A bib is one of the easiest sewing projects to start with

A bib is a rectangle of fabric with ties sewn to the sides and a curved neckline cut out. You can make one in under an hour with just a needle, thread, scissors, and two pieces of fabric. No pattern is required—you measure and cut as you go. The whole project teaches you four skills: cutting straight lines, sewing a seam, turning fabric right-side out, and topstitching.

This guide walks you through making a bib for a baby or toddler. The finished size is about 8 inches wide and 10 inches long. If you need a larger bib, you can scale up the measurements by an inch or two.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two rectangles of fabric 8 inches wide by 10 inches long, then pin them together with the pretty sides facing each other.
  • Sew three sides with a quarter-inch seam, leaving the top edge open so you can turn the bib right-side out.
  • Trim the seam allowance at the corners, cut a shallow curve at the neckline, then turn the bib inside out through the opening.
  • Sew the opening closed by hand or machine, then attach two fabric strips as ties at the side seams.
  • Topstitch around the entire edge to flatten the seams and make the bib look finished.

What you need before you start

Gather these supplies: two pieces of cotton fabric (old sheets, quilting cotton, or flannel work well), thread that matches your fabric, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a pencil or fabric marker. If you are using a sewing machine, thread it before you begin. If you are sewing by hand, thread your needle with about 18 inches of thread and tie a knot at the end.

Prewash your fabric if it is new—cotton shrinks slightly when you wash it for the first time, and you want the bib to stay the same size after the person wearing it gets it wet. Dry it and press it flat with an iron or by laying it under a heavy book for an hour.

Cut the fabric rectangles and mark the neckline

Lay one piece of fabric flat on a table. Using a measuring tape and pencil, mark a rectangle 8 inches wide and 10 inches long. Cut along the lines with scissors. Repeat with the second piece of fabric so you have two identical rectangles.

Stack the two rectangles on top of each other with the pretty sides facing each other (this is called "right sides together"). Pin them together around all four edges, spacing pins about 2 inches apart. The pins hold the layers in place while you sew.

Now mark where the neckline will be. On the top edge of the pinned stack, measure 2 inches in from the left corner and mark a point with your pencil. Measure 2 inches in from the right corner and mark another point. These two points are where the curve begins. Draw a shallow curve connecting them—it should dip down about 1.5 inches at the center. This curve will be cut away after you sew, so it does not have to be perfect.

Sew three sides and trim the corners

Using a sewing machine or needle and thread, sew along the left side of the bib, starting at the bottom corner. Keep your seam a quarter inch away from the edge—this is called a quarter-inch seam allowance. Sew up to the point where the neckline curve begins, then stop and backstitch (sew backward a few stitches) to lock the thread.

Move to the right side and sew from the bottom corner up to where the neckline curve begins on that side. Backstitch to lock the thread. Then sew along the bottom edge from left corner to right corner, backstitching at both ends. Do not sew the top edge yet—you will leave it open so you can turn the bib right-side out later.

Remove the pins. Using small scissors, trim the seam allowance at the two bottom corners diagonally, cutting away the extra fabric about a quarter inch from the stitching. This prevents the corners from bunching up when you turn the bib right-side out. Be careful not to cut through the stitches themselves.

Cut the neckline and turn the bib right-side out

Using the pencil line you drew earlier as a guide, cut away the neckline curve. Cut slowly and stay about a quarter inch away from your stitching line. This seam allowance will roll inside the neckline and make it look neat.

Reach into the opening at the top of the bib and grab the bottom corner from the inside. Pull gently until the bib starts to turn inside out. Keep pulling until the entire bib is turned right-side out and the pretty fabric is facing outward. Use a pencil eraser or the blunt end of a chopstick to gently push out the bottom corners so they are sharp and square.

Press the bib flat with an iron on low heat, or lay it under a heavy book for 15 minutes. Pay special attention to the edges—press them so they are crisp and flat.

Close the opening and attach the ties

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by a quarter inch and press them flat. Pin the opening closed. Using a needle and thread, sew the opening shut with a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch). Bring the needle up through one folded edge, cross over to the opposite folded edge, and slide the needle inside the fold for about a quarter inch. Come back out and cross over to the first side again. Repeat until the opening is closed. The stitches will be nearly invisible.

Cut two strips of fabric for ties, each about 1.5 inches wide and 12 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with the pretty sides together, and sew along the long edge with a quarter-inch seam. Turn each tie right-side out using the same method as the bib. Press flat.

Pin one tie to the left side seam of the bib, about 1 inch down from the neckline. Pin the other tie to the right side seam at the same height. Sew each tie in place with a small rectangle of stitches, backstitching at the start and end to make it strong.

Topstitch the edges for a finished look

Thread your needle or sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric. Starting at one side seam, sew around the entire perimeter of the bib about a quarter inch away from the edge. This is called topstitching. It flattens the seams, makes the bib look professionally finished, and keeps the neckline curve from rolling.

Sew slowly and keep your line as straight as possible. When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot (if using a machine), turn the fabric, lower the presser foot, and continue. When you reach the starting point, backstitch a few stitches and cut the thread.

Wash the finished bib in warm water and dry it. It is now ready to use.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is sewing the seam too close to the edge—this leaves too little fabric to turn right-side out and makes the corners bunch. Always measure a quarter inch from the edge and use a seam guide or mark a line with pencil before you sew.

Another mistake is not trimming the corner seam allowances. If you skip this step, the corners will be thick and lumpy when you turn the bib right-side out. Cut them diagonally as described above.

If your neckline curve is too tight or too deep, it will be uncomfortable to wear. Keep the curve shallow—no more than 1.5 inches deep—and make sure the widest part of the curve is at the center, not off to one side.

If the opening at the top is hard to turn right-side out, make it wider. You can leave the entire top edge open instead of just sewing the sides, which makes turning much easier.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a sewing machine instead of sewing by hand?

Yes. A sewing machine is faster and makes straighter seams. Use a straight stitch and set the stitch length to about 2.5 millimeters. You can sew by hand if you prefer—it just takes longer. Use a running stitch (in and out, in and out) and keep your stitches small and even.

What fabric works best for a bib?

Cotton is easiest to sew and wash. Flannel is soft and absorbent. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey—they are harder to control and the edges will curl. Avoid very thick fabrics like denim unless you have a heavy-duty needle.

How do I make the bib bigger or smaller?

Scale all the measurements equally. For a larger bib, cut rectangles 9 or 10 inches wide instead of 8. For a smaller bib, cut 7 inches wide. Adjust the neckline curve depth proportionally—deeper for a larger bib, shallower for a smaller one.

What if I do not have matching thread?

Use thread that matches the fabric color as closely as possible. If you cannot find an exact match, thread that is one shade darker is less visible than thread that is lighter. You can also use clear or invisible thread, though it is harder to sew with by hand.

Do I have to topstitch, or can I skip that step?

Topstitching is not required, but it makes the bib look more finished and keeps the seams flat. If you skip it, the neckline edge may roll slightly when the bib is washed. If you do topstitch, use thread that matches the fabric so the stitches blend in.