The basic approach: remove the inseam and hem the legs
To turn pants into a skirt, you unpick the inseam (the seam running up the inside of each leg), separate the two legs, and hem the raw edges where they meet. The result is a two-panel skirt made from the front and back of the original pants. This works best with pants that have a straight or slightly tapered leg, because wider legs create a wider skirt opening.
The process takes two to four hours depending on the pants weight and your sewing speed. You will need a seam ripper, thread that matches the pants, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. If the pants have a zipper or button fly, you will also need to decide whether to keep it as a front closure or remove it and add a side zip or elastic waistband instead.
Key Takeaways
- Use a seam ripper to carefully cut and pull out the inseam thread running up the inside of each leg, then separate the two legs completely.
- Try the skirt on inside-out to check the length and fit before hemming, because you cannot undo a cut hem.
- Straight-leg or slightly tapered pants work better than wide-leg styles, because the skirt opening will be narrower and easier to wear.
- If the pants have a zipper fly, you can keep it as a front opening or remove it and add a side zip or elastic waistband instead.
- Hemming by machine is faster and more durable than hand-sewing, but hand-sewing gives you more control over the stitch length and appearance.
Removing the inseam without damaging the fabric
Start by turning the pants inside-out so you can see the inseam clearly. The inseam is the seam that runs from the crotch down the inside of each leg to the ankle. Using a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade), slide the blade under the thread and cut it every half-inch or so along the entire seam. Work slowly and keep the blade angled away from the fabric itself—you are cutting thread, not cloth.
Once you have cut the thread all the way down one leg, gently pull the two fabric pieces apart. The loose thread should come away easily. Repeat on the second leg. If you find thread still holding the pieces together, use the seam ripper again rather than pulling hard, which can tear the fabric. After both legs are separated, use your fingers or tweezers to pick out any remaining thread bits from the fabric edges.
Checking the fit and length before hemming
Put the skirt on inside-out and have someone pin the two leg edges together at the side seams, or pin them yourself while standing in front of a mirror. This shows you the actual skirt shape and length. The opening should feel comfortable around your hips and thighs—if it is too tight, the skirt will not fit over your hips when you turn it right-side-out. If it is too loose, you may want to take in the side seams slightly.
Measure from your waist down to where you want the hem to fall, then mark that length with pins or tailor's chalk on both legs. Try sitting and moving around to make sure the length works for you. This is your final note to adjust before you cut and hem, because hemming is permanent.
Hemming the leg edges by machine or hand
Turn the skirt right-side-out. Fold the raw edge of one leg inward by half an inch, press it with an iron, then fold it inward again by half an inch and press. This creates a double-fold hem that hides the raw edge. Pin the fold in place every few inches.
If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch and sew close to the inner fold, removing pins as you go. Sew slowly and keep the line straight. If you are hand-sewing, use a slip stitch (a stitch that runs inside the fold and catches only a thread or two of the outer fabric, so it is nearly invisible from the outside). Repeat on the second leg.
Press the finished hems with an iron to flatten them and set the stitches. Try the skirt on right-side-out to check the length and make sure both hems are even.
Dealing with a zipper fly or button fly
If the pants have a zipper fly, you have two choices: keep it as a front opening, or remove it and add a different closure. To keep the zipper, you will need to decide where the skirt waistband sits. If you want it at the original waistline, the zipper becomes a front slit opening—you can leave it as-is or sew it closed and add a side zip instead. If you want to lower the waistband, you may need to remove the zipper to avoid bulk.
To remove a zipper, use a seam ripper to cut the thread holding it to the fabric on both sides, then pull it out. You will be left with two fabric edges where the zipper was. You can sew these edges together with a straight seam, or add a new side-zip closure by sewing a zipper into one of the side seams. Adding a side zip requires measuring the zip length, opening the side seam, and sewing the zip in place—this is more advanced and may be worth taking to a tailor if you have not done it before.
A button fly can be left as-is if you like the look, or you can sew the opening closed and add elastic to the waistband instead. To add elastic, measure your waist, subtract one inch, and cut that length of elastic. Fold the waistband down by half an inch, insert the elastic, and sew it in place by stitching through all layers.
Adjusting the waistband and fit
Once the legs are hemmed, try the skirt on and check the waist fit. If it is too loose, you can take in the side seams—try on the skirt inside-out, have someone pin the side seams to fit your body, then sew along the pins and try it on again to confirm. If it is too tight, you may need to let out the side seams, which only works if there is seam allowance (extra fabric) to release.
If the original waistband is uncomfortable or too loose, you can replace it with elastic. Cut the waistband seam with a seam ripper, remove the old waistband, measure your waist minus one inch, cut elastic to that length, and sew it into a loop. Fold the skirt waist down over the elastic and sew it in place, stretching the elastic as you go so the fabric gathers evenly.
Finishing touches and styling
Once the skirt is complete, try it on with the shoes and undergarments you plan to wear it with, because these affect how the length looks. If you want the hem to be perfectly even all the way around, have someone help you mark the length while you stand still, or use a hem gauge (a ruler-like tool that measures a consistent distance from the floor).
If the fabric is prone to fraying, you can finish the raw edges inside the hem with a zigzag stitch on the machine, or by hand with a whip stitch. This is optional but makes the skirt last longer. Press the finished skirt with an iron and wear it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I turn jeans into a skirt?
Yes, but jeans are stiff and heavy, so the skirt will be structured rather than flowing. The inseam is thick and may leave a visible ridge where the legs meet. Lighter-weight denim works better than raw denim. You may want to topstitch the seam where the legs meet for a finished look.
What if the pants legs are different widths?
If one leg is noticeably wider than the other, the skirt opening will be uneven. You can taper one or both legs by sewing a new seam line on the inside before you hem, or you can embrace the asymmetry as a design choice. Try it on inside-out first to see if it bothers you.
Do I need to remove the original waistband?
No, you can leave it if it fits and feels comfortable. If it is too tight, too loose, or uncomfortable, you can remove it with a seam ripper and replace it with elastic, or you can keep it and add elastic inside for extra comfort without removing anything.
How do I know if my pants are the right style to convert?
Straight-leg, slim, and slightly tapered pants work best because the skirt opening will be narrow enough to wear comfortably. Wide-leg, flared, or baggy pants create a very wide skirt opening that may be too loose. Try the pants on and imagine them as a skirt—if the leg width feels right for a skirt, the conversion will work.
Can I add a slit or make it shorter after hemming?
You can add a slit by carefully cutting the fabric and hemming the cut edges, but this requires precision. Making it shorter is possible—you unpick the hem, cut off the extra length, and re-hem—but each time you do this, you lose fabric. Plan your final length carefully before the first hem.