The basic process: pin, baste, then stitch

Sewing a zipper into a skirt involves four main steps: preparing the opening, pinning the zipper in place, basting it with temporary stitches, and then sewing it permanently with a zipper foot on your machine. The whole job takes about an hour for someone new to it, and the result is a professional-looking closure that will last through many washes.

The key difference between a sloppy zipper and a neat one is taking time with the pinning stage. A zipper that is pinned straight and centered will stitch straight and centered. A zipper that is pinned crooked will stitch crooked, and you will see it every time you wear the skirt.

Key Takeaways

  • Prepare the skirt opening by finishing the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears so the fabric does not fray inside the zipper.
  • Pin the zipper tape (not the teeth) to the seam allowance on each side, keeping the zipper centered and straight along the opening.
  • Baste the zipper with a long temporary stitch by hand or machine before removing pins, so you can adjust if needed.
  • Sew the zipper permanently using a zipper foot, which lets you stitch close to the teeth without hitting them.
  • Topstitch along the outside of the skirt if you want a finished look that matches ready-made garments.

Prepare the skirt opening and finish the raw edges

Before the zipper goes in, the raw edges of the opening need to be sealed so they do not fray inside the zipper and create bulk. The easiest method is a zigzag stitch on your machine: set it to a medium width (about 3 to 4 millimeters) and stitch along each raw edge of the opening. This takes about five minutes and prevents the fabric from unraveling.

If you do not have a zigzag stitch or prefer not to use one, pinking shears (scissors with a zigzag blade) work just as well. Cut along each raw edge with the pinking shears, and the zigzag edge will resist fraying. This is faster than stitching and gives the same result.

Once the edges are finished, press the seam allowance flat with an iron. This makes the next step—pinning the zipper—much easier because the fabric lies smooth and you can see exactly where the zipper teeth sit.

Pin the zipper tape to the seam allowance

Lay the skirt flat on your work surface with the opening facing up. Open the zipper fully. Position one side of the zipper so that the zipper tape (the fabric strip on either side of the teeth) sits on top of the seam allowance, and the teeth run along the edge of the opening. The teeth should be about one-eighth inch away from the fold of the fabric—close enough to look neat, but not so close that the fabric gets caught when you zip.

Pin the zipper tape to the seam allowance every half inch or so, working from top to bottom. Use straight pins placed perpendicular to the zipper tape so they are straightforward to remove later. Check that the zipper is centered and straight by looking at it from both sides of the skirt. If one side is crooked, unpin that section and reposition it.

Once the first side is pinned, flip the skirt over and pin the other side of the zipper the same way. The two sides should be mirror images of each other. Take your time here—this is where the quality of the finished zipper is decided.

Baste the zipper with temporary stitches

Basting means sewing with a long stitch that holds the zipper in place but is straightforward to remove if you need to adjust. Set your machine to the longest stitch length (usually 5 millimeters or more) and thread it with thread that matches your skirt. Sew along one side of the zipper tape, staying about one-quarter inch away from the teeth. Remove the pins as you go.

Flip the skirt and baste the other side the same way. Once both sides are basted, close the zipper and check that it runs smoothly and that the fabric on both sides lies flat. If the zipper pulls to one side or the fabric bunches, you can carefully remove the basting stitches and repin that section.

Basting takes an extra 10 minutes but saves you from having to rip out permanent stitches if something goes wrong. For a beginner, this step is worth doing every time.

Sew the zipper permanently with a zipper foot

A zipper foot is a presser foot attachment that is narrower than a standard foot and can be positioned on either side of the needle. This lets you stitch very close to the zipper teeth without the foot hitting them. Most machines come with a zipper foot, or you can buy one for $10 to $20 that fits your machine model.

Attach the zipper foot to your machine and thread it with thread that matches your skirt. Set the stitch length back to normal (about 2.5 millimeters). Position the foot so the needle will stitch along the basting line you just made, about one-quarter inch from the zipper teeth.

Sew slowly along one side of the zipper, removing the basting stitches as you go or leaving them in place if they are hidden under the zipper foot. Stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, and pivot the skirt at the bottom of the zipper so you can sew across the bottom. Then flip the skirt and sew the other side the same way.

Remove basting stitches and press the seam

Once both sides are permanently stitched, remove any visible basting stitches by gently pulling the long thread. The basting stitches should come out easily because they were sewn with a long stitch length. Use a seam ripper if any thread breaks and gets stuck.

Press the zipper seam with an iron on a low to medium heat setting. Press from the inside of the skirt first, then flip it and press from the outside. This sets the stitches and makes the seam lie flat.

Topstitch for a finished look (optional)

Topstitching is a row of visible stitching on the outside of the skirt, about one-quarter inch away from the zipper seam. It is not necessary for the zipper to work, but it gives the skirt a polished, ready-made appearance and is standard on most commercial garments.

To topstitch, thread your machine with thread that matches the skirt or contrasts intentionally (if you want a decorative look). Use a regular presser foot and sew a straight line along each side of the zipper, about one-quarter inch from the seam. Sew slowly and use a seam guide or piece of tape on the machine bed to keep the line straight.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if the zipper is too long for the opening?

Measure the opening before you buy the zipper. If the zipper is too long, you can shorten it by sewing a bar of stitches across the zipper tape below where you want the bottom to be, then cutting off the excess below that bar. Do this before you install the zipper in the skirt.

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?

A regular foot is wider and will not let you stitch as close to the teeth. You can do it, but the stitching line will be farther from the zipper and the result will look less neat. A zipper foot costs very little and makes a real difference, so it is worth getting one.

What do I do if the zipper gets stuck while I am sewing?

Stop when ready and do not force the needle. Raise the presser foot, gently wiggle the zipper slider to free it, then lower the foot and continue. If the zipper is truly stuck, you may have sewn through the slider itself—in that case, you will need to remove the stitches and reposition the zipper.

Should I use a zipper that matches the skirt fabric color?

A zipper that matches the skirt color is less visible and looks more polished. A contrasting zipper can be a design choice if you want it to stand out. Either works—it depends on the look you are going for.

How do I prevent puckering along the zipper seam?

Puckering usually happens when the fabric is stretched while sewing. Keep tension even on both sides of the presser foot and do not pull the fabric. Sewing slowly also helps. If puckering happens, you can sometimes fix it by pressing the seam firmly with an iron on a damp cloth.