Sewing a zipper into a pocket takes about 30 to 45 minutes once you understand the order of steps
A zipper pocket is sewn before you attach the pocket to the garment. You sew the zipper between two pieces of fabric, then sew that finished pocket unit onto your shirt, bag, or pants. The zipper sits sandwiched inside, with fabric on both sides, so the teeth never show on the outside.
The basic sequence is: cut your pocket pieces, pin the zipper face-down to one piece, sew it down, fold the fabric over the zipper, sew the other pocket piece to the back of the zipper, then sew the whole pocket onto your garment. If you rush the pinning step or sew too close to the zipper teeth, the zipper will jam or the stitches will catch the slider. Taking time to pin straight and sew a quarter-inch from the teeth prevents both problems.
Key Takeaways
- The zipper goes face-down on the right side of your first pocket piece, then gets sewn down before any other fabric touches it.
- Pin the zipper straight and parallel to the fabric edge, then sew a quarter-inch away from the teeth so the slider moves freely.
- Fold the first pocket piece over the zipper, then sew the second pocket piece to the back of the zipper to create a sandwich.
- Use a zipper foot on your machine — the standard presser foot is too wide and will hit the slider or break a needle.
- Sew the finished pocket onto your garment with a straight stitch around all four sides, staying a quarter-inch from the pocket edge.
Gather your materials and cut the pocket pieces
You will need two rectangles of fabric for the pocket (usually 4 to 6 inches wide and 5 to 8 inches tall, depending on how large you want the opening), one zipper that is at least as long as the width of your pocket, thread that matches your fabric, and a zipper foot for your sewing machine. A zipper foot is a narrow presser foot with a groove on one side that lets the needle pass close to the zipper teeth without hitting them. If your machine did not come with one, they cost $8 to $15 and fit most standard machines.
Cut both pocket pieces to the same size. Press them flat with an iron so they lie smooth — wrinkled fabric will pucker when you sew. If your fabric frays easily (cotton, linen), cut the pieces a half-inch larger than your final pocket size so you have room to fold the raw edges under later. If you are using a knit or non-fraying fabric, you can cut to exact size.
Pin the zipper face-down to the first pocket piece
Lay your first pocket piece right-side up on a flat surface. Place the zipper face-down on top of it, so the zipper teeth are touching the fabric and the zipper tape (the woven strip on either side of the teeth) is facing up toward you. Align the zipper so it runs parallel to one long edge of the pocket piece, about a quarter-inch from that edge.
Pin the zipper in place with three or four pins, spacing them evenly along the length. Push the pins straight through the zipper tape and into the fabric below. The zipper should lie flat and not twist. If the zipper is longer than your pocket piece, that is fine — you will trim it later. If it is shorter, you need a longer zipper.
Sew the zipper to the first pocket piece
Install the zipper foot on your machine and thread it with thread that matches your fabric. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a length of 2.5 to 3.0 mm — this is a standard stitch length for seams. Do not use a very short stitch, which can jam the zipper.
Position the needle so it will sew a quarter-inch away from the zipper teeth, on the zipper tape side. Sew slowly and steadily along the length of the zipper, keeping the line straight and parallel to the teeth. Stop and raise the presser foot if you need to reposition, but do not sew over the zipper slider — if the needle hits it, the slider can break or jam. When you reach the end, backstitch three or four stitches to lock the thread, then cut the thread tails.
Fold the first pocket piece and sew the second piece to the zipper
Fold the first pocket piece up and over the zipper so the fabric now covers the zipper tape and teeth. The zipper is now sandwiched between the first pocket piece (underneath) and the fold of fabric (on top). Press this fold with your fingers or a hot iron to crease it.
Lay the second pocket piece right-side down on top of the folded first piece, so the right sides of both pocket pieces are now facing each other with the zipper in the middle. Pin the second piece in place along the same edge where the zipper is. Sew a quarter-inch seam along this edge, again using the zipper foot and sewing a quarter-inch away from the teeth. Backstitch at the start and end. You now have a pocket sandwich with the zipper sealed inside.
Trim the zipper and finish the pocket edges
Open the pocket so the two fabric pieces lie flat on either side of the zipper. Trim the zipper tape so it does not extend beyond the pocket pieces — use scissors or a seam ripper to cut away the excess zipper tape at both ends. Be careful not to cut the fabric.
If your fabric frays, fold the raw edges of the pocket inward by a quarter-inch and press them flat. This keeps the edges from unraveling when the pocket is washed. If your fabric does not fray, you can leave the edges as they are.
Sew the finished pocket onto your garment
Position the pocket on your garment (shirt, bag, or pants) where you want it to sit. Pin it in place with four or five pins, one near each corner and one in the middle. Use a standard presser foot (not the zipper foot) and sew around all four sides of the pocket, a quarter-inch from the edge. Sew slowly and keep the line straight. Backstitch at the start and end of each side.
When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down in the fabric, raise the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp corner. Sew all the way around until you return to your starting point, then backstitch and cut the thread.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common error is sewing too close to the zipper teeth, which causes the slider to jam or the stitches to catch the teeth when you open and close the zipper. Always sew a quarter-inch away from the teeth, and use a zipper foot so you can see exactly where the needle is going.
Another mistake is pinning the zipper crooked or at an angle. Take time to pin it straight and parallel to the pocket edge before you sew. If the zipper is not straight, the pocket will look uneven and the zipper will not open smoothly.
Sewing over the zipper slider is also common and can break the needle or jam the slider. Stop before you reach the slider, raise the presser foot, move the slider out of the way by hand, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing past where the slider was. Then move the slider back into position.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a zipper pocket with a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?
You can, but it is much harder. A regular presser foot is wide and will hit the zipper slider or the teeth, making it difficult to sew straight. A zipper foot costs $8 to $15 and makes the job much easier and faster. If you plan to sew more than one zipper pocket, it is worth buying.
What if my zipper is longer than my pocket?
Trim the excess zipper tape after you sew the pocket sandwich together. Use scissors or a seam ripper to cut the zipper tape flush with the edge of the pocket fabric. Do not cut the zipper teeth themselves — only the woven tape on the sides.
How do I keep the zipper from puckering the fabric?
Press the fabric flat with an iron before you pin the zipper, and pin it straight and parallel to the edge. Sew slowly and keep even tension on the fabric as it feeds under the presser foot. If puckering still happens, you may have pinned the zipper at a slight angle — unpick the seam, repin it straight, and sew again.
Can I sew a zipper pocket on a stretchy fabric like knit or jersey?
Yes, but stabilize the fabric first. Cut a piece of lightweight interfacing the same size as your pocket pieces and fuse it to the wrong side of each piece with an iron. This prevents the fabric from stretching and puckering as you sew. Follow the interfacing package instructions for heat and pressure.
Do I need to backstitch at the start and end of each seam?
Yes. Backstitching locks the thread so the seam does not unravel when the pocket is used or washed. Sew forward three or four stitches, then press the reverse button and sew backward three or four stitches, then sew forward again to the end of the seam.