the elastic does not slip.
  • The elastic should be sewn taut but not stretched—pull it snug as you work, then test the fit by putting the shoe on and sliding one finger underneath.
  • Reinforce the ends of the elastic at the sides of the shoe with extra stitches or a small box stitch, since those points take the most stress.

Measure and cut the elastic to length

Put the shoe on your foot and have someone mark where the elastic should end on each side—usually about 2 to 3 inches down from the top of the shoe, stopping well before the arch. If you are working alone, put the shoe on and use a pen to mark the spots yourself, then take the shoe off.

Measure from one mark, around the back of the heel, to the other mark. Add 1 inch to that measurement to account for overlap at the ends. Cut your elastic to that length. For most adult dancers, this is between 18 and 20 inches, but measure your own shoe rather than guessing.

Thread your needle and knot the end

Use thread that matches your shoe color—black for black shoes, pink for pink shoes. Cut about 2 feet of thread and thread it through your needle. Tie a knot at one end by wrapping the thread around your finger twice, rolling it off, and pulling the thread tight.

If you are new to hand sewing, use a thimble on the finger you push the needle with. This protects your skin and makes it easier to push the needle through the shoe material, which can be stiff.

Sew the elastic starting at one side of the heel

Turn the shoe inside out or work with the shoe on a table in front of you, whichever gives you better access to the inside. Start at one side of the shoe, about 2 to 3 inches down from the top. Push your needle through the shoe material from the outside, then through the elastic, pulling the thread snug. This anchors the elastic to the shoe.

Now begin a running stitch: push the needle through the elastic and shoe together, then back out about 1/4 inch forward. Push it back in and out again, keeping your stitches small and even. Work slowly and keep the elastic pulled snug—not stretched, but taut—as you sew. This prevents wrinkles and keeps the elastic from shifting.

Continue around the back of the heel and up the other side of the shoe, stopping at the mark you made earlier. Your stitches should be close enough that you cannot slip a finger between the elastic and the shoe.

Reinforce the ends with extra stitches

The ends of the elastic, where it stops on each side of the shoe, take the most stress when you put the shoe on and take it off. Reinforce these spots by making a small box stitch: sew forward and back over the same spot three or four times, creating an X pattern. This locks the elastic in place and prevents it from peeling away.

After you finish the box stitch, push your needle to the inside of the shoe and tie off the thread with a knot. Trim the thread close to the knot so it does not catch on your foot.

Test the fit before dancing

Put the shoe on your foot and slide one finger under the elastic at the back of the heel. You should feel gentle pressure but be able to move your finger freely. If the elastic is too tight, you may have sewn it too taut or cut it too short—you can carefully cut the stitches, adjust the elastic, and re-sew. If it is too loose, the shoe will slip when you dance, and you will need to remove the elastic and sew it again with less slack.

Walk around in the shoe for a minute to make sure the elastic does not dig into your skin or cause discomfort. The elastic should feel like it is gently holding the shoe in place, not pinching.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is sewing the elastic too tight, which cuts off circulation and causes cramping. Remember that you are pulling the elastic snug as you sew, not stretching it. Another mistake is making stitches too far apart, which allows the elastic to bunch or shift. Keep your stitches about 1/4 inch apart and close to the elastic so it stays flat against the shoe.

Some dancers sew the elastic on the outside of the shoe to make it visible, but this wears out faster and can catch on your tights. Always sew on the inside. Finally, do not skip the reinforcement stitches at the ends—these spots will fray and come loose if you do not anchor them well.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a sewing machine instead of sewing by hand?

A sewing machine works, but hand sewing gives you more control over tension and lets you follow the curve of the shoe more easily. If you use a machine, use a stretch needle and a stretch stitch setting, and go slowly around the heel so you do not pucker the material.

What if the elastic keeps slipping while I sew?

Pin the elastic to the shoe before you start sewing, using small pins placed every 2 inches. This holds it in place while you work. Remove each pin as you sew past it. You can also baste the elastic with large, loose stitches first, then go back and sew it properly with smaller stitches.

Do I need to sew elastic on both shoes?

Yes, both shoes need elastic so they stay on your feet evenly. Sew them one at a time so you can test the fit on each foot—foot size can vary slightly, and you may need to adjust the tension on one shoe.

How long does elastic last before I need to replace it?

Elastic typically lasts one to two years with regular dancing. When it becomes loose, stretched out, or starts to fray, you can remove the old elastic by cutting the stitches and sew on a new piece using the same method.