Sewing pockets into pants is a straightforward addition to your pattern

Pockets are sewn into pants before you attach the side seams, using a technique called pocket bags—two pieces of fabric that form the pocket pouch inside the pants leg. The opening of the pocket is reinforced with a facing or binding, then hidden when you sew the side seams closed. This method works for both front and back pockets and takes about 15 to 20 minutes per pocket once you understand the steps.

The key is to sew the pocket bag to the wrong side of the pants fabric first, then fold and press everything so the pocket opening is clean and the bag sits invisibly inside the finished seam. If your pattern includes pocket pieces, use those. If not, you can cut straightforward rectangular pocket bags from cotton lining or lightweight cotton fabric.

Key Takeaways

  • Pocket bags are two fabric pieces sewn to the wrong side of the pants leg before side seams are closed, creating an invisible pouch inside the finished pants.
  • Mark the pocket opening on your pattern pieces with a pencil or tailor's chalk before you begin sewing, so you know exactly where to stitch.
  • Sew the pocket bag to the pants fabric using a 5/8-inch seam allowance, then fold and press the opening so it lies flat and the bag sits inside the seam.
  • The pocket opening is reinforced with a facing strip or bias tape before the side seams are sewn, which prevents the opening from stretching or tearing.
  • Test your pocket placement on scrap fabric first if this is your first time, so you can see how the layers fold before you commit to your actual pants.

Gather your pattern pieces and mark the pocket opening

Start with your front pants pieces laid flat on a table, wrong side up. If your pattern includes pocket pieces, you will have two small rectangles labeled "pocket bag" or "pocket lining." If not, cut two rectangles from cotton lining about 6 inches wide and 8 inches tall for each pocket. You will need four pieces total for two front pockets (two bags per pocket).

Using a pencil or tailor's chalk, mark the pocket opening on the wrong side of the front pants piece. Your pattern will show you where—usually a rectangle about 5 inches wide and 1 inch tall, positioned on the hip area. Mark the corners clearly so you can see them when you sew. If your pattern does not show pocket placement, a good rule is to position the opening about 3 to 4 inches down from the waistband and about 2 inches in from the side seam.

Sew the pocket bag to the pants fabric

Place one pocket bag piece on the wrong side of the front pants piece, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other. Line up one long edge of the pocket bag with the top edge of your marked pocket opening. Pin it in place, then sew along that edge using a 5/8-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the beginning and end.

Flip the pocket bag down and press it flat with an iron. Now place the second pocket bag piece on top of the first one, right sides together, and align its long edge with the bottom edge of your marked pocket opening. Sew this seam the same way—5/8-inch allowance, straight stitch, backstitches at the ends. You now have both pocket bags attached to the pants, one above and one below the pocket opening.

Press both pocket bags down flat. Fold them toward the center so they meet in the middle of the pocket opening, and press again. The opening itself should now be a clean rectangle with the pocket bags folded underneath on the wrong side of the fabric.

Reinforce the pocket opening with facing or bias tape

The pocket opening needs reinforcement so it does not stretch or tear when you reach into the pocket. Cut a strip of cotton fabric (or use purchased bias tape) about 1 inch wide and 6 inches long. This is called a pocket facing. Place it on the right side of the pants, centered over the pocket opening, with right sides together.

Sew the facing to the pants using a 1/4-inch seam allowance, stitching along both long edges of the facing. Backstitch at the beginning and end. Flip the facing to the wrong side and press it flat. The facing now sits on the inside of the pants, reinforcing the pocket opening and preventing it from stretching.

Some sewers skip the facing and instead use a zigzag stitch around the pocket opening on the wrong side, which also prevents fraying. Either method works—the facing is more durable for pants that will get heavy use.

Connect the pocket bags and finish the seams

Now that both pocket bags are attached and the opening is reinforced, you need to sew the two pocket bags together so they form one continuous pouch. Fold the pants leg so the wrong side is facing you and the pocket bags are visible. Pin the two pocket bags together along their outer edges—the edges that are not already sewn to the pants.

Sew around three sides of the pocket bag using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, leaving the top edge (the edge closest to the waistband) open. This keeps the pocket bag from shifting when you wear the pants. Backstitch at the corners so the seams are strong.

Trim the seam allowance on the pocket bag to 1/4 inch using pinking shears or scissors, which reduces bulk inside the pants. Press the pocket bags flat one more time.

Sew the side seams and test the pockets

Once both pockets are complete, you can sew the side seams of the pants as your pattern directs. The pocket opening will be hidden inside the side seam, and the pocket bags will sit invisibly inside the finished pants leg. Sew slowly around the pocket area so you do not accidentally catch the pocket bag in the side seam.

After you have sewn the side seams, turn the pants right side out and reach into the pocket opening. You should feel the pocket bag inside and be able to put your hand in comfortably. If the pocket feels bunched or the opening is tight, you may have sewn the facing too close to the opening—this is a common mistake on the first try. The opening should feel smooth and the bag should move freely inside.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most frequent error is sewing the pocket bags to the right side of the pants instead of the wrong side. Always check that you are working on the side of the fabric that will be hidden inside the finished pants. A second mistake is making the pocket opening too small—if it is less than 4 inches wide, your hand will not fit comfortably. Aim for 5 to 6 inches wide and 1 to 1.5 inches tall.

Another common problem is forgetting to reinforce the opening before sewing the side seams. If you skip the facing or bias tape, the opening will stretch and fray after a few washes. Always add reinforcement, even if it feels like an extra step. Finally, do not sew the pocket bags too close to the pocket opening—leave at least 1/4 inch of space between the opening and the edge of the bag so the opening stays crisp and does not pucker.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I add pockets to pants that are already sewn?

Yes, but it is more difficult. You would need to carefully cut open the side seam, insert the pocket bag, and resew the seam. It is easier to add pockets before you sew the side seams, which is why most patterns include them from the start. If your pants are already finished, a tailor can add pockets, but it will cost more than sewing them yourself during construction.

What fabric should I use for pocket bags?

Cotton lining, cotton broadcloth, or lightweight cotton twill all work well. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits or spandex, which will make the pocket opening sag. If your pants are made from a heavy fabric like denim, use a sturdy cotton for the pocket bags so they do not tear under weight. Matching the pocket bag fabric to your pants fabric is not necessary—it will be hidden inside anyway.

How deep should the pocket bag be?

A pocket bag that is 7 to 8 inches tall is comfortable for most people. If you make it shorter than 6 inches, coins or keys may fall out the bottom. If you make it much longer than 8 inches, it will bunch up inside the pants leg and feel bulky. Test the depth on scrap fabric first if you are unsure.

Do I need to use bias tape for the facing, or can I cut my own?

You can cut your own facing from any cotton fabric. Bias tape is convenient because it is pre-folded and pre-packaged, but a straightforward strip of fabric sewn on the same way works just as well. If you cut your own, cut it on the straight grain (parallel to the selvage) rather than the bias, which makes it easier to handle and less likely to stretch.

What if my pattern does not show where to put the pockets?

Position front pockets about 3 to 4 inches down from the waistband and 2 inches in from the side seam. This placement is comfortable for most body shapes and keeps the pocket opening away from the side seam, where it might catch when you sew. For back pockets, center them on the back pants piece, about 4 to 5 inches down from the waistband. Mark the placement with a ruler and pencil before you start sewing.