The Basic Method for Attaching a Zipper
Sewing a zipper into a pouch means stitching the zipper tape—the fabric strip on either side of the metal or plastic teeth—to the fabric edges of your pouch opening. The zipper sits between two layers of fabric, with the teeth facing inward so they do not catch on the outside of the pouch. You will need a zipper foot (a presser foot that lets the needle sit close to the zipper teeth), thread that matches your fabric, and a needle or sewing machine. Hand-sewing takes longer but works on any fabric; machine-sewing is faster and creates a straighter line.
The most common mistake is sewing too far from the teeth, which leaves a gap between the zipper and the seam. The second is sewing the zipper in crooked, which makes the pouch lopsided when closed. Both are fixable by picking out the stitches and resewing, so do not worry if your first attempt is not perfect.
Key Takeaways
- A zipper foot lets your needle sit close enough to the zipper teeth that the seam does not gap when the pouch closes.
- Pin the zipper to the right side of one fabric piece before sewing, with the zipper teeth facing the fabric and the tape extending into the seam allowance.
- Sew one side of the zipper, then flip the pouch and sew the other side so the zipper is sandwiched between the two layers.
- Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread and prevent unraveling when you open and close the zipper.
- Test the zipper before sewing the pouch closed; if it catches or binds, the zipper may be sewn in crooked and will need to be resewn.
Prepare Your Fabric and Zipper
Cut two pieces of fabric to the size you want your finished pouch to be, plus a seam allowance on all sides (usually half an inch). If your pouch will be lined, cut two lining pieces the same size. Press both fabric pieces with an iron to remove wrinkles, which makes it easier to sew a straight line.
Measure your zipper against the opening of your pouch. The zipper should be at least as long as the opening, and slightly longer is better because the slider (the part you pull) needs room to move without hitting the fabric. If your zipper is too long, you can trim it after sewing, but it is easier to start with the right length. Trim the zipper tape at the ends if needed, but do not cut the teeth themselves.
Pin and Position the Zipper
Place one piece of fabric right-side up on your work surface. Lay the zipper face-down on top of it, with the zipper teeth pointing toward the fabric and the zipper tape sitting in the seam allowance. The edge of the zipper tape should line up with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin the zipper in place along the length of the tape, spacing pins about two inches apart so the fabric does not shift while you sew.
Check that the zipper is straight by looking at it from above. If it curves or angles, remove the pins, reposition it, and pin again. A crooked zipper will make your pouch look uneven and may cause the slider to catch when you open and close it.
Sew the First Side of the Zipper
Install the zipper foot on your sewing machine and thread it with thread that matches your fabric. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters—small enough to hold the zipper securely but not so small that the thread breaks easily when you open and close the pouch.
Position the fabric under the presser foot so the needle will sew along the edge of the zipper tape, about one-eighth inch from the teeth. Backstitch three or four stitches to lock the thread, then sew forward along the entire length of the zipper tape. Backstitch again at the end. Remove the fabric from the machine and trim the thread tails.
Open the zipper slider all the way before you sew the second side. If you leave it in the middle, it will be in the way of the presser foot and may get damaged.
Attach the Second Fabric Piece
Flip the pouch so the second piece of fabric is now on top, right-side down. The zipper is now sandwiched between the two layers. Pin the second fabric piece to the zipper tape on the other side, again with the edge of the tape aligned to the raw edge of the fabric. Make sure the two fabric pieces are lined up evenly at the corners and edges.
Sew along the second zipper tape the same way you sewed the first side: backstitch to lock, sew one-eighth inch from the teeth, and backstitch at the end. The zipper is now attached to both sides of the pouch opening.
Test the Zipper Before Closing the Pouch
Before you sew the remaining three sides of the pouch closed, open and close the zipper several times to make sure it moves smoothly. If the slider catches or feels stiff, the zipper may be sewn in crooked. Stop and pick out the stitches on the side that is catching, reposition the zipper, and sew again. It is much easier to fix this now than after the pouch is completely sewn.
If the zipper works smoothly, you can now sew the other three sides of the pouch closed using a straight stitch and a regular presser foot. Backstitch at the corners to reinforce the seams.
Trim and Finish the Edges
After the pouch is sewn closed, trim any excess zipper tape that sticks out past the fabric edges. Use scissors or a seam ripper to carefully cut the tape close to the stitching line, being careful not to cut the thread or the fabric itself.
If your pouch will be lined, sew the lining pieces together the same way, then slide the lining inside the pouch with wrong sides facing each other. Hand-stitch the lining to the zipper tape using a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), which is nearly invisible from the outside. This step is optional but makes the inside of the pouch look finished.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a zipper by hand instead of with a machine?
Yes. Use a needle and thread, and sew a backstitch along the zipper tape about one-eighth inch from the teeth. It takes longer than machine-sewing and the line may not be as straight, but it works on any fabric and gives you more control. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.
What if my zipper is longer than my pouch opening?
Trim the excess zipper tape after sewing, cutting close to the stitching line. Do not cut the teeth themselves. If the slider is in the way, move it to the other end first. Some people sew a small bar of stitches across the zipper tape at the end to stop the slider from falling off.
Why does my zipper catch when I open and close it?
The zipper is usually sewn in crooked, which twists the teeth slightly. Pick out the stitches on one or both sides, reposition the zipper so it is straight, and sew again. Make sure the zipper tape is aligned evenly with the fabric edges before you pin it.
Do I need a special zipper foot?
A zipper foot is not required, but it makes the job much easier because it lets the needle sit very close to the teeth without hitting them. A regular presser foot will work, but you will have to sew farther from the teeth, which may leave a gap when the pouch closes. Zipper feet are inexpensive and fit most machines.
Should I use a different thread color?
Thread that matches your fabric is the standard choice because it blends in with the seam. If you want the stitching to show as a design detail, use a contrasting color. The thread color does not affect how the zipper works, only how it looks.