A sew-in is braided cornrows with hair woven through them
A sew-in (also called a weave or track) is a protective hairstyle where human or synthetic hair is sewn onto cornrow braids that you wear close to your scalp. The braids act as an anchor, and the hair is attached by threading it through the braids with a needle and thread. The result is a hairstyle that can last four to eight weeks and protects your natural hair underneath while you wear it.
The process requires patience and some skill, but it is something you can learn to do on yourself or have done at a salon. This guide walks through the steps, the tools you need, and when to call in someone with more experience.
Key Takeaways
- You will need cornrow braids as a base, hair tracks or bundles, a curved needle, thread that matches your hair, and scissors.
- The braids must be tight enough to hold the thread but not so tight they pull on your scalp or cause breakage.
- Hair is sewn onto the braids in rows, starting at the nape of your neck and working upward, with each row overlapping slightly.
- Sew-ins last four to eight weeks depending on how well you care for them and how fast your natural hair grows.
- If you are new to this, having a professional do your first one shows you how it should feel and look.
What you need before you start
Gather these items before you begin: hair bundles or tracks (the hair you are sewing in), a curved needle (size 18 or 20 works for most people), thread in a color that matches your hair, scissors, a rat-tail comb for parting, and clips to section your hair. Some people also use a thimble to protect their finger when pushing the needle through the braids, especially if you are doing this for the first time.
The hair you choose matters. Human hair lasts longer and blends better with most natural textures, but it costs more. Synthetic hair is cheaper and holds a curl or wave better, but it can tangle and does not last as long. Buy a little more than you think you need—it is easier to have extra than to run out halfway through.
How to braid your base
Start with clean, dry hair. Section your hair into rows using the rat-tail comb, clipping up the sections you are not working on. The number of rows depends on how much coverage you want and the thickness of your hair—usually four to six rows across the back of your head.
Cornrow each section flat against your scalp, braiding from the front hairline toward the nape of your neck. The braids should be tight enough to hold the thread but not so tight that they pull painfully on your scalp or cause tension on your hairline. If your scalp hurts after an hour, the braids are too tight. Loose braids will not hold the thread, so you need to find the middle ground. This takes practice.
Once all your braids are done, find the ends with small rubber bands or thread. You are now ready to sew.
Sewing the hair onto the braids
Start at the nape of your neck with the lowest row. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Lift the first braid slightly and push the needle through the base of the braid from underneath, coming out on top. This anchors your thread.
Take a section of hair (a track or a bundle you have cut to size) and position it along the braid. Push the needle through the hair and back through the braid, then up through the hair again, creating a stitch that locks the hair to the braid. Keep your stitches close together—about a quarter inch apart—so the hair does not slip. Work your way along the entire braid, then move to the next row above it.
Each new row should overlap the previous one slightly so there are no gaps between the rows. This takes time. A full head typically takes three to six hours, depending on how many rows you have and how experienced you are. If your hands cramp, take a break. Rushing leads to loose stitches that come undone.
Finishing and styling your sew-in
Once all the hair is sewn down, trim the tracks so they blend with your natural hairline and do not stick out. You can cut the hair itself to shape it, layer it, or add a style. Some people cut bangs, some blend the hair with their natural edges, and some leave it longer in the back.
Wash your sew-in gently with sulfate-free shampoo and condition it regularly. Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase to reduce frizz and tangling. Avoid tight ponytails or buns that pull on the braids underneath, as this can cause breakage to your natural hair.
When to take it down and what happens next
After four to eight weeks, your natural hair will have grown enough that the braids loosen and the sew-in starts to slip. This is when you should take it down. Carefully cut the thread holding each row and gently unravel the braids. This process takes time—do not rush or pull hard, as you can break your natural hair.
Once the braids are out, wash and deep condition your natural hair. Let it rest for at least a week before installing a new sew-in. Your scalp and hair need a break to recover. If you notice any breakage or thinning, wait longer before your next install.
Common mistakes that damage your hair
Braids that are too tight are the biggest culprit. Tension alopecia—hair loss caused by constant pulling—can happen if your braids are painful or if you wear sew-ins back-to-back without breaks. Your hairline and edges are especially vulnerable.
Leaving a sew-in in too long is another mistake. After eight weeks, your natural hair has grown so much that the braids are pulling on new growth, and the sew-in is loose enough to tangle and mat. Stitches also weaken over time, and loose hair can wrap around your natural strands and cause breakage when you try to remove it.
Not washing your sew-in regularly leads to buildup, itching, and scalp irritation. Wash it every one to two weeks with the same care you would use on your natural hair.
When to see a professional instead
If this is your first sew-in, consider having a stylist do it. Watching someone experienced install one teaches you what tight braids feel like, how the stitches should look, and how much tension is safe. A professional also has better tools and can work faster, which means less time pulling on your scalp.
If you have a sensitive scalp, fine or thinning hair, or a history of hair loss, talk to a stylist before installing a sew-in. Some people's hair does not tolerate the tension well, and a professional can tell you whether a sew-in is right for you or suggest a gentler protective style instead.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to sew in hair?
A full head usually takes three to six hours, depending on how many rows you have and your experience level. Your first time will be slower. A professional stylist may finish in two to three hours because they work faster and have done it many times.
Can I wash my sew-in?
Yes, and you should. Wash it every one to two weeks with sulfate-free shampoo and condition it. Use cool or lukewarm water and be gentle when washing the braids underneath. Avoid rubbing the hair roughly, as this causes tangling and frizz.
What if my braids start to itch?
Some itching is normal, but severe itching means the braids are too tight or your scalp is irritated. You can rinse your scalp with cool water or use a scalp spray designed for braids. If the itching does not stop, take the sew-in down—tight braids can cause permanent damage to your hair.
How do I know if my braids are too tight?
Your scalp should not hurt. If you feel a constant dull ache, throbbing, or sharp pain, the braids are too tight. Loosen them by gently unbraiding and rebraiding them less tightly. It is better to redo them now than to deal with hair loss later.
Can I reuse the same hair for another sew-in?
Yes, if you take care of it. After you remove your sew-in, wash and condition the hair, let it dry completely, and store it in a cool, dry place. You can sew it in again for your next install, though it will not last quite as long as new hair.