The Basic Method: Sewing Hexagon Edges Together

Sewing hexagons together means joining the flat edges of one hexagon to the flat edges of another, building outward into larger shapes. The simplest approach is to place two hexagons with right sides facing each other, pin along one edge, and sew a straight seam from corner to corner using a standard running stitch (by hand) or a straight stitch on your machine. You remove the pins as you go, backstitch at both ends to lock the thread, and then open the two hexagons like a book so the seam sits between them.

The key is sewing from corner to corner of that single edge, not beyond it. If you sew past the corner, you'll lock the fabric at an angle and the hexagon won't lie flat when you add more pieces around it. Stop exactly where the two edges meet, backstitch, and cut your thread.

Most sewers use a quarter-inch seam allowance — the distance from the raw edge of the fabric to your stitch line. This is standard on most sewing machines and gives you enough room to work without the seam showing on the finished piece. If you're hand-sewing, aim for stitches about one-eighth inch apart along that quarter-inch line.

Key Takeaways

  • Sew hexagons edge-to-edge with right sides facing, stitching from corner to corner of a single edge only.
  • Use a quarter-inch seam allowance and backstitch at the start and end of each seam to prevent unraveling.
  • Press seams flat after sewing each pair so the fabric lies smooth and you can see where to attach the next hexagon.
  • Build outward in rings: sew pairs together first, then join pairs into larger units, rather than attaching one hexagon at a time.
  • Hexagons naturally form flower shapes (one center hexagon surrounded by six) and can be joined into honeycomb patterns or irregular designs.

Pressing Seams Flat Between Each Step

After you sew two hexagons together, press the seam with an iron before you attach the next piece. Lay the joined hexagons flat on your ironing board, seam-side down, and press gently with medium heat. This flattens the seam, removes wrinkles, and makes it much easier to see exactly where your next edge should line up.

You can press the seam to one side (usually toward the darker fabric) or press it open so it lies flat on both sides. Pressing open is slightly stronger for piecing because it distributes the bulk of the seam, but either method works. The important thing is doing it after every seam, not waiting until the end.

Building Outward in Rings Rather Than One at a Time

The fastest way to join many hexagons is to build in stages. First, sew pairs of hexagons together. Then sew those pairs into larger units — for example, a strip of four hexagons. Finally, join the strips or units into your finished shape. This approach is faster than trying to attach one hexagon to a growing cluster because you have fewer angles to match and the fabric stays flatter.

If you're making a flower pattern (one hexagon in the center surrounded by six), sew the six outer hexagons into a ring first by joining them edge-to-edge in a circle. Then attach that ring to the center hexagon. The seams will meet at a single point in the middle, and you can reinforce that spot with a few extra stitches by hand if needed.

For a honeycomb pattern, sew hexagons into rows, then join the rows together. This keeps the grain of the fabric consistent and makes the finished piece less likely to stretch or distort.

Matching Corners When Hexagons Meet at a Point

When three hexagons come together, their corners meet at a single point. This is where precision matters most. Before you sew, pin all three hexagons so their corners line up exactly at that center point. Use a pin pushed straight through all three layers at the meeting point, then add pins along each edge to hold the fabric in place.

When you sew, stitch slowly and stop exactly at that center point — don't sew past it. Backstitch, cut your thread, and move to the next seam. If the corners don't line up perfectly, the seams will bunch or the fabric will pucker. If this happens, you can carefully remove a few stitches with a seam ripper, adjust the fabric, and resew.

Hand-Sewing Versus Machine-Sewing Hexagons

Hand-sewing hexagons gives you more control over where the needle goes, especially at corners and where multiple pieces meet. You can stop mid-seam, adjust the fabric, and continue without the machine pulling the fabric out of alignment. Hand-sewing is slower but produces very flat, precise seams if you take small, even stitches.

Machine-sewing is faster and produces a stronger seam because the thread is locked by the machine's tension. The trade-off is that you have less control if the fabric shifts. To machine-sew hexagons successfully, use a walking foot (a presser foot that feeds fabric evenly from top and bottom) and go slowly, especially around corners. Stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, adjust the fabric, lower the foot, and continue.

Many sewers use a hybrid approach: machine-sew the main seams and hand-sew the tricky spots where three or more pieces meet. This combines speed with precision.

Avoiding Puckered Seams and Stretched Edges

Hexagons have edges that run in different directions relative to the grain of the fabric. Some edges run along the grain (stable) and some run across it (stretchy). When you sew, the stretchy edges can shift and create puckers. To prevent this, pin frequently — at least every inch along the seam — and sew slowly so the fabric feeds evenly.

If you're using a rotary cutter and ruler to cut your hexagons from fabric, make sure all your pieces are cut the same size. Even a small difference (one-sixteenth inch) will compound as you add more hexagons, and corners won't line up by the time you've sewn six or eight pieces together.

If puckering happens, remove the seam with a seam ripper, re-pin more carefully, and sew again. It's faster to redo one seam than to try to fix puckers in a finished piece.

Finishing Raw Edges on the Back

Once your hexagons are sewn together, the raw edges on the back are exposed. If you're making a quilt, you'll cover these with backing fabric and binding. If you're making a garment or a decorative piece that shows both sides, you can finish the edges by hand-stitching a binding strip around the perimeter, or by folding the raw edges inward and topstitching them down with thread that matches the fabric.

For a quilt, layer your hexagon piece with batting and backing fabric, quilt through all three layers (either by hand or machine), and then bind the edges with a strip of fabric sewn to the front and folded to the back. This is the standard finish and keeps everything from fraying.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size should my hexagons be?

Hexagon size depends on your project. Quilting hexagons are typically one to two inches across (measured flat edge to flat edge). Smaller hexagons (half inch to one inch) are fiddly to sew by hand but work well on a machine. Larger hexagons (three inches or more) are easier to handle but require more fabric and take longer to fill a space.

Do I need to use templates to cut hexagons?

Templates help you cut consistent shapes. You can buy plastic hexagon templates, use a rotary cutter with a hexagon ruler, or print a paper template and trace around it. Consistency matters because even small cutting errors add up when you're joining many pieces. If your hexagons vary in size, corners won't meet cleanly.

Can I sew hexagons into any shape I want?

Yes. Hexagons naturally form flower patterns and honeycomb grids, but you can arrange them into irregular shapes, stars, or custom designs. Just plan your layout on paper first so you know how many hexagons you need and where each seam goes. Irregular designs require more seam-matching at odd angles, so they're trickier than regular patterns.

What happens if my corners don't line up perfectly?

Small misalignments (one-sixteenth inch or less) are normal and usually invisible in the finished piece. Larger gaps mean you need to remove stitches, adjust the fabric, and resew. Use a seam ripper to carefully cut and pull out the thread, then pin and sew again. It's worth taking the time to get corners right because puckers and gaps get worse as you add more pieces.

Should I use a specific thread color?

Thread color doesn't affect how hexagons sew together, but it affects how visible the seams are. Use thread that matches your fabric if you want seams to blend in, or use a contrasting color if you want the seams to show as a design element. For piecing, many quilters use neutral gray or tan thread that works with multiple fabric colors.