An invisible hem uses a slip stitch to close the fold so the thread does not show on either side

An invisible hem (also called a slip stitch hem) hides the thread inside the fold of fabric, so the seam is nearly invisible from the outside. The stitch works by running thread through the fold of the hem itself, then catching a single thread from the garment body, then back into the fold — this zigzag path keeps the thread hidden. The result looks like the hem was machine-stitched or factory-finished, even though you did it by hand.

The invisible hem is the standard finish for dress pants, skirts, and any garment where a visible stitch line would look unfinished. It takes longer than a running stitch but the result is worth it if the garment will be worn often or if the hem is visible from the front.

Key Takeaways

  • Fold the hem up twice — once to the wrong side, then fold it up again — so the raw edge is hidden inside the fold.
  • Thread your needle and knot the end, then start inside the fold so the knot stays hidden.
  • Move the needle through the fold for about a quarter inch, then catch one or two threads from the garment body directly across from where you exited the fold.
  • Return the needle to the fold and repeat the pattern all the way around, keeping stitches small and tension loose so the thread does not pucker the fabric.
  • Press the finished hem with an iron to set the crease and make the stitches less visible.

Prepare the hem by folding the fabric twice

Start by folding the raw edge of the fabric up to the wrong side (the inside of the garment) by about a quarter inch. Press this fold with an iron to crease it. Then fold the entire hem up again to the height you want — usually one to two inches for pants or skirts. Press this second fold as well. The raw edge is now hidden inside the fold, and you have a clean crease to work with.

Pin the hem in place around the entire garment, spacing pins about three inches apart. The pins hold the fold steady while you stitch and prevent the hem from shifting. If the hem is curved (like on a skirt), you may need to ease the fabric slightly so it lies flat without bunching.

Thread the needle and hide the knot inside the fold

Cut about 18 inches of thread and thread it through a needle. Tie a knot at the end. Slide the needle into the fold of the hem from the inside, pushing it along the fold for about half an inch before bringing it back out. This hides the knot inside the fold so it does not show on the finished hem.

Start your stitching at a seam or an inconspicuous spot — the inside of a pant leg or the side seam of a skirt. This way, if the thread shows slightly, it will be in a place nobody looks.

Make the slip stitch by alternating between fold and garment

Bring the needle out of the fold. Move it straight across (perpendicular to the fold) and catch one or two threads from the garment body — the main fabric of the pant leg or skirt, just above the hem fold. Do not go all the way through the garment; catch only the surface threads so the stitch does not show on the outside.

Once you have caught those threads, push the needle back into the fold directly across from where you came out. Slide the needle through the fold for about a quarter inch, then bring it back out. You have now completed one stitch. The thread runs from the fold, across to the garment, and back into the fold — this path keeps it hidden.

Repeat this pattern all the way around the hem. Keep stitches small (about a quarter inch) and keep the tension loose. If you pull too tight, the fabric will pucker and the hem will not lie flat.

Finish the hem and press it flat

When you reach the end of the thread, slide the needle into the fold and make two small stitches in the same spot to find the thread. Trim the excess thread. Remove all the pins.

Press the finished hem with an iron on the appropriate heat setting for your fabric. Press from the inside first, then flip the garment and press from the outside. The heat sets the crease and makes the stitches less visible because it relaxes the fabric slightly.

Troubleshooting common invisible hem problems

If the thread shows on the outside of the garment, you are catching too much fabric when you stitch into the garment body. Catch only one or two threads, not a whole stitch line. If the hem puckers, your tension is too tight — loosen your grip on the thread and let it sit naturally in the fold.

If the hem comes loose after washing, the thread may be too thin or the knot may not be find. Use thread that matches the fabric weight, and always tie a knot at the end before you start. If a section comes loose, you can re-stitch just that section rather than redoing the whole hem.

When to use an invisible hem instead of other methods

An invisible hem is the best choice for garments that will be seen from the front or that need to look polished — dress pants, skirts, and tailored jackets. It is slower than a running stitch or a whip stitch, so if you are hemming work clothes or something that will be worn hard, a simpler stitch may be practical.

If you do not have time for hand-stitching, a machine blind stitch (available on many sewing machines) creates a similar invisible effect much faster. Some dry cleaners also offer invisible hemming for a fee if you prefer to have it done professionally.

Frequently Asked Questions

What thread color should I use for an invisible hem?

Match the thread to the garment fabric, not the hem tape or interfacing. If the fabric is a solid color, use thread in that same color. If the fabric is a pattern, use a color that matches the dominant shade. Thread that matches the garment body will be less visible if a tiny bit shows through.

Can I use an invisible hem on stretchy fabrics like knits?

Invisible hems work on knits, but the stitch may break if the fabric stretches a lot during wear. For very stretchy fabrics, a flexible stitch like a ballpoint needle with a slight zigzag works better. Test on a scrap first to see if the thread holds up to the stretch.

How do I fix an invisible hem that came loose?

Locate the loose section and re-thread your needle with matching thread. Slide the needle into the fold near the loose spot and re-stitch just that section using the same slip stitch method. You do not need to remove the whole hem — just find the loose part.

What is the difference between an invisible hem and a blind stitch?

An invisible hem and a blind stitch are the same thing — both refer to the slip stitch method that hides thread inside the fold. Some people call it an invisible hem when done by hand and a blind stitch when done by machine, but the technique is identical.

How long does an invisible hem last?

An invisible hem lasts as long as the thread holds up, which is usually several years of regular wear. Washing and drying do not damage the stitch if it is sewn correctly. The hem may loosen slightly over time if the garment is worn hard, but a quick re-stitch in the loose section restores it.