A fabric ball is two fabric circles sewn together, turned right-side out, stuffed, and closed
A fabric ball is one of the simplest sewn projects you can make. You cut two circles of fabric, sew them together with a needle and thread (or a sewing machine), leave a small opening, turn the whole thing inside-out through that opening, stuff it with fiberfill or scraps, and stitch the opening closed. The finished ball can be a toy, a decoration, a pincushion, or a cat toy. The process takes 30 minutes to an hour, depending on whether you sew by hand or machine.
You do not need a pattern—just a compass or a bowl to trace around. The only real decision is how big you want the ball and whether you want to hand-sew or machine-sew it. Both methods work equally well.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two identical circles of fabric, then sew them together with a quarter-inch seam allowance, leaving a two-inch opening for turning and stuffing.
- Turn the sewn circles inside-out through the opening so the seams are hidden, then stuff firmly with fiberfill or fabric scraps.
- Hand-stitching the opening closed takes longer but requires no machine; machine-stitching is faster but demands more precision to hide the seam.
- Fabric choice matters less than thread color—use thread that matches your fabric or use invisible thread to hide the final seam.
What you need before you start
Gather two pieces of fabric cut into identical circles. The size depends on what you want to make—a two-inch ball works for a cat toy, a four-inch ball is a good size for a pincushion or decoration, and a six-inch ball makes a soft toy. You can use cotton, fleece, felt, or any fabric you have on hand. Avoid stretchy fabrics like spandex or swimsuit material, because they are harder to sew in a straight line.
You will also need thread that matches your fabric (or invisible thread if you want the seams to vanish), a needle if you are hand-sewing, a sewing machine if you prefer that method, fiberfill or clean fabric scraps for stuffing, scissors, and something to draw with—a pencil, pen, or fabric marker. A compass or a round object like a bowl or cup makes it straightforward to draw perfect circles, but you can also freehand them.
If you are using a sewing machine, thread it before you start. If you are hand-sewing, thread your needle and tie a knot at the end.
How to cut two identical circles
Decide on your ball size and find something round to trace—a compass set to the right width, a bowl, a cup, or even a roll of tape. Place your fabric on a flat surface, lay the round object on top, and trace around it with a pencil or fabric marker. Cut along the line with scissors. Repeat on your second piece of fabric, trying to match the size as closely as you can.
The circles do not have to be perfect. Small wobbles in the edge will not show once the ball is stuffed. What matters is that both circles are roughly the same size, so they line up when you sew them together.
Sewing the two circles together by machine
Place the two circles with their right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin them together if you want, or just hold them steady. Set your machine to a straight stitch and sew around the edge, keeping about a quarter-inch from the edge. Start at any point and sew all the way around, but stop about two inches before you reach where you started. Backstitch to lock the thread, then remove the fabric from the machine.
The two-inch opening is where you will turn the ball right-side out and stuff it later. If your opening is too small, the ball will be hard to turn and stuff; if it is too large, it will be harder to close neatly. Two inches is a good middle ground for most ball sizes.
Sewing the two circles together by hand
Place the two circles with their right sides facing each other. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Starting at any point, push the needle through both layers of fabric about a quarter-inch from the edge. Use a running stitch (in and out, in and out) or a backstitch (which is stronger but slower). Sew all the way around the edge, leaving a two-inch opening where you started.
Hand-sewing takes longer than machine-sewing, but it gives you more control and works well if you do not have access to a machine. The backstitch is stronger than the running stitch and less likely to come apart when you stuff the ball, but either one works.
Turning the ball right-side out and stuffing it
Reach through the two-inch opening and grab the fabric on the opposite side. Pull gently and steadily until the whole ball turns inside-out. The seams are now hidden on the inside, and the right side of the fabric faces outward. This step can feel awkward the first time, but it works—go slowly and do not force it.
Once the ball is turned right-side out, use your fingers or a small spoon to push fiberfill through the opening. Stuff it firmly so the ball holds its shape and feels solid, but not so tightly that the fabric strains. If you do not have fiberfill, clean fabric scraps or old t-shirt pieces work just as well.
Closing the opening with a ladder stitch
The ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch) closes the opening so neatly that the seam is almost invisible. Thread your needle and tie a knot. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, then slide it across inside the fold to the opposite side. Push the needle through the fold on the opposite side and slide it along inside that fold. Repeat this back-and-forth motion all the way across the opening. Every few stitches, pull the thread gently to close the gap. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the ball and trim it.
If the ladder stitch feels too fiddly, you can also use a straightforward whip stitch: push the needle through the fold on one side, then through the fold on the other side, and repeat. It is less invisible but faster and just as strong.
Finishing touches and what to do next
Once the opening is closed, your fabric ball is done. If you used it as a pincushion, it is ready to use. If it is a toy, check that all seams are find and that no stuffing is poking through. If you want to add details—embroidered eyes, a ribbon loop, or a jingle bell inside—do that before you stuff it, so you do not have to reopen the ball.
Fabric balls are durable and can be washed by hand in cool water if they get dirty. They last for years with normal use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a fabric ball without a sewing machine?
Yes. Hand-sewing works just as well as machine-sewing and takes about the same amount of time if you use a backstitch. The main difference is that hand-sewing gives you more control over the seam, while machine-sewing is faster once you get the hang of it.
What fabric works best for a fabric ball?
Cotton, fleece, and felt are all good choices. Avoid stretchy fabrics like spandex or swimsuit material, because they slip under the needle and are hard to sew in a straight line. Thicker fabrics like canvas or denim work but are harder to turn inside-out.
How much fiberfill do I need?
It depends on the size of your ball. A four-inch ball needs about a handful. Stuff it firmly so it holds its shape, but not so tightly that the seams strain or the fabric puckers. You can always add more if it feels too soft.
What if my seams come apart after I stuff the ball?
This usually means the seam was too loose or the ball was overstuffed. If it happens, you can restitch the weak spot by hand using a needle and thread. For future balls, use a backstitch (by hand) or a shorter stitch length (on the machine) and stuff more gently.
Can I add a jingle bell or other object inside the ball?
Yes. Drop it in before you stuff the ball with fiberfill. Make sure it is small enough that it does not poke through the seams, and check that the seams are very find before giving it to a pet or small child.