The basic method: pin, stitch, and backstitch

Sewing a zipper on by hand takes about 20 to 30 minutes once you have the zipper and fabric in front of you. The process is: pin the zipper face-down along the seam line, stitch it down with a needle and thread (or a sewing machine), then fold the fabric over and stitch the other side. The key is keeping the zipper straight as you go and making sure your stitches stay close to the zipper teeth without catching them.

You will need a zipper that matches the length of the opening (or longer—you can trim it), a needle or sewing machine, thread that matches your fabric, pins, and scissors. If you are using a machine, a zipper foot (a presser foot designed to ride close to the zipper) makes the work much easier, though you can do it with a regular foot if you are careful.

The two most common methods are hand-sewing and machine-sewing. Hand-sewing is slower but gives you more control and works on any fabric. Machine-sewing is faster and produces a straighter line, but requires a zipper foot and a working machine.

Key Takeaways

  • Pin the zipper face-down along the seam line before you stitch, and check that it lies flat and straight along the entire length.
  • Stitch close to the zipper teeth but not so close that your needle hits them—about 1/8 inch away is the standard distance.
  • A zipper foot on a sewing machine lets you stitch right next to the teeth without the presser foot getting in the way.
  • Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread and prevent the stitches from coming loose.
  • Test the zipper by opening and closing it before you trim any loose threads or fabric.

Hand-sewing a zipper step by step

Start by laying your fabric flat with the opening where the zipper will go facing up. Place the zipper face-down (teeth side down) along one side of the opening, with the top stop of the zipper aligned with the top of the opening. Pin it in place every inch or so, making sure it does not shift. The zipper should lie flat against the fabric with no bunching or twisting.

Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Starting at the top of the zipper, push the needle through the fabric and the zipper tape (the woven strip on either side of the teeth) from the back. Use a backstitch—push the needle forward through both layers, then bring it back up about 1/8 inch ahead, and repeat. Stay about 1/8 inch away from the zipper teeth. Backstitch all the way down to the bottom stop.

Once the first side is sewn, fold the fabric over so the other side of the opening lines up with the other side of the zipper tape. Pin it in place the same way. Stitch the second side using the same backstitch, staying parallel to the first line of stitching. When you reach the bottom, tie off the thread on the back side of the fabric by making a small loop and pulling the needle through it twice.

Open and close the zipper to make sure it moves smoothly. If it catches or feels stiff, you may have stitched too close to the teeth. Trim any loose threads with scissors.

Machine-sewing a zipper with a zipper foot

Attach the zipper foot to your sewing machine according to your machine's manual. The zipper foot is narrower than a standard presser foot and can ride right up against the zipper teeth without the foot itself getting in the way.

Pin the zipper face-down along one side of the opening, the same way you would for hand-sewing. Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of about 2.5 (medium length). Position the zipper foot so the needle will stitch about 1/8 inch away from the teeth. Lower the presser foot and stitch slowly from the top of the zipper to the bottom, removing pins as you go. Backstitch at the start and end by pressing the reverse button for a few stitches.

Flip the fabric and pin the other side of the zipper in place. Stitch the second side the same way, keeping the line of stitching parallel to the first. Test the zipper before you trim threads.

Keeping the zipper straight and centered

The most common mistake is letting the zipper shift or twist as you stitch. Pinning every inch prevents this. Before you stitch, lay the fabric flat on a table and look at the zipper from above—it should form a straight line with no kinks or bunches. If it does not, unpin it, smooth it out, and pin again.

If you are sewing both sides of the zipper (as in a centered zipper on a jacket or bag), mark the center line of the opening with a pencil or fabric pen before you start. Pin the zipper so it is equidistant from both edges. This keeps the opening symmetrical and the zipper centered.

If the zipper is longer than the opening, you can trim it after sewing. Leave at least 1/2 inch of zipper tape beyond the stitching line so the stitches do not unravel. Use heavy scissors or wire cutters to cut the metal or plastic stop at the bottom, then slide the excess off.

Fixing a zipper that catches or sticks

If the zipper catches fabric or feels stiff after you sew it on, the most likely cause is stitching too close to the teeth. The needle may have gone through the zipper coil itself, or the thread may be pinching the fabric into the teeth. Carefully cut the stitches with a seam ripper (a small tool with a curved blade), pull them out, and re-stitch about 1/4 inch farther away from the teeth.

Another cause is puckering or bunching in the fabric as you stitch. If the fabric under the zipper is not lying flat, the zipper will not sit straight. Before you stitch, press the fabric with an iron to remove wrinkles, and make sure the seam allowance (the fabric between the edge and the opening) is even on both sides.

If the zipper itself is old or damaged, no amount of careful sewing will fix it. In that case, remove the old zipper and sew on a new one.

Choosing the right zipper length and type

Zippers come in different lengths and materials. Measure the opening where the zipper will go from top to bottom, and buy a zipper that is the same length or slightly longer. A zipper that is too short will not close the opening; one that is too long can be trimmed.

Metal zippers are durable and work well on heavy fabrics like denim and canvas. Plastic (nylon) zippers are lighter and work on most garments and bags. Coil zippers (made of nylon thread wound into a spiral) are flexible and less likely to jam. Separating zippers (the kind that come completely apart at the bottom, used on jackets) require a different sewing method than non-separating zippers.

For most home sewing projects, a standard non-separating nylon zipper in a length that matches your opening is the easiest choice.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a zipper on by hand if I do not have a sewing machine?

Yes. Hand-sewing a zipper takes longer—usually 30 to 45 minutes—but it works just as well as machine-sewing. Use a backstitch and keep your stitches small and close together (about 1/8 inch apart) so they do not come loose. The key is patience and keeping the zipper straight as you go.

What if my zipper is longer than the opening?

You can trim the excess. After sewing the zipper on, use heavy scissors or wire cutters to cut off the metal or plastic stop at the bottom of the zipper, then slide the extra tape off. Leave at least 1/2 inch of tape beyond your stitching line so the stitches do not unravel.

How close to the zipper teeth should I stitch?

About 1/8 inch away is standard. If you stitch too close, your needle may catch the teeth or the coil, which will make the zipper stiff or cause it to catch fabric. If you stitch too far away, the zipper tape will show and the seam will look loose.

Why does my zipper stick or catch after I sew it on?

The most common cause is stitching too close to the teeth, which can pinch fabric into the zipper. Use a seam ripper to remove the stitches and re-sew about 1/4 inch farther away. Also check that the fabric under the zipper is flat and not bunched—press it with an iron before you stitch.

Do I need a special zipper foot for my sewing machine?

A zipper foot makes the job much easier because it is narrower than a standard presser foot and can ride right next to the teeth. You can stitch a zipper with a regular foot if you are careful to keep the needle away from the teeth, but a zipper foot is inexpensive and worth having if you plan to sew zippers more than once.