A bandeau top is a tube of fabric that sits across your chest

A bandeau top is a sleeveless, strapless garment that wraps around your torso from armpit to armpit. It has no closures — you pull it on over your head like a tank top, and the fabric's stretch holds it in place. The finished piece is usually 6 to 8 inches tall, though you can make it shorter or taller depending on your preference and the neckline you want.

The construction is straightforward: you cut two pieces of fabric, sew them together at the sides, and finish the top and bottom edges with elastic or a fold-over binding. The entire project takes two to four hours, depending on your sewing speed and whether you use a serger. You will need a sewing machine, thread, elastic, and fabric with at least 10 percent stretch — cotton jersey, lycra blends, or swimsuit fabric all work well.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure your bust and subtract 2 to 3 inches to account for the fabric's stretch, then cut two rectangular pieces at that width and your desired height plus seam allowance.
  • Sew the two pieces together at both side seams using a stretch stitch or zigzag, then try it on before finishing the edges.
  • Fold the top and bottom edges down and sew them flat, or use fold-over elastic or binding tape for a more finished look.
  • Elastic at the top and bottom edges keeps the bandeau from rolling and sliding, and a 1-inch-wide elastic works for most body types.

Measure your bust and choose your fabric width

Measure around your bust at the fullest point with a soft measuring tape, keeping it snug but not tight. Write down that number. Subtract 2 to 3 inches from it — this is your finished bandeau width. The subtraction accounts for the fabric's natural stretch; if you cut a piece the same width as your bust, it will be too loose and will slide down.

Choose a fabric with at least 10 percent stretch. Jersey knit, which is what most t-shirts are made from, works well and costs $6 to $12 per yard. Lycra blends and swimsuit fabrics stretch more and recover faster, so they hold their shape longer. Avoid woven fabrics like cotton poplin or linen — they do not stretch and the bandeau will be uncomfortable and will not stay up.

Buy 1 to 1.5 yards of fabric. A bandeau top uses very little yardage, so you can often use fabric scraps or repurpose an old t-shirt or tank top if it is large enough.

Cut and prepare your fabric pieces

Fold your fabric in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing each other. Measure and mark a rectangle that is your finished width (bust measurement minus 2 to 3 inches) by your desired height plus 0.5 inches for seam allowance. For example, if your bust is 36 inches and you want a 7-inch-tall bandeau, cut a rectangle 33 inches wide by 7.5 inches tall.

Cut through both layers of fabric. You now have two identical rectangular pieces. Check that both pieces are the same size — uneven pieces will twist when you sew them together. If you are using a directional print or stripe, make sure both pieces face the same direction.

Lay both pieces flat with the right sides facing each other. This is the position you will sew from.

Sew the side seams with a stretch stitch

Set your sewing machine to a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch (width 2 to 3, length 2 to 2.5). A straight stitch will snap when you pull the fabric on and off, so the stretch or zigzag stitch is essential. Thread your machine with thread that matches your fabric.

Sew the two short ends (the sides) together with a 0.5-inch seam allowance. Sew one side seam, then turn the tube inside out and sew the other side seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam. You now have a tube of fabric.

Try the bandeau on before you finish the edges. Pull it on over your head and check the fit. It should sit snugly without rolling or sliding, and it should not pinch. If it is too tight, you cut the width too narrow — you cannot fix this without starting over. If it is too loose, you can tighten it slightly by adding elastic to the top and bottom edges, which will be your next step.

Finish the top edge with elastic or binding

The top edge can be finished three ways: folded flat, finished with fold-over elastic, or finished with bias binding tape. Folded flat is the fastest. Fold the raw edge down 0.5 inches to the inside of the tube, press it flat with an iron, and sew it down with a stretch stitch. This creates a clean, straightforward edge.

Fold-over elastic is more durable and adds a professional finish. Cut a piece of 1-inch-wide fold-over elastic to the length of your top edge (your finished width). Fold the elastic in half lengthwise and slide the raw edge of the bandeau into the fold. Pin it in place, then sew it down with a stretch stitch, sewing close to the edge of the elastic. The elastic will gather slightly as you sew, which is normal and helps the bandeau stay in place.

Bias binding tape works the same way as fold-over elastic but gives a flatter finish. Fold the tape in half around the raw edge, pin, and sew with a stretch stitch.

Finish the bottom edge the same way

Repeat the process for the bottom edge. If you folded the top edge flat, fold the bottom edge flat. If you used elastic on top, use elastic on the bottom. Matching the two edges keeps the bandeau balanced and prevents it from twisting.

Press both edges flat with an iron after sewing. This helps the elastic or binding lay smoothly and makes the bandeau look more finished.

Try it on and adjust the fit

Put the bandeau on and check the fit one more time. It should sit at the same height all the way around your torso, with no rolling or sliding. If the top edge rolls inward, the elastic is too loose — you can add a second row of elastic inside the first one, or you can unpick the elastic and sew it tighter. If the bandeau slides down, the width is too wide, and you will need to take in the side seams.

If the fit is good, trim any loose threads and you are done. A bandeau top lasts longer if you wash it in cold water and lay it flat to dry, because heat and the dryer can damage the elastic and cause the fabric to lose its stretch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a bandeau top without a sewing machine?

You can hand-sew a bandeau top, but it takes much longer — usually six to eight hours. Use a backstitch for the side seams and a running stitch for the elastic edges. The seams will be less stretchy than machine-sewn seams, so test the fit carefully before you finish the edges.

What if my fabric does not have enough stretch?

Woven fabrics without stretch will not work for a bandeau top because the garment relies on the fabric's elasticity to stay up. If you have already cut the pieces, you can add wide elastic to the top and bottom edges to compensate, but the bandeau will still be less comfortable and less likely to stay in place.

How do I make the bandeau shorter or taller?

Adjust the height measurement when you cut the rectangles. A 4-inch bandeau sits higher on the chest and works well for smaller frames. A 9-inch bandeau covers more and works well for larger frames or if you want more coverage. Add 0.5 inches to your chosen height for seam allowance.

Can I add straps to turn it into a regular tank top?

Yes. After you finish the top edge, cut two strips of fabric 1.5 inches wide and 12 to 14 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise, sew the long edge closed, and turn it right-side out. Sew one end to the inside of the front top edge and the other end to the inside of the back top edge, spacing them about 4 inches apart. Finish the strap ends with a small zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.

How much elastic do I need?

You need enough elastic to go around your finished bandeau width (your bust measurement minus 2 to 3 inches). Buy 1-inch-wide fold-over elastic or bias binding tape. One package usually contains 3 to 5 yards, which is more than enough for one bandeau top.