The basic method: two fabric circles, thread, and a needle

A hand-sewn ball is two circles of fabric stitched together with the seams on the inside, then turned right-side out and stuffed. You sew the opening closed by hand. The whole project takes about 30 minutes once you have your materials, and you need only a needle, thread, scissors, and fabric scraps—no machine required.

The stitch you use is a running stitch (the simplest hand stitch: needle in, needle out, repeat in a straight line). You can make a ball any size from a marble to a playground ball, depending on how large you cut your circles. Most people start with circles about 4 to 5 inches across, which makes a ball roughly the size of a tennis ball.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical circles of fabric, pin them together with the pretty sides facing inward, and sew around the edge with a running stitch, leaving a 2-inch opening.
  • Turn the sewn fabric inside-out through the opening so the seams are hidden, then stuff firmly with fiberfill, old fabric scraps, or newspaper.
  • Close the opening with a ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch), which hides the seam and creates a smooth, finished edge.
  • Test your seams before stuffing by filling the ball with water to check for leaks, especially if you plan to use it with children or pets.

Cutting and pinning your fabric circles

Start with two pieces of fabric the same size and shape. Use a plate, bowl, or compass to draw a circle on your fabric, then cut along the line with scissors. Cotton, fleece, felt, and quilting fabric all work well. Avoid stretchy fabrics like spandex for your first ball—they are harder to control.

Place the two circles with the right sides facing each other (the pretty printed or colored side should be on the inside, facing inward). Pin them together around the edge so they do not slip while you sew. Three or four pins evenly spaced is enough.

Sewing the seam with a running stitch

Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Start at any point on the edge of the pinned circles. Push the needle through both layers of fabric, about a quarter-inch from the edge. Bring it back out a quarter-inch away, then push it back in. Continue this in and out motion all the way around the circle.

When you reach the point where you started, stop. Do not sew all the way around—leave a 2-inch opening. This opening is how you will turn the ball right-side out and stuff it later. Tie off your thread with a knot on the inside.

Your stitches do not have to be perfect. Uneven stitches are normal for hand sewing. What matters is that the seam holds and does not leak if the ball will hold liquid or get wet.

Turning the ball right-side out and stuffing it

Reach through the 2-inch opening and grab the fabric on the opposite side of the ball. Gently pull the whole thing inside-out through the opening. The seams are now hidden on the inside, and the pretty side of the fabric faces outward. Push out the edges with your fingers so the ball is smooth and round.

Fill the ball with fiberfill (the fluffy polyester stuffing sold in craft stores), or use scraps of old fabric, newspaper, or plastic bags. Stuff it firmly but not so tight that the seams strain. A tennis-ball-sized ball usually needs about a handful of fiberfill.

Closing the opening with a ladder stitch

The ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch or ladder seam) closes the opening invisibly. Thread your needle again and tie a knot. Slide the needle inside the fold of fabric at one edge of the opening, so the knot stays hidden inside the ball. Bring the needle out through the fold.

Now stitch across the opening: push the needle into the fold on the opposite side, slide it along inside the fold for about a quarter-inch, and bring it back out. Then go back to the first side and repeat. The needle travels inside the fold of fabric, so from the outside you see only a thin line. After every three or four stitches, gently pull the thread to close the opening a little more.

When the opening is closed, tie off the thread inside the ball and trim the excess. The seam should be nearly invisible from the outside.

Testing the ball before you use it

Before you give the ball to a child or pet, fill it with water and hold it over a sink or bucket for a minute. If water leaks through, you have a gap in your seam. Let the water drain, dry the ball, and sew over the leaky spot with a few extra stitches.

If the ball will be used roughly or outdoors, reinforce the seams by sewing over them a second time with a second line of stitches just inside the first one. This is called a backstitch and makes the seam much stronger.

Variations: different sizes, shapes, and stuffing

Once you have made one ball, you can adjust the size by cutting larger or smaller circles. A 6-inch circle makes a ball about the size of a baseball. An 8-inch circle makes a soft play ball. For a smaller ball (marble-sized), use circles 2 inches across and a needle with fine thread.

You can also make balls from different fabrics in the same project: sew together one circle of cotton and one of fleece for a textured ball, or use patterned fabric on one side and solid on the other. Some people make balls from old t-shirt scraps or denim for durability.

For stuffing, fiberfill is safest for toys that will be handled by young children because it will not compress into a hard lump. Fabric scraps work well for practice balls or for balls that will be decorative. Never use small beads or dried beans as stuffing for toys that might be chewed or torn open.

Frequently Asked Questions

What size needle and thread should I use?

For most fabric and a tennis-ball-sized project, use a size 7 or 8 hand-sewing needle and all-purpose thread. Thicker thread (like embroidery thread) is easier to see and control if you are learning. Thinner thread is less visible in the finished seam but requires a smaller needle and more patience.

Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand sewing?

Yes. Sew the two circles together on a machine using a straight stitch, leaving the same 2-inch opening. Machine stitches are faster and stronger, but you still close the opening by hand using a ladder stitch so it looks finished.

What if my stitches are uneven or the ball looks lumpy?

Uneven stitches are normal and do not affect how the ball works. If the ball is lumpy, the stuffing is probably bunched in one spot. Gently massage the ball to spread the stuffing evenly, or open it up, redistribute the filling, and close it again.

How do I make the ball waterproof?

Hand-sewn fabric balls are not waterproof because thread and fabric absorb water. If you need a waterproof ball, sew the fabric ball first, then coat it with waterproof fabric sealant (sold in craft stores) or wrap it in waterproof tape. Test it again with water before use.

Can I make a ball from felt without sewing?

Felt can be glued instead of sewn using fabric glue, but the seam will not be as strong and may come apart with heavy use. Sewing is more durable. If you do glue, explore glue to both edges, press them together, and let it dry for 24 hours before stuffing.