The Basic Steps for Installing a Zipper in a Pillow Cover
A zipper in a pillow cover goes on the back seam, between the two fabric pieces, before you sew the cover closed. You position the zipper face-down against one piece of fabric, sew it down with a zipper foot (a special presser foot that lets the needle run close to the zipper teeth), then fold the second fabric piece on top and sew the whole seam shut. The zipper ends up sandwiched inside the seam, hidden from view, and you can unzip the cover to remove the pillow insert for washing.
The process takes about 20 to 30 minutes once you have your materials ready. You do not need advanced sewing skills—the hardest part is keeping the fabric straight as you feed it under the presser foot. Most mistakes happen because the zipper is sewn too far from the teeth (leaving a gap) or the fabric shifts while sewing. Both are straightforward to prevent if you pin carefully and sew slowly.
Key Takeaways
- A zipper foot is essential because it lets the needle sew closer to the zipper teeth than a standard presser foot can reach.
- Pin the zipper to the fabric before sewing so it does not shift, and use a 1/4-inch seam allowance to keep the stitches close to the teeth.
- The zipper goes face-down on the first fabric piece, then the second piece is sewn on top of it, trapping the zipper inside the seam.
- Test the zipper before you sew the remaining three sides of the cover closed, so you can fix any problems while the cover is still open.
What You Need Before You Start
Gather a zipper (usually 16 to 20 inches for a standard pillow cover), two fabric pieces cut to the same size, a zipper foot for your machine, thread that matches your fabric, pins, scissors, and a measuring tape. The zipper length should be about 2 inches shorter than the side of the pillow where you plan to install it—a 16-inch zipper works for a 18-inch pillow cover, for example.
If you do not have a zipper foot, you can buy one at any fabric store or online for $5 to $15. It attaches to your sewing machine the same way your regular presser foot does—you unscrew the old foot, slide the new one on, and tighten the screw. Check your machine's manual if you are unsure how to swap feet, but the process is the same on nearly all machines.
Preparing the Fabric and Positioning the Zipper
Cut your two fabric pieces to the finished size you want plus 1/2 inch on all sides for seam allowance. If you want an 18-inch pillow cover, cut each piece 19 inches square. Press both pieces with an iron to remove wrinkles, then lay one piece flat on your work surface with the right side (the side you want to show) facing up.
Open the zipper fully. Place it face-down on the fabric piece so the zipper tape (the flat fabric strip on either side of the teeth) runs along one edge of your fabric. The zipper teeth should point toward the center of the fabric, not toward the edge. Pin the zipper in place every 2 to 3 inches, making sure the tape lies flat and does not bunch. The zipper should be centered along that edge—if the edge is 19 inches long, the zipper should start about 1.5 inches from one corner and end about 1.5 inches from the other.
Sewing the Zipper to the First Fabric Piece
Attach the zipper foot to your machine and thread it with thread that matches your fabric. Set your stitch length to 2.5 to 3 millimeters—a standard length for most machines. Position the fabric under the presser foot so the needle will sew along the edge of the zipper tape, about 1/4 inch away from the teeth.
Sew slowly and steadily from one end of the zipper to the other. Stop every few inches and lift the presser foot to check that the fabric is not shifting and the stitches are running parallel to the zipper teeth. If the fabric has drifted, stop, lower the presser foot, and adjust. Once you reach the end, backstitch a few stitches to lock the thread, then remove the fabric from the machine.
Flip the fabric over so the zipper is now face-up on the back. The zipper tape should be visible and the stitches you just made should run along the edge of the tape. If the stitches are crooked or too far from the teeth, you can remove them with a seam ripper and try again—do not worry about small imperfections, as they will be hidden inside the seam.
Attaching the Second Fabric Piece
Take your second fabric piece and place it face-down on top of the zipper, so the right sides of both fabric pieces are now facing each other and the zipper is sandwiched between them. The edges should line up evenly. Pin around all four sides to hold everything in place, then sew along the same edge where the zipper is attached, using the same 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Sew slowly and use the zipper foot again so you can sew close to the teeth without hitting them. When you reach the zipper pull (the metal or plastic slider), stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, slide the zipper pull away from the presser foot, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This prevents the presser foot from hitting the pull and breaking it.
Once you finish sewing that seam, open the zipper to test it. Unzip it fully and check that it moves smoothly and does not catch. If it works, you are ready to sew the remaining three sides of the cover closed. If it catches or feels stiff, you may have sewn too close to the teeth—you can try opening and closing it a few more times to see if it loosens, or remove the stitches and resew with a slightly larger seam allowance.
Finishing the Pillow Cover
With the zipper tested and working, sew the remaining three sides of the cover. You can sew all three sides in one continuous seam or sew each side separately—either way works. Use a 1/2-inch seam allowance (the standard for most sewing projects) and backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread.
When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp corner instead of a rounded one. Once all four sides are sewn, trim the corners diagonally about 1/4 inch from the stitches—this reduces bulk when you turn the cover right-side out and makes the corners lie flat.
Turn the cover right-side out through the open zipper, pushing the corners out gently with a blunt tool like a chopstick or the back of a wooden spoon. Press the cover with an iron to smooth the seams, then insert your pillow form and zip it closed.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
If the zipper is too stiff or hard to move, you may have sewn too close to the teeth and the fabric is pressing against them. Try opening and closing the zipper several times—sometimes it loosens with use. If it does not, you can remove the stitches on one side of the zipper with a seam ripper and resew with a slightly larger seam allowance (3/8 inch instead of 1/4 inch).
If the zipper pull comes off or breaks, you can buy a replacement pull at a fabric store for $2 to $5 and slide it onto the slider. If the slider itself is damaged, you will need to replace the entire zipper—remove the old stitches, cut out the old zipper, and sew in a new one using the same method.
If the fabric bunches or puckers around the zipper, the fabric was likely shifting as you sewed. Remove the stitches and try again, pinning more frequently (every 1 to 2 inches) and sewing more slowly. You can also use a walking foot instead of a zipper foot if your machine has one—it feeds the fabric more evenly and reduces puckering.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?
You can, but the stitches will be farther from the zipper teeth, leaving a visible gap. A zipper foot costs $5 to $15 and makes the job much easier and neater. If you plan to sew more than one zipper, it is worth buying.
What if my zipper is longer than the side of my pillow cover?
Trim the zipper to the correct length before you sew it. Open the zipper, measure the length you need, and carefully cut off the excess tape and teeth with scissors. Seal the cut end by wrapping a few stitches around the tape to prevent the teeth from coming loose.
Do I have to put the zipper on the back of the cover?
No. You can put it on any side—front, back, or even a corner. A back zipper is most common because it is hidden when the pillow is displayed, but a side or bottom zipper works just as well. Just make sure the zipper is at least 1.5 inches away from any corner so you have room to sew the adjacent sides.
Can I sew a zipper into a pillow cover by hand?
Yes, but it takes much longer and the stitches are more visible. Use a backstitch and sew as close to the zipper teeth as you can. A machine is faster and produces neater, more durable stitches, but hand sewing works if you do not have access to a machine.
What type of zipper should I use?
A standard coil or metal zipper works best for pillow covers. Avoid separating zippers (the kind used on jackets) because they do not close smoothly when sewn into a seam. Buy a zipper labeled for home décor or general sewing, not one made specifically for garments.