A beanie is one of the easiest hats to sew by hand or machine

A beanie is a tube of fabric sewn closed at the top and folded to create a cuff. You need two pieces of fabric, a needle or sewing machine, thread, and scissors. The whole project takes two to four hours for a beginner, depending on whether you use a machine. No pattern is required — you measure the head, cut two rectangles, sew them together, and fold the top closed. The result is a hat that fits any head size you measure for.

The simplest beanies use a single layer of knit fabric like jersey or fleece. Knit stretches, so it fits snugly without a tight seam. If you use woven fabric like cotton, you will need to add elastic or a drawstring at the cuff to keep it from sliding off. Most beginners start with fleece because it does not fray, does not require a special needle, and is forgiving if your seams are not perfectly straight.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure around the head where the hat will sit, subtract one inch for stretch, and use that number as the width of your fabric rectangle.
  • Cut two identical rectangles of fabric, sew them together on three sides with a half-inch seam, and turn the hat inside-out through the opening.
  • Fold the top closed by hand using a ladder stitch, or fold the fabric inward and topstitch it on a machine for a faster finish.
  • Fleece and jersey knit are the easiest fabrics for a first beanie because they do not fray and do not require special needles.
  • A finished beanie takes about two hours by hand or one hour on a machine, not counting time to gather materials.

Measure the head and calculate your fabric size

Use a soft measuring tape around the widest part of the head where the hat will sit — usually just above the ears and eyebrows. Write down that number. Subtract one inch from it. That is the width of your fabric rectangle. For example, if the head measures 22 inches, your fabric width is 21 inches.

The length of the rectangle determines how far down the hat will cover. A typical beanie is 8 to 10 inches long before you fold it. If you want the hat to cover the ears, use 10 inches. If you want it to sit higher on the forehead, use 8 inches. Write down both measurements — you will need them when you cut.

Cut two identical rectangles and prepare your materials

Lay your fabric flat on a clean surface. Use a ruler or measuring tape to mark the width and length you calculated. Cut two rectangles of exactly the same size. If you are using fleece, the edges will not fray, so you do not need to finish them. If you are using cotton or another woven fabric, you can finish the raw edges with pinking shears (scissors that cut a zigzag pattern) or a zigzag stitch on your machine, though this is not required for a beanie.

Thread your needle or sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric color. If you are sewing by hand, use a length of thread about 18 inches long — longer than that and it will tangle. If you are using a machine, wind a bobbin and thread the machine according to your machine's manual. Set the stitch length to medium (about 2.5 millimeters on most machines).

Sew the two rectangles together on three sides

Place the two rectangles with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin or hold them together. Sew along three sides with a half-inch seam allowance, leaving one short end open. The open end is where you will turn the hat right-side-out later. If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch or backstitch, pushing the needle through both layers and pulling the thread tight after each stitch. If you are using a machine, sew slowly and keep the edge of the fabric aligned with the half-inch mark on your presser foot.

When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot (if using a machine), rotate the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. This creates a sharp corner instead of a rounded one. Backstitch at the end of each seam to lock the thread in place.

Turn the hat right-side-out and press the seams flat

Reach through the open end and pull the fabric inside-out. The right sides are now facing outward. Use your fingers to push the corners out so they are sharp and square. If you have a pressing tool or the handle of a wooden spoon, use it to gently push from the inside — do not poke through the fabric.

Lay the hat flat and press the seams with your hand or an iron set to low heat. This makes the edges lie flat and makes the next step easier. If you are using an iron, place a thin cloth between the iron and the fabric to avoid melting it, especially if your fabric is fleece or synthetic.

Close the open end by hand or machine

You now have a tube with one open end. You can close it two ways: by hand with a ladder stitch, or on a machine with a topstitch. The ladder stitch is invisible from the outside and takes about 15 minutes by hand. The topstitch is visible but takes 2 minutes on a machine.

By hand: Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and pin them. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Bring the needle up through the fold on one side, then across to the opposite side and up through that fold. Slide the needle along inside the fold for about half an inch, then back across to the first side. Repeat this zigzag pattern along the entire opening. The thread will be hidden inside the fold. When you reach the end, tie off the thread on the inside.

On a machine: Fold the raw edges inward by half an inch and pin them closed. Sew along the opening with a straight stitch, staying as close to the fold as possible. This creates a visible seam on the outside, but it is fast and strong. Backstitch at both ends.

Fold the cuff and try on the finished beanie

Fold the bottom edge of the hat up by 2 to 3 inches to create a cuff. This fold is where the hat will sit on the head. Try it on and adjust the fold height until it covers your ears or sits where you want it. If the hat is too loose, it may be because you did not subtract enough for stretch, or because your fabric is not stretchy enough. Knit fabrics like jersey and fleece have built-in stretch. Woven fabrics like cotton do not, and may need a drawstring or elastic sewn into the cuff to stay in place.

If you want to keep the cuff folded permanently, you can sew it down with a few stitches on the inside, or topstitch it on the outside for a decorative look. Most people leave it loose so they can adjust the fit or unfold it on warmer days.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a beanie without a pattern?

Yes. A beanie is just a rectangle folded into a tube. Measure the head, subtract one inch, and that is your width. Choose a length between 8 and 10 inches depending on how much of the head you want to cover. Cut two rectangles, sew three sides, turn it inside-out, and close the opening. No pattern needed.

What fabric is easiest for a beginner?

Fleece or jersey knit. Both stretch, so the hat will fit snugly without tight seams. Neither frays, so you do not have to finish the edges. Fleece is thicker and warmer. Jersey is thinner and more breathable. Avoid woven fabrics like cotton for your first beanie — they do not stretch and require elastic or a drawstring to stay on.

How do I keep the beanie from sliding off?

If you used knit fabric, the stretch should hold it in place. If you used woven fabric, sew a length of elastic or a drawstring into the cuff. Measure the elastic around the head where the hat sits, subtract half an inch, and sew it to the inside of the cuff with a zigzag stitch. A drawstring is sewn into a casing (a tunnel of fabric) at the cuff and tied under the chin.

Can I add a lining to my beanie?

Yes. Cut two more rectangles from a soft fabric like fleece or cotton, sew them together the same way, and insert the lining inside the outer hat before you close the opening. Sew the opening closed through all four layers. This adds warmth and hides the seams on the inside.

What if my seams are crooked or uneven?

On a beanie, small imperfections are not visible once you wear it. The cuff covers the bottom seams, and the fold at the top hides the closing seam. If a seam is so crooked that it pulls the hat out of shape, you can pick out the stitches with a seam ripper and sew it again. Otherwise, wear it as is — most handmade beanies have character in their imperfections.