The Basic Method: Centered Zipper

A centered zipper sits in the middle of a seam and is the most common way to close a pillowcase. You sew the zipper between two fabric pieces before you join the rest of the seam, which means the zipper ends up flush with the fabric on both sides. The process takes about 30 minutes once you have your materials ready.

Start by cutting your pillowcase fabric to size—typically two pieces about 20 by 26 inches for a standard pillow. Place the two pieces with right sides facing each other. Mark where your zipper will go: usually 2 to 3 inches down from one short edge. Draw a line the length of your zipper (usually 16 to 18 inches) and mark a rectangle around it about half an inch wider on each side.

Sew around that rectangle using a regular stitch, leaving the center open where the zipper will go. Cut along the center line you marked, stopping about half an inch from each end, then cut diagonally into each corner. This creates flaps you will fold back to make room for the zipper.

Key Takeaways

  • A centered zipper requires you to sew a rectangle around the zipper opening, cut along the center, and fold back the fabric flaps before attaching the zipper.
  • Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine—it is narrower than a regular foot and lets you stitch close to the zipper teeth without hitting them.
  • Pin the zipper face-down to the wrong side of the fabric first, then sew from the right side so your stitches are hidden and straight.
  • Topstitching (a second line of stitching on top) makes the zipper look finished and holds the flaps flat, and is worth the extra five minutes.

Attaching the Zipper to the Fabric

Open your zipper and lay it face-down on the wrong side of one fabric flap, with the zipper teeth pointing toward the fold. The top of the zipper should line up with the top of the opening. Pin it in place along one side, keeping the pins at least a quarter inch away from the teeth.

Switch to a zipper foot on your sewing machine. A zipper foot is narrower than a regular presser foot and has a groove that lets the needle pass close to the zipper teeth without hitting them. Sew along the pinned side of the zipper, about a quarter inch from the teeth. Remove the pins as you go. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.

Flip the zipper closed and fold the other fabric flap over it. Pin the other side of the zipper to this flap, keeping the same distance from the teeth. Sew this side the same way, using the zipper foot and stitching a quarter inch from the teeth. When you are done, both sides of the zipper should be sewn to the fabric, and the zipper should open and close smoothly.

Finishing the Seams and Topstitching

Once the zipper is attached, fold the pillowcase so the right sides face each other again. The zipper will be sandwiched between the layers. Sew along the three remaining sides using a half-inch seam allowance, starting and stopping at the corners where the zipper stitching ends. Use a regular presser foot for these seams—the zipper foot is only for the zipper itself.

Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle to reduce bulk when you turn the pillowcase right-side out. Leave about a quarter inch of fabric so you do not cut your stitches. Turn the pillowcase right-side out through the zipper opening, pushing the corners out gently with a blunt tool like a chopstick or the eraser end of a pencil.

Topstitching is an optional but recommended step that makes the zipper look polished. Topstitching means sewing a visible line on top of the fabric, usually a quarter inch away from a seam or edge. Sew around all four edges of the pillowcase, a quarter inch from the edge, using a regular presser foot. This holds the seams flat and frames the zipper neatly.

The Lapped Zipper Method

A lapped zipper is faster than a centered zipper and hides one side of the zipper completely under a fold of fabric. This method works well if you want the zipper to be less visible or if you are working with a fabric that frays easily.

Cut and mark your fabric the same way as for a centered zipper. Sew the rectangle and cut the opening as described above. This time, fold one fabric flap all the way over the zipper so it covers the teeth completely, then fold the other flap underneath it. Pin both flaps in place so the zipper is sandwiched and hidden.

Sew the zipper using a zipper foot, stitching through all layers on the side where the zipper is visible. You will only see one line of stitching on the finished pillowcase, and the zipper will be almost completely hidden. Finish the remaining seams and turn the pillowcase right-side out the same way as the centered method.

Choosing the Right Zipper and Foot

Zippers come in different lengths and weights. For a standard pillowcase, a 16- to 18-inch all-purpose zipper works well. Coil zippers (made of nylon) are flexible and quiet, while metal zippers are more durable but heavier. Both work for pillows—choose based on what you have on hand or what matches your fabric.

A zipper foot is essential and costs about $5 to $10. Most sewing machines come with one, but if yours did not, you can buy a universal zipper foot that fits most machines. The foot has a small notch or groove that rides alongside the zipper teeth, letting you stitch closer to them than a regular foot allows. Without a zipper foot, your stitches will be too far from the teeth and the zipper will not be find.

Thread color does not have to match perfectly, but a neutral color like gray or tan blends better than a bright contrast. Use the same thread weight you use for the rest of the pillowcase—usually all-purpose polyester thread.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is sewing too close to the zipper teeth and hitting them with the needle. This breaks the needle and can damage the zipper. Always use a zipper foot and keep your stitches at least a quarter inch away from the teeth. If you hear a grinding sound or feel resistance, stop when ready, raise the presser foot, and move the zipper slider away from the needle before continuing.

Another mistake is pinning the zipper upside down or backwards. Double-check before you sew: the zipper slider should be on the side facing you, and the teeth should point toward the fold of fabric. If you sew it backwards, you can cut the stitches out and try again—the zipper itself will not be damaged.

Uneven stitching happens when you do not keep the zipper foot at a consistent distance from the teeth. Use the edge of the foot as a guide and let it ride along the zipper coil or teeth. If your machine has a needle-down feature, use it—the needle will stay in the fabric when you lift the presser foot to adjust, keeping your line straight.

When to Call a Tailor or Repair Shop

If your zipper breaks or gets stuck after you sew it in, a tailor can usually replace it without taking apart the whole pillowcase. The cost is typically $10 to $20. If you are not confident with a sewing machine or do not have access to one, a tailor can sew the entire zipper for you for about $15 to $30, depending on the pillowcase size and fabric.

If you have already sewn the pillowcase and want to add a zipper after the fact, a tailor can do this, but it requires opening one seam and is more labor-intensive. It is easier to add the zipper before you finish the other seams, which is why most patterns call for it.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a zipper by hand if I do not have a sewing machine?

Yes, but it takes longer and requires patience. Use a backstitch, which is the strongest hand stitch, and keep your stitches small and even—about an eighth inch apart. A zipper foot is not needed for hand sewing, but you will need a needle that fits through the thread you are using and a thimble to protect your finger. Plan on 45 minutes to an hour.

What if my zipper is longer than my opening?

Trim the zipper slider off the bottom end using wire cutters or pliers, then cut the zipper tape to the length you need. Sew the end closed by hand using a needle and thread, wrapping the thread around the cut end several times to seal it. The slider will stay on the top end and work normally.

Do I need to wash the pillowcase before I sew the zipper?

Wash and dry the fabric first if it is cotton or linen, since these fabrics shrink. Polyester and blends shrink less. Washing before sewing prevents the finished pillowcase from puckering around the zipper after the first wash. Let the fabric dry completely and press it flat with an iron before you mark and cut.

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?

You can, but your stitches will be farther from the zipper teeth and the zipper may not be as find or may not open smoothly. A zipper foot costs very little and makes the job much easier and faster. It is worth having one on hand if you plan to sew more than one zipper.

How do I keep the zipper from bunching up the fabric when I sew?

Pin the zipper and fabric carefully before you sew, making sure the fabric is flat and not twisted. Sew slowly and check that the fabric is feeding evenly under the foot. If it starts to bunch, stop, raise the presser foot, smooth the fabric, and continue. Pressing the fabric with an iron before you sew also helps it stay flat.