The basic method: inserting a centered zipper
A centered zipper sits in the middle of a seam, with fabric folded equally on both sides. This is the most common approach for skirt side seams and back seams. You'll sew the seam closed first, then cut it open along the center line, and stitch the zipper behind the opening.
Start by sewing your skirt seam all the way closed with a regular stitch, using the seam allowance your pattern calls for—usually half an inch. Press the seam open flat with an iron. Using a seam ripper or small scissors, carefully cut the threads along the center of the seam for the length of your zipper opening, typically 7 to 9 inches. Do not cut the fabric itself, only the thread.
Open the seam so the cut runs down the middle. Press the seam allowances to either side so they lie flat. Pin the zipper face-down behind the opening, with the zipper teeth centered over the cut. The top stop of the zipper should sit just below where your waistband will attach. Use a zipper foot on your machine—this is a narrower presser foot that lets you stitch close to the teeth without hitting them.
Key Takeaways
- A centered zipper requires sewing the seam closed first, then cutting it open and stitching the zipper behind the opening from the inside.
- A lapped zipper hides one side of the zipper under a fold of fabric and is faster because you do not cut an already-sewn seam.
- Always use a zipper foot, which is narrower than a regular presser foot and lets you stitch close to the teeth without jamming.
- Stitch the zipper down both long sides before attaching your waistband, and test the zipper movement before cutting thread.
- If your zipper puckers or pulls, you likely stitched too close to the teeth or pulled the fabric while sewing.
Stitching the zipper foot down both sides
With the zipper pinned behind the opening and the zipper foot attached to your machine, stitch down one long side of the zipper. Start at the top and sew slowly toward the bottom, keeping the needle about one-eighth inch from the zipper teeth. Stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, and slide the zipper pull out of the way if it gets close to the foot. Lower the presser foot and continue.
When you reach the bottom, backstitch to lock the thread. Remove the pins and flip the skirt over so you can see the other side of the seam. Pin the other side of the zipper in place, making sure the fabric edges still meet evenly over the zipper teeth. Stitch the second side the same way, starting at the top and working down slowly.
Before you cut your thread, test the zipper by pulling it up and down a few times. If it moves smoothly and the fabric does not pucker, you are done with the zipper itself. If it catches or the fabric bunches, you likely stitched too close to the teeth on one side. You can carefully remove that line of stitching with a seam ripper and re-stitch it slightly farther from the teeth.
The lapped zipper method: faster and hidden
A lapped zipper is faster because you do not sew the seam closed first. Instead, one side of the zipper is hidden under a fold of fabric, so the seam looks like a regular seam from the outside. This works well for side seams where the zipper will be less visible.
Lay your two skirt pieces right sides together. On one piece, fold the seam allowance to the wrong side along the seam line and press it flat. Leave the other piece unpressed. Pin the zipper face-down to the unpressed seam allowance, with the zipper teeth sitting right on the seam line. Stitch along one side of the zipper using your zipper foot, about one-eighth inch from the teeth.
Fold the pressed seam allowance over the zipper so it covers the teeth completely. Pin it down, then stitch it in place by sewing in the fold itself—this line of stitching will be visible on the outside and will look like a regular seam. The zipper stays hidden underneath. Sew the rest of the seam below the zipper opening with a regular presser foot and regular stitches.
Positioning the zipper so it aligns with your waistband
The top of your zipper should end just below where your waistband will sit. If the zipper extends into the waistband seam, it will be bulky and hard to sew. Measure down from the top of your skirt opening—usually the waistband starts about half an inch below the raw edge—and mark that point on both sides of the seam with a fabric pencil or chalk.
When you pin the zipper in place, align the top stop (the metal or plastic piece at the top of the zipper) so it sits just below that mark. This gives you room to attach the waistband without catching the zipper. If your zipper is too long, you can shorten it by sewing a thread bar across the teeth about half an inch above where you want the new top to be, then cutting off the excess above that bar.
Avoiding puckers and keeping edges even
Puckering happens when you pull the fabric while stitching or when you stitch too close to the zipper teeth and the presser foot pushes the fabric unevenly. To prevent it, keep your hands relaxed and let the machine feed the fabric. Do not pull from behind or push from in front.
Keep the fabric edges even by pinning frequently—every inch or so—and checking that both sides of the opening still line up before you stitch. If one side starts to drift ahead of the other, stop, lift the presser foot, and reposition the pins. Stitch slowly so you have time to notice if the fabric is shifting.
If the zipper itself is pulling to one side, the teeth may not be centered over the seam. This usually happens because the zipper was pinned crooked. Remove the stitches, repin the zipper so the teeth run exactly down the center of the opening, and stitch again.
Attaching the waistband after the zipper is in
Once the zipper is stitched down and tested, you can attach your waistband. The waistband seam will cross over the top of the zipper, so you need to be careful not to catch the zipper pull or the zipper tape in your stitching. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press it.
Pin the waistband to the skirt opening, starting at one side seam and working around. When you reach the zipper, pin the waistband so it sits just above the top stop of the zipper. Sew the waistband on using a regular presser foot, stitching about half an inch from the edge. The zipper pull should be in the down position so it does not get in the way.
After you sew the waistband on, fold it to the inside of the skirt and hand-stitch or machine-stitch the folded edge down. Test the zipper one more time to make sure it still moves freely now that the waistband is attached.
Fixing a zipper that jams or sticks
If your zipper jams while you are sewing, stop when ready and do not force the pull. Lift the presser foot, gently wiggle the zipper pull to free it, and check that no fabric is caught in the teeth. Once it moves freely, lower the presser foot and continue stitching slowly.
If the zipper jams after the skirt is finished, the problem is usually fabric bunched inside the teeth or the zipper teeth themselves slightly bent. Try rubbing the teeth with a graphite pencil—the graphite acts as a lubricant. If that does not work, you may need to replace the zipper. Use a seam ripper to remove the old stitches, slide the old zipper out, and install a new one the same way.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?
A regular presser foot is too wide and will hit the zipper teeth, causing the needle to bend or break and making it hard to stitch close enough to the teeth. A zipper foot costs five to ten dollars and is worth having. Most machines come with one, or you can buy a universal zipper foot that fits most machines.
What if I sew the zipper in crooked and it does not line up?
Use a seam ripper to carefully remove the stitches on one or both sides of the zipper. Repin the zipper so it sits straight, then stitch it again. This takes time but is much easier than trying to fix a crooked zipper after the waistband is attached.
Should the zipper pull face left or right when I sew it in?
The pull should face the side of the skirt where you want to zip and unzip—usually the left side seam for a side-zip skirt or the center back for a back-zip skirt. The direction does not matter for sewing; just make sure the pull is in the down position so it does not get caught in the presser foot.
How do I know if my zipper is the right length?
Measure the opening where the zipper will go, from the top of the seam to where you want the zipper to end. Add one inch to that measurement. A 7-inch opening needs an 8-inch zipper. If your zipper is longer than you need, you can shorten it by sewing a thread bar across the teeth and cutting off the excess.
Can I sew a zipper by hand if I do not have a sewing machine?
Yes, but it takes longer and the stitches will be visible. Use a backstitch and a thread that matches your fabric. Stitch about one-eighth inch from the zipper teeth, keeping your stitches small and even. Hand-sewing works best for a lapped zipper because the stitches are hidden under the fold.