The Basic Process for Installing a Zipper
Sewing a zipper into a purse involves pinning the zipper tape to the fabric edges, then stitching it down with a needle and thread or a sewing machine. The zipper sits between two layers of fabric, with the metal or plastic teeth facing inward so they do not catch on items inside the purse. Most purse zippers are sewn with a straight stitch running parallel to the teeth, about one-eighth inch away from the edge of the zipper tape.
The work takes 30 to 45 minutes for a beginner, depending on the purse size and whether you use a machine or hand-sew. You will need the purse fabric already cut and ready to join, a zipper of the correct length, thread that matches your fabric, pins, and either a sewing machine with a zipper foot or a hand-sewing needle. A zipper foot is a presser foot attachment that lets the machine needle run close to the zipper teeth without hitting them.
Key Takeaways
- The zipper tape must be pinned to the right side of the fabric before stitching, with the zipper teeth facing toward the inside of the purse.
- A sewing machine with a zipper foot produces a straighter, faster seam than hand-sewing, though both methods work.
- The stitch line runs parallel to the zipper teeth, about one-eighth inch from the edge of the tape, on both sides of the zipper.
- Backstitching at the start and end of each seam prevents the thread from unraveling when the purse is used.
Preparing the Fabric and Zipper
Cut your purse fabric to the finished size you want, adding a half-inch seam allowance on all edges. If you are making a straightforward rectangular purse, you will have two pieces of fabric that will become the front and back. Lay one piece flat with the right side (the side you want to show) facing up.
Place the zipper along the top edge of this fabric piece, with the zipper tape aligned to the raw edge and the teeth pointing downward toward the fabric. The zipper should run the full width of the purse opening. Pin the zipper tape to the fabric at several points along its length, spacing pins about two inches apart. Make sure the zipper does not twist or bunch as you pin.
Stitching the First Side of the Zipper
If using a sewing machine, attach the zipper foot to your machine and thread it with thread that matches your purse fabric. Position the fabric and zipper under the presser foot so the needle will run along the edge of the zipper tape, about one-eighth inch from the teeth. Lower the presser foot and backstitch two or three stitches to lock the thread, then stitch forward along the entire length of the zipper tape.
Backstitch again at the end to find the thread. If hand-sewing, use a needle threaded with a single strand of thread knotted at one end. Push the needle through the fabric and zipper tape from underneath, bringing it up through both layers. Make small, even stitches about one-eighth inch apart, running parallel to the zipper teeth. Tie off the thread with a knot on the underside when you reach the end.
Remove the pins as you stitch. Do not leave pins in place while the machine runs, as they can break the needle or damage the machine.
Attaching the Second Fabric Piece
Lay the second piece of purse fabric on top of the zipper with its right side facing down, so the right sides of both fabric pieces face each other with the zipper sandwiched between them. The raw edges should align. Pin this second piece to the zipper tape along the same edge, spacing pins two inches apart.
Using the same method as before—machine with zipper foot or hand needle—stitch the second fabric piece to the zipper tape. Run the stitch line parallel to the first one, about one-eighth inch from the zipper teeth. Backstitch at the start and end. The zipper is now sewn to both fabric pieces, with the teeth hidden between the layers.
Finishing the Purse Seams
Open the purse so the two fabric pieces hang on either side of the zipper like an open book. The zipper should move freely up and down. Fold the purse so the two fabric pieces are right sides together again, with the zipper at the top. Pin the side seams and bottom seam, then stitch them closed with a half-inch seam allowance using your machine or hand-sewing needle.
Backstitch at the corners to reinforce them. When you reach the zipper, slow down and stitch carefully around the zipper tape so you do not catch it in the seam. After all seams are stitched, turn the purse right side out through the opening at the top (the zipper will be open), and the purse is complete. You can hand-stitch the opening closed if you want a fully enclosed purse, or leave it open if your design calls for that.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most frequent error is pinning the zipper upside down, with the teeth facing outward instead of inward. Check before you stitch: the teeth should point toward the inside of the purse, and the flat zipper tape should be visible on the outside. If you stitch it backward, you can carefully cut the stitches with a seam ripper and re-pin the zipper the correct way.
Another common problem is stitching too close to the zipper teeth, which causes the needle to hit the metal or plastic and break. The one-eighth inch distance gives you a safety margin. If your machine needle does break, stop when ready, remove the broken piece, insert a fresh needle, and resume stitching from where you stopped.
Bunching or twisting the zipper tape while pinning leads to uneven stitching and a zipper that does not slide smoothly. Lay the zipper flat on a table before pinning it to the fabric, and smooth it with your hand as you work. If the zipper is twisted when you finish stitching, you may need to remove the stitches and start over.
When to Use a Zipper Foot Versus Hand-Sewing
A zipper foot is worth using if you own a sewing machine, because it produces a faster, straighter seam and is less tiring than hand-sewing a long zipper. The foot is inexpensive (usually five to fifteen dollars) and fits most standard machines. If your machine did not come with one, check your machine model number and purchase one from a fabric store or online.
Hand-sewing is the better choice if you do not have a machine, if your zipper is very short (under six inches), or if you want more control over the stitch placement. Hand-sewing also works well for delicate fabrics that might pucker under machine pressure. The trade-off is that it takes longer and requires more patience, but the result is just as durable if your stitches are even and tight.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if my zipper is longer than the purse opening?
Trim the zipper to the correct length before sewing. Mark the length you need with a pen, then carefully cut through the zipper tape on both sides with scissors or a seam ripper. Do not cut the teeth themselves. If the zipper has a metal stop at the bottom, you can leave it in place or remove it with pliers before trimming.
Can I sew a zipper by hand if I have never sewn before?
Yes. Hand-sewing a zipper is slower than using a machine, but the technique is straightforward: push the needle through both layers of fabric and tape, pull it through, and repeat. Make your stitches small and even, about one-eighth inch apart. Practice on scrap fabric first if you want to build confidence before working on your actual purse.
What happens if the zipper gets stuck while I am sewing?
Stop when ready and do not force the zipper slider. Gently wiggle the slider back and forth to free it, or carefully pull the fabric away from the teeth. If thread has wrapped around the slider, use small scissors or a seam ripper to cut it away. Once the zipper moves freely, resume stitching.
Do I need to use a specific thread color?
Thread that matches your fabric is the standard choice because it blends in with the seam. If you do not have an exact match, choose a thread one shade darker rather than lighter, as it is less visible. The thread color does not affect how well the zipper works, only how the seam looks from the outside.
Can I sew a zipper into a purse that is already finished?
It is much harder to sew a zipper into a completed purse because you cannot access both sides of the fabric easily. If you need to replace a broken zipper in an existing purse, you will need to carefully cut out the old zipper stitches with a seam ripper, remove the old zipper, and then pin and stitch the new one in place. This is a repair job that takes longer than sewing a zipper into new fabric.