The Basic Stitch for Small Holes
A small hole in a shirt—the kind you might find under an arm or along a seam—closes fastest with a ladder stitch, also called a hidden stitch. This stitch pulls the fabric edges together from the inside, so the repair nearly disappears once you tie it off. The whole repair takes about five to ten minutes for a hole smaller than half an inch.
Thread a needle with thread that matches your shirt color. Knot the end. Push the needle through the folded edge of the hole from inside the shirt, so the knot stays hidden in the fabric. Bring the needle out about one-eighth inch along the edge. Cross to the opposite side of the hole and push the needle straight into the fabric across from where you came out, then slide it inside the fold of fabric for about one-quarter inch before bringing it back out. Return to the first side and repeat this back-and-forth motion, keeping your stitches small and even.
After every three or four stitches, gently pull the thread tight. You will feel the hole close as the fabric edges draw together. Once the hole is closed, make three small stitches in the same spot to anchor the thread, then push the needle between the fabric layers and out through the shirt about an inch away. Pull the thread tight and trim it close to the fabric—the end will disappear inside.
Key Takeaways
- Small holes under one-half inch close best with a ladder stitch, which hides the repair inside the fabric fold.
- Match your thread color to your shirt before you start, and use a needle size that fits comfortably through the weave without leaving large holes.
- Pull the thread gently every few stitches to close the hole gradually, rather than pulling hard at the end and risking a puckered repair.
- Larger holes or tears along seams need a patch or a whip stitch around the edges, not a ladder stitch.
- Practice on scrap fabric first if you have never sewn before—the motion becomes natural after a few tries.
Repairing Larger Holes and Tears
If the hole is larger than half an inch or the edges are ragged, a ladder stitch alone will not hold. You have two options: patch the hole or use a whip stitch around the edges to close them first, then reinforce with a patch on the underside.
For a whip stitch, trim any loose threads around the hole. Thread your needle and knot it. Starting at one corner of the hole, push the needle through the edge of the fabric from underneath, so the knot hides inside. Bring the needle over the edge and push it back through the fabric about one-eighth inch away, angling slightly forward. Repeat this motion all the way around the hole, keeping stitches small and even. The thread will wrap around the edge like a whip, pulling the torn fabric together. Once you reach the starting point, tie off inside the fabric as you did with the ladder stitch.
After the edges are closed, cut a patch from matching fabric—cotton, linen, or a similar weight works best. The patch should extend at least half an inch beyond the closed hole on all sides. Pin it to the underside of the shirt, centered over the repair. Thread your needle with matching thread and use a whip stitch around the entire edge of the patch, stitching through the patch and the shirt fabric. This reinforces the repair and prevents the hole from opening again.
Choosing the Right Thread and Needle
Thread color matters more than you might think. Hold several thread colors up to your shirt in natural light and pick the one that disappears into the fabric. If your shirt is a solid color, an exact match is easiest. If your shirt has a pattern, choose a thread that matches the dominant color or the color closest to where the hole is located.
Thread weight should match your shirt fabric. A lightweight cotton shirt needs thin thread—all-purpose thread works fine. A heavier fabric like denim or canvas can handle thicker thread. If you use thread that is too heavy for a delicate fabric, the stitches will pucker and be visible. If your thread is too thin for heavy fabric, it may break under stress.
Needle size follows the same rule. A size 70/10 or 80/12 needle works for most cotton shirts. Denim and canvas need a size 100/16 or 110/18. The needle should slide through the fabric without forcing, but not so loose that it bends or breaks. If you are not sure, start with a size 80/12—it handles most shirt fabrics.
Common Mistakes That Weaken the Repair
The most common mistake is pulling the thread too hard too soon. If you yank the thread tight before the hole is fully closed, the fabric will pucker around the repair and the stitch will be visible. Pull gently and evenly every few stitches instead. The hole should close gradually, not all at once.
Another mistake is using thread that is too long. A thread longer than about 18 inches will tangle and fray as you work. Cut a fresh length when the thread gets short, tie it off, and start again with a new needle and knot.
Skipping the knot at the start or end is a third common error. A loose thread will unravel the entire repair in the wash. Always knot the thread at the beginning and make three anchor stitches at the end before you trim.
Finally, do not skip the patch on larger repairs. A closed hole without reinforcement will tear open again the first time you wash or wear the shirt. The patch adds strength and keeps the repair from splitting.
Preparing Your Shirt Before You Sew
Before you thread the needle, inspect the hole closely. If there are loose threads or fraying edges, trim them with small scissors. Frayed fabric is harder to stitch and makes the repair look messy. Cut away only the loose threads, not the solid fabric around the hole.
Turn the shirt inside out if you are using a ladder stitch or whip stitch. This keeps the knots and thread ends hidden. If you are patching, you can work from either side, but the patch on the underside will be less visible if you work from the outside.
If the hole is in a seam, check whether the seam itself has split. If the seam is torn, you may need to re-sew the seam before closing the hole. Use a straight stitch along the original seam line, then close any remaining hole with a ladder stitch or patch.
Washing and Caring for Your Repair
Wait at least 24 hours after sewing before you wash the shirt. This gives the thread time to settle into the fabric. When you do wash, use cold water and a gentle cycle. Hot water and agitation can stress a fresh repair.
Turn the shirt inside out before washing. This protects the repair from friction against other clothes. Avoid the dryer for at least the first few washes—heat can weaken the thread. Hang the shirt to dry instead.
If you used a patch, check the edges after the first wash. If any edge is lifting, stitch it down again with a few extra stitches. A patch that stays flat will last through many more washes.
When to Use a Patch Instead of Stitching Alone
A patch is the right choice when the hole is larger than one inch, when the fabric is thin or delicate, or when the hole is in a high-stress area like under the arm or along a seam. A patch distributes the stress across a larger area, so it holds longer than stitching alone.
You can make a patch from matching fabric, or use an iron-on patch if you prefer not to sew. Iron-on patches are faster but less durable—they may peel away after several washes. A sewn patch lasts much longer and looks more professional once the stitching settles into the fabric.
If you do not have matching fabric, a contrasting patch can look intentional. Some people sew decorative patches as a design choice rather than hiding the repair. A small embroidered patch or a patch in a complementary color can turn a repair into a style detail.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if I do not have thread that matches my shirt exactly?
Choose the closest color you have. Thread that is one shade lighter or darker than the shirt will be less noticeable than thread that is a completely different color. If the hole is in a seam or under the arm where it will not be seen, an exact match matters less.
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand sewing?
A sewing machine works for larger holes and patches, but not for small holes under half an inch. A machine stitch is too bulky for a tiny repair. For larger holes, use a straight stitch around the edges to close them, then reinforce with a patch. Hand sewing gives you more control and a neater finish on small repairs.
How do I know if my repair will hold through the wash?
A repair holds if the stitches are small and even, the thread is knotted at both ends, and the hole is fully closed with no gaps. If you used a patch, the edges should be stitched all the way around. Gently tug on the repair—if it feels solid and does not move, it will hold.
What thread should I use if my shirt is a blend of cotton and polyester?
All-purpose polyester thread works on most blended fabrics. It is stronger than cotton thread and stretches slightly, which helps it move with the fabric. Match the thread color to the shirt the same way you would with cotton.
Can I repair a hole that is right on a seam?
Yes, but check the seam first. If the seam itself has split, re-sew it with a straight stitch before closing the hole. If only the fabric next to the seam is torn, use a ladder stitch or patch as you would for any other hole. A patch works especially well on seams because it reinforces the area where stress is highest.