The basic method: pin, baste, then stitch
Sewing a zipper into a purse means anchoring the zipper tape (the fabric strip on either side of the metal or plastic teeth) to the purse opening, then stitching it down so it stays put when you open and close the bag. The process has three stages: pinning the zipper in place, basting it with loose stitches to hold it steady, and then sewing it permanently with a zipper foot on your machine.
The zipper foot is essential—it is a presser foot that sits to one side of the needle instead of straddling it, so you can stitch right next to the zipper teeth without hitting them. Most machines come with one, or you can buy a universal zipper foot for under $10. Without it, you will either break needles or sew too far from the teeth and end up with a loose, floppy zipper.
Start with a zipper that is at least 1 inch longer than your purse opening on each end. You will trim the excess later. A 7-inch or 9-inch zipper works for most small purses; measure your opening first.
Key Takeaways
- A zipper foot is required to stitch close to the teeth without breaking needles or sewing too far away.
- Pin the zipper face-down on the right side of one purse piece, then baste with loose stitches before permanent stitching.
- Stitch both sides of the zipper tape, then fold the purse pieces right-sides-together and sew the side seams to trap the zipper ends.
- Trim excess zipper length after the side seams are complete, then cover the raw ends with a label or fabric patch if they will show.
Prepare the purse pieces and zipper
Cut your purse pieces to finished size—for example, two rectangles 5 inches wide by 6 inches tall for a small clutch. The zipper will sit along the top edge. Press both pieces with an iron so they are flat and any fold lines are set.
Open the zipper fully and lay it flat on a table, teeth facing up. Check that the slider moves smoothly from end to end. If it catches or sticks, work it back and forth a few times or explore a tiny amount of graphite pencil to the teeth (not oil or grease, which attracts lint).
Lay one purse piece right-side-up on your work surface. This is the piece where the zipper pull will face outward when the purse is finished. Place the zipper face-down on top of it, so the zipper teeth point toward the fabric and the zipper tape sits along the top edge. The zipper pull should hang off one side. Align the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the purse piece—they should be flush.
Pin and baste the first side
Pin the zipper tape to the purse piece every 1 to 1.5 inches along the length, pushing pins perpendicular to the edge so they do not get in your way when you sew. Pin from the zipper side, not the fabric side, so you can see exactly where the tape meets the fabric edge.
Thread your machine with thread that matches the purse fabric or the zipper tape—whichever is more visible. Set the stitch length to 3.0 or 3.5 mm (a medium length) and thread tension to normal. Attach the zipper foot and lower it onto the fabric.
Sew a basting line—a temporary line of loose stitches—about 1/4 inch away from the zipper teeth, running the full length of the zipper. Basting stitches are longer than permanent stitches (around 4.0 to 5.0 mm) so they are straightforward to remove later. This holds the zipper in place while you position the second purse piece and sew both sides permanently.
Attach the second purse piece
Flip the purse so the first piece is now on top and the zipper is sandwiched between the two pieces, with the second piece lying flat underneath. The zipper tape should be visible along the top edge, and the zipper pull should still hang off to one side. Smooth out any wrinkles or bunching in the fabric.
Pin the second purse piece to the zipper tape the same way you pinned the first—every 1 to 1.5 inches, perpendicular to the edge. Make sure the two purse pieces are aligned at the sides and corners so the finished purse will be even.
Baste this side the same way: 1/4 inch from the teeth, full length, with loose stitches. Now both sides of the zipper are held in place and you can see how the finished purse will look.
Sew the zipper permanently
Reset your stitch length to 2.0 to 2.5 mm (a short, tight stitch) for permanent seaming. Keep the zipper foot attached. Sew along the first side of the zipper, staying as close to the teeth as you can without hitting them—about 1/8 inch away. Sew slowly and stop every few stitches to make sure the needle is not drifting toward the teeth.
When you reach the end of the zipper, leave the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot, and pivot the purse 180 degrees. Lower the presser foot and sew back along the other side of the zipper, again staying 1/8 inch from the teeth. This creates a rectangle of stitching around the zipper that holds it firmly in place.
After both sides are sewn, remove the basting stitches by gently pulling on the loose thread. A seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade) makes this easier—slide the blade under a basting stitch, lift it, and cut. Pull the thread out in sections.
Close the side seams and finish the zipper ends
Fold the purse so the two pieces are right-sides-together (the fabric sides facing each other, the zipper on the inside). The zipper is now sandwiched between the two pieces. Pin the side seams and sew them with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, using a regular presser foot (not the zipper foot). Sew from the top edge down to the bottom, catching the zipper tape ends in the seam so they cannot fray.
Trim the excess zipper length with scissors or a seam ripper, cutting as close to the side seam as you safely can. If the zipper ends will be visible on the inside of the finished purse, cover them with a small fabric patch or a woven label stitched over the raw edges. This prevents fraying and looks neater.
Turn the purse right-side-out through the bottom opening (if you have not closed it yet) or through the zipper opening (if the bottom is already sewn). Press the top edge with an iron so the seams lie flat. Test the zipper by opening and closing it several times—it should move smoothly without catching.
Troubleshooting common zipper problems
If the zipper pulls to one side or the purse opening is uneven, the two pieces were not aligned when you pinned the second side. Unpick the permanent stitches, remove the basting, repin the second piece so it is centered, and sew again. This is why basting first saves time—it lets you check the fit before committing to permanent stitches.
If the zipper is stiff or hard to move after sewing, you may have sewn too close to the teeth and the stitches are pinching them. A small amount of graphite from a pencil rubbed on the teeth can free it up. If it is still stuck, you may need to carefully cut out a few stitches with a seam ripper to give the teeth more room.
If the zipper tape is bunched or wavy, the fabric was not smooth when you pinned it. Press the purse pieces again and re-baste before sewing permanently. Bunching usually means the tape was stretched slightly during pinning, and pressing relaxes it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a zipper without a zipper foot?
Technically yes, but it is difficult and risky. A regular presser foot straddles the needle and sits too far from the zipper teeth, so you will sew 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from them, leaving a gap that makes the zipper loose and floppy. You also risk hitting the teeth or slider with the needle, which breaks needles and can damage the zipper. A zipper foot costs under $10 and takes 30 seconds to install.
What if my zipper is shorter than the purse opening?
The zipper must be at least as long as the opening, plus 1 inch extra on each end for seam allowance. If it is too short, you will have to either make the purse smaller or buy a longer zipper. Measure the opening before you buy the zipper to avoid this problem.
Do I have to baste before sewing permanently?
Basting is not required, but it prevents the zipper from shifting while you sew, which can result in an uneven opening or crooked stitches. If you skip basting, pin very carefully and sew slowly. Most sewers baste because it takes only a few minutes and saves the frustration of unpicking permanent stitches.
How do I keep the zipper slider from getting in the way while I sew?
Position the slider so it hangs off the side of the purse, away from the area you are stitching. As you sew toward it, stop before you reach it, raise the presser foot, slide the slider back toward the other end of the zipper, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This keeps the slider out of the needle's path.
What thread should I use to sew the zipper?
Use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread that matches the purse fabric or the zipper tape, whichever is more visible. If the purse is patterned, match the dominant color. Avoid very thick thread or decorative thread, which can break under the tension of stitching close to the zipper teeth.