How to Sew a Zipper Into a Lined Bag

The Basic Method: Zipper Between Lining and Exterior

The most common way to install a zipper in a lined bag is to sandwich it between the outer fabric and the lining before you sew the bag closed. The zipper sits face-down against the exterior fabric, the lining sits face-down on top of it, and you sew all three layers together in one seam. When you turn the bag right-side out, the zipper is hidden inside the seam and the lining covers the zipper tape on the inside.

This method works because you are sewing the zipper in place before the bag takes its final shape. The zipper does not have to be inserted into an already-closed bag, and the lining naturally hides the raw edges of the zipper tape. The seam that holds the zipper also holds the lining to the exterior fabric, so you are not adding extra steps.

The key is to position the zipper correctly before you sew. The zipper pull should face the exterior fabric (so it faces outward when the bag is finished), and the zipper teeth should sit right at the edge where the exterior and lining will meet. If the zipper is too far inward or outward, it will either be hard to reach or will poke out of the seam.

Key Takeaways

Place the zipper face-down on the exterior fabric with the teeth aligned to the seam line, then lay the lining face-down on top of it and sew through all three layers in one pass.
Use a zipper foot on your machine so the needle can stitch close to the zipper teeth without hitting the metal or plastic.
Sew both long sides of the zipper before you close the bag, and leave the zipper partially open when you sew the final seam so you can turn the bag right-side out.
Test the zipper movement before you finish the bag; if it catches or sticks, you may have sewn too close to the teeth or twisted the tape.

Preparing the Fabric Pieces and Zipper

Cut your exterior fabric and lining fabric to the same size. Most bags have two exterior pieces (front and back) and two lining pieces. The zipper will run along the top edge of the bag, so the top edge of each piece is where the zipper will attach.

Measure the width of your bag opening and cut a zipper that is at least 1 inch longer than that width. A 12-inch bag opening needs at least a 13-inch zipper. The extra length gives you room to fold back the zipper tape at the ends so it does not stick out past the seam allowance.

Fold the zipper tape at each end inward by about half an inch and press it flat with your fingers or an iron. This keeps the raw edge of the tape from showing and prevents it from fraying. You can also trim the excess zipper tape after you sew, but folding it first is cleaner and faster.

Positioning the Zipper and Lining

Lay one exterior fabric piece flat on your work surface with the right side (the finished side) facing up. Place the zipper on top of it with the zipper pull facing up and the teeth pointing toward the center of the fabric. The bottom edge of the zipper tape should align with the top edge of the fabric piece.

Now lay the matching lining piece on top of the zipper with the right side facing down (so the right side of the lining faces the right side of the exterior). The lining should cover the zipper completely. Pin all three layers together along the top edge, pinning through the exterior, zipper tape, and lining. Space the pins about 2 inches apart.

Check that the zipper teeth are aligned with the seam line and that the zipper is not twisted. If the zipper is twisted, the lining and exterior will not line up when you turn the bag right-side out, and the zipper will sit crooked in the finished seam.

Sewing the Zipper in Place

Install a zipper foot on your sewing machine. A zipper foot is narrower than a standard presser foot and allows the needle to stitch very close to the zipper teeth without hitting the metal or plastic. Most machines come with a zipper foot, and it usually slides onto the presser bar in place of the regular foot.

Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Stitch along the top edge of the fabric, sewing through the exterior, zipper tape, and lining in one seam. Start at one end of the zipper and sew to the other end. Sew about one-quarter inch away from the zipper teeth — close enough that the seam holds the zipper firmly, but far enough that the needle does not hit the teeth or the zipper pull.

When you reach the zipper pull, stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, and slide the zipper pull down and away from the needle. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing to the end. This prevents the zipper pull from getting in the way or getting damaged by the needle.

Repeat this process on the other exterior piece with its matching lining piece and the other side of the zipper. After you sew both sides, the zipper will be sandwiched between the exterior and lining on both edges of the bag opening.

Closing the Bag and Turning It Right-Side Out

After both sides of the zipper are sewn, you have four fabric pieces pinned or sewn together: two exterior pieces and two lining pieces, with the zipper running between them. Now you need to sew the sides and bottom of the bag to close it.

Before you sew, open the zipper halfway. This is important: if the zipper is closed all the way, you will not be able to turn the bag right-side out after you sew the final seam. The zipper opening is your only way to flip the bag from inside-out to right-side out.

Sew the two exterior pieces together along the sides and bottom, using a half-inch seam allowance. Sew the two lining pieces together the same way, but leave a 4-inch opening in the bottom seam of the lining. This opening is where you will turn the bag right-side out.

Trim the corners of the seam allowance at a 45-degree angle, cutting close to the stitching but not into it. This reduces bulk and helps the corners lie flat when you turn the bag right-side out.

Turning and Finishing

Reach through the opening in the lining and grab the exterior of the bag. Pull the exterior through the opening, turning the bag right-side out. The zipper will now be hidden inside the seam, and the lining will cover the zipper tape on the inside.

Use a point turner or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out from the inside so they are sharp and square. Press the bag flat with an iron, paying special attention to the top edge where the zipper is sewn.

Sew the opening in the lining closed by hand using a ladder stitch, or machine-stitch it closed with a straight stitch. If you machine-stitch, use a thread color that matches the lining so the stitches are less visible. After the lining is closed, the bag is finished.

Troubleshooting Zipper Problems

If the zipper is hard to move or catches when you slide it, you may have sewn too close to the teeth. The thread can catch on the zipper and make it stick. Try gently working the zipper back and forth to loosen it. If it does not improve, you may need to remove the stitches near the teeth and re-sew them a little farther away.

If the zipper is crooked or twisted in the seam, the exterior and lining did not line up when you pinned them. This usually means the zipper was twisted before you sewed. If you catch this before you sew the sides and bottom, you can carefully remove the stitches, reposition the zipper, and sew again.

If the zipper pull is hard to reach or sticks out past the edge of the bag, the zipper may be too long or positioned too far to one side. For future bags, use a shorter zipper or position it more carefully before you sew. If the bag is already finished, you can trim the excess zipper tape with scissors or a seam ripper, but be careful not to cut the stitches.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use this method with a metal zipper or only plastic?

This method works with both metal and plastic zippers. Metal zippers are more durable and look more finished, but they are heavier and more expensive. Plastic zippers are lighter and cheaper, and they work just as well for most bags. Either type can be sewn using the sandwich method.

What if my zipper is shorter than the bag opening?

The zipper should be at least as long as the opening, or the bag will not close completely. If your zipper is too short, you can buy a longer one and start over, or you can make the bag opening smaller by moving the seam inward. Moving the seam inward is faster but changes the size and shape of the bag.

Do I have to leave the zipper partially open when I sew the sides?

Yes. If the zipper is closed all the way, you cannot turn the bag right-side out through the lining opening. The zipper opening is your only exit point. Open it at least halfway before you sew the final seams.

Can I sew the zipper on the outside of the bag instead of hiding it?

Yes, but it requires a different method. You would sew the zipper to the exterior fabric first, then fold the lining over it and sew the lining down separately. This exposes the zipper tape on the inside, so you may want to cover it with bias tape or a fabric strip for a neater look.

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