Sew the zipper between two fabric pieces before closing the seams

A zipper in a pillow cover goes in before you finish sewing the cover together. You sandwich the zipper between two pieces of fabric, stitch it down on both sides, then sew the rest of the seams closed. The zipper ends up hidden inside the seam, with only the slider visible on the finished pillow. This method works for any pillow size and takes about 30 to 45 minutes once you have your fabric cut and zipper ready.

The key is keeping the zipper straight and centered as you stitch, and using a zipper foot (a presser foot that lets you sew close to the zipper teeth without hitting them). If you try to use a regular presser foot, the needle will catch on the zipper and break.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric pieces the same size, place the zipper face-down between them with teeth pointing toward one piece, and pin it in place before stitching.
  • Use a zipper foot on your sewing machine and sew slowly about 1/8 inch away from the zipper teeth on both sides.
  • After the zipper is stitched in, sew the remaining three sides of the pillow closed with a regular presser foot, leaving a small opening if you need to turn it right-side out.
  • Press the seams flat with an iron after each step to keep edges crisp and make the next seam easier to sew straight.

What you need before you start

Gather your fabric (two pieces cut to the same size), a zipper that is at least 2 inches shorter than the width of your pillow, thread that matches your fabric, pins, scissors, an iron, and your sewing machine with a zipper foot attached. If you do not have a zipper foot, most sewing machine manuals show how to swap presser feet—it usually takes 10 seconds. Zipper feet cost $5 to $15 and fit most machines.

Test your zipper before you start. Slide it open and closed a few times to make sure it moves smoothly. A stuck or stiff zipper will frustrate you mid-project. If it is stiff, rub a pencil along the teeth a few times—the graphite lubricates them.

Pin the zipper between the fabric pieces

Lay one fabric piece flat on your work surface, right side up. Place the zipper on top of it with the zipper teeth facing down (toward the fabric) and the slider facing up toward you. The zipper should run parallel to one edge of the fabric, about 1/2 inch away from that edge. Pin the zipper tape (the fabric strip on either side of the teeth) to your fabric piece, using pins every 2 to 3 inches.

Now lay the second fabric piece on top, right side down, so the zipper is sandwiched between the two pieces with the teeth still facing the bottom piece. The two fabric pieces should line up exactly at the edges. Pin through all three layers—both fabric pieces and the zipper tape—every 2 to 3 inches along the length of the zipper. This keeps everything from shifting while you sew.

Stitch the zipper to both fabric pieces

Attach the zipper foot to your machine. Thread your machine and set the stitch length to 2.5 (a standard length for seams). Position the fabric under the presser foot so the needle will sew about 1/8 inch away from the zipper teeth—close enough to hold the zipper securely, but far enough away that the needle does not hit the metal teeth.

Sew slowly along the length of the zipper, keeping the line of stitching parallel to the teeth. Stop and reposition the fabric if you feel the needle drifting toward the teeth. Sew all the way to the end of the zipper, then backstitch three or four stitches to lock the thread. Remove the pins as you go or after you finish stitching.

Flip the fabric over and repeat on the other side of the zipper. Sew the second side the same way—about 1/8 inch from the teeth, slow and steady. When you finish, you will have two parallel lines of stitching, one on each side of the zipper, holding both fabric pieces to the zipper tape.

Press and sew the remaining seams

Open the zipper partway (about halfway) before you sew the rest of the pillow closed. This is important—if you sew the pillow completely shut with the zipper closed, you will not be able to turn it right-side out or stuff it. Lay the fabric flat and press the seams with an iron on medium heat, pressing away from the zipper. This flattens the stitches and makes the next seams easier to sew straight.

Swap back to your regular presser foot. Fold the pillow so the two fabric pieces are right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other), and pin the three remaining sides. Sew these three sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, using a straight stitch. Start and end each seam with a backstitch. Leave a 3 to 4-inch opening on one side if you plan to turn the pillow right-side out and stuff it by hand; if you are using a pre-made pillow form, you can sew all three sides completely shut.

Turn and finish the pillow

If you left an opening, turn the pillow right-side out through that opening by reaching in and pulling the fabric through. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a pencil to push the corners out so they are sharp and square. Press the entire pillow with an iron, paying special attention to the seams and corners.

Insert your pillow form or fiberfill through the opening, then hand-stitch the opening closed using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch). This stitch hides the thread inside the seam so the closure is invisible. If you sewed all three sides shut, your pillow is finished—just press it one more time and you are done.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is sewing too close to the zipper teeth and breaking the needle. Stay at least 1/8 inch away, and if you hear a clicking sound as the needle approaches the teeth, stop and reposition. Another mistake is forgetting to open the zipper before sewing the remaining seams, which traps you and makes the pillow impossible to turn right-side out.

Uneven stitching happens when you sew too fast or do not keep the fabric straight under the presser foot. Slow down and watch the edge of the presser foot, not the needle—keeping the presser foot parallel to the zipper keeps the stitching straight. If your stitches are crooked, you can pick them out with a seam ripper and sew again; it takes 10 minutes and is worth the effort.

Puckering (small wrinkles in the fabric) usually means the thread tension is too tight. Check your machine manual for how to adjust tension, or try loosening the top thread tension by one or two numbers. Test on scrap fabric first.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?

No. A regular presser foot is too wide and will hit the zipper teeth, breaking your needle and potentially damaging the machine. A zipper foot is narrow and lets you sew right next to the teeth without hitting them. They cost $5 to $15 and take 10 seconds to swap on.

What size zipper do I need?

The zipper should be at least 2 inches shorter than the width of your pillow. For a 16-inch pillow, use a 14-inch zipper. A longer zipper will stick out past the seam and look bulky; a shorter one gives you room to sew the seams without hitting the zipper stops.

Do I have to open the zipper before sewing the other seams?

Yes. If the zipper is closed when you sew the pillow shut, you will not be able to turn it right-side out or open it to stuff it. Open it at least halfway before you sew the remaining three sides.

Can I put the zipper on a different side of the pillow?

Yes. The zipper can go on any of the four sides. Many people put it on the bottom or back so it is less visible, but it works the same way no matter which side you choose.

What if my zipper is longer than my pillow is wide?

Trim the zipper to the right length before you start. Cut the zipper tape (not the teeth) about 1 inch past where you want it to end, then sew a few stitches across the teeth at that point to create a new stop. This prevents the slider from falling off the shortened end.