A beret is two fabric circles sewn together with a drawstring casing

A beret is simpler to sew than it looks. You make two circles of fabric, sew them together inside-out, turn them right-side-out, add a drawstring casing around the edge, and thread elastic through it. The whole project takes two to four hours for a beginner, and you need only a sewing machine, scissors, thread, and elastic. No pattern is required—you draw your own circles.

The finished beret sits flat on your head because the elastic gathers the fabric at the back. The front stays smooth and structured. You can make one from cotton, linen, wool, or any stable fabric that does not fray too badly. Avoid thin knits and very stretchy materials; they will not hold their shape.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical circles of fabric 11 to 12 inches across; this size works for most adult heads and can be adjusted by changing the circle diameter.
  • Sew the circles together with a half-inch seam allowance, leaving a 3-inch opening for turning, then turn the beret right-side-out through that opening.
  • Stitch a casing (a narrow tunnel) around the inside edge of the beret, leaving a small gap to thread elastic through.
  • Thread 18 to 20 inches of quarter-inch elastic through the casing and sew the ends together, then close the gap in the casing.
  • The beret will bunch and wrinkle at first; wear it and steam it gently to shape it, or press it flat under a book overnight.

Measure and cut two identical circles

Start by deciding what size beret you want. For an adult, an 11-inch diameter circle is standard. If you have a small head, try 10.5 inches; if you have a large head, try 12 inches. You can always adjust the elastic later if the fit is not quite right.

Draw a circle on paper using a compass, a string and pencil, or by tracing around a plate or bowl. Cut out the paper circle. Fold your fabric in half, then in half again, so you have four layers. Pin the paper circle to the folded fabric and cut through all layers. You now have two identical circles. Do not cut them apart yet—leave them pinned together so they do not shift.

Before you sew, mark a 3-inch opening on one circle with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. This is where you will turn the beret right-side-out later. Mark it on the side that will be the inside of the beret (the side you want hidden).

Sew the two circles together

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with medium length (about 2.5 millimeters). Thread it with thread that matches your fabric. Place the two circles with their right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Pin around the edge, leaving the 3-inch opening unpinned.

Sew around the circle with a half-inch seam allowance. Start at one end of the opening, sew all the way around, and stop at the other end of the opening. Backstitch at both ends to lock the thread. Remove the pins as you go. This seam holds the two circles together and forms the outer edge of the beret.

Trim the seam allowance down to a quarter-inch all the way around. This reduces bulk when you turn the beret right-side-out. Clip small notches into the seam allowance around the curve—about every half-inch—so the fabric will not bunch when you turn it. Be careful not to cut into the stitching itself.

Turn the beret right-side-out and press it

Reach through the 3-inch opening and grab the fabric on the opposite side of the circle. Pull gently and steadily until the entire beret turns inside-out. This takes patience; do not yank or you may tear a seam. Once it is turned, use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle to gently push out the curve so the edge is smooth and round.

Press the beret flat with an iron on a medium setting. Pay special attention to the seam edge—press it so it lies flat and crisp. This makes the next step much easier. Let the beret cool completely before you move it.

Stitch the casing for the elastic

The casing is a narrow tunnel sewn into the inside of the beret, close to the edge. The elastic threads through this tunnel and gathers the fabric. Measure half an inch down from the outer edge of the beret and mark a line all the way around with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. This is where your casing will sit.

Fold the raw edge of the opening inward by half an inch and press it flat with your iron. Pin the folded edge closed. Now sew a line of stitching half an inch from the outer edge of the beret, all the way around. This creates the casing. Stop about 1 inch before you reach the starting point—do not sew this last inch closed. This gap is where you will thread the elastic through.

Backstitch at both ends to lock the thread. Remove the pins. You now have a tunnel running around the inside of the beret, with a 1-inch gap in it.

Thread elastic through the casing and find it

Cut a piece of quarter-inch elastic 18 to 20 inches long. Attach a safety pin to one end. Feed the safety pin into the gap in the casing and push it all the way around the tunnel, gathering the fabric as you go. This takes a few minutes of patient pushing. The safety pin will eventually come back out through the same gap.

Remove the safety pin. You now have elastic running through the casing with both ends sticking out of the gap. Try the beret on. If it feels too tight, pull the elastic out a bit; if it feels too loose, pull it tighter. Overlap the two ends of the elastic by half an inch and sew them together with a few stitches, going back and forth several times to make sure they do not slip apart.

Tuck the joined elastic back into the casing. Sew the 1-inch gap closed with a ladder stitch (an invisible stitch that closes the opening from the inside) or a straightforward whip stitch. Backstitch at the end to lock the thread.

Shape and wear your beret

The beret will look wrinkled and lumpy at first. This is normal. Put it on and adjust it so it sits the way you want—tilted to one side, straight, or pulled back. Wear it for a day or two and the fabric will begin to hold its shape.

To speed up shaping, steam the beret gently with a handheld steamer or by holding it over steam from a kettle (be careful not to burn yourself). You can also press it flat under a heavy book overnight, then shape it by hand. Wool berets hold their shape better than cotton, so if you want a beret that keeps its form without constant adjustment, choose a wool or wool-blend fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric works best for a beret?

Wool, cotton twill, linen, and cotton canvas all work well. Avoid thin knits, jersey, and very stretchy fabrics—they will not hold their shape. If you want a structured beret that looks polished, wool or a wool blend is your best choice. Cotton and linen are easier to sew and less expensive.

Can I make a beret without a sewing machine?

Yes, but it takes much longer. Hand-sew the circles together using a backstitch with small, even stitches. The casing and closing the opening are easier by hand than the initial seam. Budget four to six hours instead of two to four. Your stitches will be visible on the inside, which is fine since no one sees that side when you wear it.

What if the beret is too big or too small?

If it is too big, pull the elastic tighter before sewing the ends together. If it is too small, loosen the elastic. You can also remake it with a different circle size—try 10.5 inches for a smaller beret or 12 inches for a larger one. The elastic can only adjust the fit so much.

Do I need to hem the opening before I sew the casing?

No, but it helps. Folding the raw edge inward and pressing it before you sew the casing makes the inside look neater and prevents fraying. If your fabric does not fray much, you can skip this step, but it only adds a few minutes and makes the finished beret look more polished.

How do I keep the beret from sliding off?

The elastic should sit snugly against your head without being painful. If it keeps sliding, the elastic is too loose. Pull it tighter before sewing the ends together. You can also add a small comb or gripper tape to the inside of the beret, but this is usually not necessary if the elastic is fitted correctly.