Start with the right needle and thread for faux fur

Faux fur requires a size 16 or 18 needle — larger than you would use for regular fabric — because the pile is thick and dense. A needle that is too small will break or skip stitches. Use a polyester or all-purpose thread in a color that matches either the fur or the backing, depending on which side shows in your seams.

Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3.0 millimeters. A longer stitch prevents the needle from piercing the pile too many times in a short distance, which weakens the backing. Test on a scrap of your actual faux fur first — different weights and pile heights behave differently, and a test seam takes two minutes and saves you from ripping out a sleeve later.

Key Takeaways

  • Always sew faux fur with the pile facing inward (wrong sides together) so the seam allowance sits inside the fur and stays hidden.
  • Use a size 16 or 18 needle with polyester thread and a 2.5 to 3.0 millimeter stitch length to avoid breaking needles or skipping stitches.
  • Trim the pile away from seam allowances before sewing so the seams lie flat and do not create bulky ridges.
  • Brush the fur away from the seam line with a stiff brush or old toothbrush before stitching to keep pile out of the needle path.
  • Serge or zigzag the raw edges of seam allowances after sewing to prevent backing from fraying and shedding loose fibers.

Trim and brush the pile before you sew

Before you cut out your pattern pieces, decide which direction the pile will run — faux fur has a nap, meaning it looks and feels different depending on which way you brush it. Lay all pattern pieces in the same direction so the finished garment has consistent color and sheen.

Once you have cut your pieces, use a seam ripper or small scissors to trim the pile away from the seam allowance — usually a half-inch strip along each edge. Cut only the pile, not the backing. This step is what separates a professional-looking seam from a lumpy one. The backing will still be there to sew through; you are just removing the fur so it does not get caught in the stitches or create bulk.

Before you sew each seam, use a stiff brush or an old toothbrush to brush the remaining pile away from the seam line. Brush toward the body of the piece, not toward the edge. This keeps loose fibers out of your presser foot and needle path.

Sew with pile facing inward

Place two pieces right sides together — which in faux fur means pile sides together, backing sides out. This is the opposite of how you might think about it. The seam allowance will be sandwiched between the two backing fabrics, hidden inside the fur.

Sew slowly and steadily. Do not rush. If the presser foot is dragging or the fabric is not feeding smoothly, stop and check whether pile is caught under the foot. Lift the presser foot, brush the pile away again, and continue. A walking foot or even a Teflon presser foot can help if your machine has trouble feeding thick pile, but most standard presser feet work fine if you take your time.

After you sew the seam, press it open from the backing side using a low heat setting and no steam. Faux fur can melt or mat if you use high heat. You can also finger-press the seam open instead of using an iron — it takes longer but is safer.

Finish seam allowances so they do not shed

Raw seam allowances on faux fur backing will fray and shed loose fibers into your garment. After sewing and pressing, serge or zigzag the raw edges of both seam allowances together. If you have a serger, use a 3-thread or 4-thread serge stitch. If you only have a regular sewing machine, a wide zigzag stitch (width 4 to 5, length 2 to 2.5) works well.

You can also use a pinking shears to cut a zigzag edge along the raw seam allowances, though this is less durable than serging or zigzagging. Pinking shears help but do not fully prevent fraying — serging or zigzagging is the better choice if your machine can do it.

Handle corners, curves, and closures carefully

At corners, sew to the corner point, then pivot with the needle down. Trim the seam allowance at a 45-degree angle across the corner to reduce bulk before you turn the piece right side out. Clip into curved seam allowances every half-inch or so, cutting perpendicular to the seam line but not through the stitches themselves. This lets the seam allowance spread and lie flat when you turn the piece.

For closures like zippers, sew the zipper to the backing fabric only, not through the pile. Brush the pile away from the zipper opening, then sew the zipper tape to the backing with the presser foot running along the edge of the tape. The pile will cover the zipper tape once the garment is finished, so you do not need to worry about it showing.

Turn and brush the finished seams

Once you have sewn all seams and finished the raw edges, turn the garment right side out through an opening you left unsewn (usually at a side seam or the back neck). Use a point turner or chopstick to gently push out corners and seams, being careful not to poke through the backing fabric.

After turning, use a stiff brush to brush all the seams and edges. Brush the pile away from the seam line to fluff it back up and hide the seam underneath. This is the final step that makes the seams disappear into the fur. Brush in the direction of the nap so the pile lies smoothly.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does my faux fur shed so much when I sew it?

Shedding usually means pile is getting caught in the needle or presser foot. Trim the pile away from seam allowances before sewing, brush it away from the seam line just before you stitch, and use a larger needle (size 16 or 18) so it pierces the backing cleanly without dragging fibers. Some faux furs shed more than others — cheaper fabrics with a loose backing shed more than dense, well-made fur.

Can I use a regular presser foot or do I need a special one?

A standard presser foot works fine for most faux fur. If your machine struggles to feed the thick pile, try a walking foot, which feeds the top and bottom layers at the same speed. A Teflon presser foot also helps if the fur is sticking. Test on a scrap first to see whether your current setup works before buying a new foot.

What stitch length should I use?

Use 2.5 to 3.0 millimeters for most faux fur. A longer stitch reduces the number of needle holes in the backing, which keeps it stronger. If your fur is very thick or dense, you may need to go to 3.0 or even 3.5 millimeters. Test on a scrap to see what works without skipping stitches.

Do I have to trim the pile from seam allowances?

You do not have to, but your seams will be bulky and visible if you do not. Trimming the pile takes extra time but makes the difference between a homemade look and a finished look. If you are making a garment where seams will not show (like a stuffed animal), you can skip this step.

Can I wash a faux fur garment I sewed?

Check the care label on your faux fur fabric — most can be hand-washed in cool water with mild soap and air-dried. Do not use hot water, bleach, or a dryer, as these can melt or damage the pile. Brush the fur gently while it dries to keep it fluffy.