Sewing a Pillow Cover Takes Two Fabric Pieces and Four Seams

A pillow cover is straightforward two rectangles of fabric sewn together on three sides, then turned right-side-out and stuffed. You sew the fourth side closed by hand or machine. The whole project takes 30 to 45 minutes once you have your fabric cut and your pillow form or stuffing ready. You do not need a pattern—just two pieces of fabric the same size, thread that matches or complements your fabric, and a sewing machine or needle and thread.

The basic method works for any pillow size: a 12-by-12-inch throw pillow, a 16-by-16-inch floor cushion, or a 20-by-20-inch decorative pillow. The steps stay the same. The only real decision is whether to close the fourth side with a machine seam (faster, stronger) or a hand stitch (invisible, takes longer).

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric pieces exactly the same size, adding half an inch on all sides for seam allowance.
  • Pin the two pieces with right sides facing each other, then sew three sides using a straight stitch and a half-inch seam allowance.
  • Turn the cover right-side-out through the opening, push the corners out with a chopstick or pencil, and press flat with an iron.
  • Stuff the cover with a pillow form or fiberfill, then close the opening with a ladder stitch by hand or a straight seam on the machine.
  • A half-inch seam allowance is standard; if you use a different width, your finished pillow will be smaller than your form.

Measure and Cut Your Fabric

Decide what size pillow you want. If you are using a pillow form (a pre-made insert you can buy at a fabric store), measure its width and length. If you are stuffing with fiberfill, decide on a finished size—12 by 12 inches is a good starting point.

Add one inch to both the width and length. This extra inch accounts for a half-inch seam allowance on all four sides. So a 12-by-12-inch pillow form needs two fabric pieces cut to 13 by 13 inches. A 16-by-20-inch form needs pieces cut to 17 by 21 inches. Use a ruler or measuring tape and mark your cutting lines with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil. Cut both pieces as straight as you can—uneven edges make the finished pillow look crooked.

Pin and Sew Three Sides

Lay one fabric piece flat on your work surface with the right side (the pretty side) facing up. Place the second piece on top of it, right side down, so the two right sides are facing each other and the wrong sides (the dull or back sides) face out. This is called right sides together. Line up all four corners and edges.

Insert pins along all four edges, spacing them about 2 inches apart. Pins hold the layers from shifting while you sew. Leave one side completely unpinned—this is your opening for turning and stuffing. A 4-to-6-inch opening is enough; you do not need to leave an entire side open.

Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric or blends with it. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 (a medium length). Sew along three sides, starting at one corner and stopping at the corner where your opening begins. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Keep the edge of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric so your seam stays a consistent half inch from the edge. Sew slowly and remove pins as you approach them—do not sew over pins.

Turn the Cover Right-Side-Out and Press

Trim the corners diagonally, cutting about a quarter inch from each corner point. This removes bulk so the corners lie flat and sharp when you turn the cover. Do not cut into the seam itself.

Reach into the opening and grab the fabric from inside. Pull gently and steadily until the entire cover flips right-side-out. The seams are now on the inside where they belong, and the pretty fabric faces outward. Push your fingers or a chopstick into each corner and gently work the point outward so the corners are crisp and square, not rounded.

Lay the cover flat on an ironing board and press it with a warm iron set to the heat level your fabric requires. Press the seams flat, especially along the three sewn sides. Press the edges of the opening flat as well—this makes the final seam neater. Let the fabric cool before you move it.

Stuff the Pillow and Close the Opening

Insert your pillow form or fiberfill through the opening. If you are using a form, slide it in corner-first. If you are using loose fiberfill, add it gradually and feel the cover as you go—stop when it feels full but not so tight that the seams strain. A pillow that is slightly underfilled looks softer and more natural than one that is rock-hard.

Once the pillow is stuffed, you have two ways to close the opening. The ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch) is invisible and gives a professional finish. Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric. Knot the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, then across to the opposite side and down through that fold. Slide the needle inside the fold about half an inch, then back out and across to the first side. Repeat this back-and-forth motion along the entire opening. Every few stitches, pull the thread gently to close the gap. When you reach the end, knot the thread inside the fold and trim it.

Alternatively, you can close the opening on the sewing machine. Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and press them flat. Pin the opening closed. Sew along the edge with a straight stitch, staying as close to the fold as you can. This seam will be visible on the outside, so use thread that matches your fabric or choose a contrasting color if that fits your design.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is cutting fabric pieces that are different sizes. Measure twice and cut once. If one piece is even a quarter inch smaller, the cover will bunch or pucker when you sew it. Lay both pieces on top of each other after cutting and check that all edges line up.

Another frequent problem is sewing with the wrong sides together (wrong sides facing each other instead of right sides). This puts your seams on the outside of the finished pillow. If this happens, turn the cover inside-out again, trim the corners, and turn it right-side-out the correct way.

Uneven seam allowance causes the pillow to come out lopsided. Watch the edge of your presser foot and keep it aligned with the fabric edge throughout the seam. If you drift wider or narrower, your finished pillow will be smaller or larger than planned.

Forgetting to backstitch at the start and end of seams means your thread can unravel. Always backstitch three or four stitches at the beginning and end of each seam.

Choosing Fabric and Thread

Cotton quilting fabric, linen, and cotton blends are easiest for beginners. They hold a crease, sew smoothly, and wear well. Avoid very stretchy fabrics like knits or very slippery fabrics like satin until you have made a few pillows—they shift under the presser foot and are harder to control.

Thread color matters less than you might think. Neutral thread (white, cream, gray, or black depending on your fabric) blends into most seams. If you want the seams to disappear, match the thread to your fabric. If you want the seams to show as a design detail, choose a contrasting color. Buy all-purpose polyester thread—it works on any fabric and is inexpensive.

Pillow forms come in standard sizes at fabric stores: 12 by 12, 14 by 14, 16 by 16, 18 by 18, and 20 by 20 inches are common. Measure your form before you cut fabric. If you cannot find the exact size you want, the next size up is safer than the next size down—a slightly loose cover looks better than one that is too tight.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if I do not have a sewing machine?

You can sew the entire pillow by hand using a needle and thread. Use a running stitch (in and out, in and out) for the three main seams, and a ladder stitch for closing the opening. It takes longer—about two hours instead of 45 minutes—but the result is the same. Hand-sewn seams are just as strong if you keep your stitches small and even.

Can I use fabric scraps or old clothing?

Yes. Old cotton shirts, sheets, and quilting scraps all work. Wash and dry them first to prevent shrinking later. If your scraps are small, you can sew them together into larger pieces before making the pillow cover. Patchwork pillows are a good way to use up leftover fabric.

How do I make the corners look sharp?

Trim the corners diagonally before turning the cover right-side-out, and use a chopstick or blunt tool to push the point outward from inside. Press the corners flat with an iron. If corners still look rounded, you may have left too much fabric in the seam allowance—trim a bit more next time.

What stitch length should I use?

A stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 is standard for pillow covers. Shorter stitches (1.5 to 2.0) create a stronger seam but can pucker lightweight fabric. Longer stitches (3.5 and up) are faster but weaker. Start with 2.5 and adjust if the fabric puckers or the seam looks loose.

Do I need to finish the raw edges inside the pillow?

No. The raw edges inside a pillow are hidden and do not fray significantly because they are enclosed. Finishing them (with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears) is optional and adds time. Most home sewers skip this step for throw pillows.