What You Need to Sew a Bonnet

A bonnet is a fabric hat that ties under the chin, with a brim or hood that frames the face. You can sew one with a sewing machine or by hand, and the basic construction is the same either way: cut two fabric pieces for the crown, sew them together, attach a brim or ruffle, add ties, and finish the edges. Most bonnets take four to six hours from start to finish, depending on how much hand-sewing you choose to do and whether you add embellishment.

Before you start, gather your materials. You will need fabric (cotton, linen, or quilting cotton work well for beginners), thread that matches your fabric, scissors, pins, a needle or sewing machine, a tape measure, and pattern paper or a commercial bonnet pattern. A seam ripper, iron, and pressing ham are helpful but not essential. If you are sewing by machine, thread your machine and test it on scrap fabric first.

Key Takeaways

  • A bonnet crown is made from two fabric pieces sewn together, then turned right-side out and pressed flat before the brim is attached.
  • The brim or ruffle is sewn to the crown opening with the right sides facing, then turned and topstitched to create a finished edge.
  • Ties are cut from bias tape or folded fabric strips and sewn into the seam where the brim meets the crown.
  • Hand-sewing the final topstitch gives a softer, more traditional look than machine-sewing, but takes longer.
  • Pressing each seam flat as you go prevents puckering and makes the bonnet sit smoothly on the head.

Cutting Your Pattern and Fabric

Start with a pattern. You can read a free bonnet pattern from sites like Etsy or Craftsy, trace one from a sewing book, or draft your own. A basic bonnet pattern includes a crown piece (cut twice), a brim or ruffle piece (cut once or twice depending on the style), and a tie strip. If you are drafting your own, measure around the head where the bonnet will sit (usually 18 to 22 inches for an adult, smaller for a child), then add half an inch for seam allowance on all sides.

Lay your pattern on the fabric and pin it down. Cut slowly and follow the grain line marked on the pattern — this keeps the fabric from stretching. Cut two crown pieces, one or two brim pieces depending on your pattern, and two tie strips about 2 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches long. Mark the seam line with a pencil or fabric pen if your pattern does not have one printed on it. Seam allowance is usually half an inch, but check your pattern.

Sewing the Crown Together

Place the two crown pieces with the right sides facing (the pretty sides touching). Pin around the curved edges, leaving the bottom open where the brim will attach. Sew along the pinned line using a half-inch seam allowance. If you are using a machine, use a straight stitch and backstitch at the start and end. If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch or backstitch, keeping your stitches small and even — about one-eighth inch apart.

Once the seam is sewn, trim the seam allowance down to one-quarter inch to reduce bulk, especially around curves. Clip into the seam allowance at the curves (cut small notches toward the seam line without cutting through the thread) so the fabric will lie flat when you turn it right-side out. Turn the crown right-side out through the bottom opening, poke out the corners gently with a blunt tool like a chopstick, and press it flat with an iron. The seam should sit right at the edge.

Attaching the Brim or Ruffle

The brim is the part that sticks out and frames the face. If your pattern calls for a ruffle instead, the method is the same. Take your brim piece and fold it in half lengthwise with the right sides facing, then sew the short ends together to form a loop. Press the seam open. Fold the loop in half again so the raw edges line up, and press — now you have a double-layer brim with finished edges on the outside.

Pin the brim to the bottom opening of the crown with the raw edges lined up and the right sides facing. The brim should be gathered or pleated so it fits the crown opening without bunching. Sew all the way around using a half-inch seam allowance. Press the seam toward the crown. Fold the brim down and away from the crown, then fold the raw seam allowance under and pin it to the inside of the crown. Topstitch by hand or machine close to the fold line to encase the seam. This creates a finished edge and holds the brim in place.

Adding Ties and Finishing Edges

Ties keep the bonnet from blowing off. Cut two strips of fabric or bias tape, each about 2 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches long (adjust the length based on the wearer's preference). Fold each strip in half lengthwise with the right sides facing, sew the long edge, turn right-side out, and press flat. You now have two finished tie strips.

Before you close the bonnet completely, insert the ties into the seam where the brim meets the crown. Open the seam allowance on the inside of the bonnet at the points where you want the ties to sit (usually at the sides, where the bonnet curves down toward the chin). Tuck the raw end of each tie into the seam, pin it in place, and sew it down by hand or machine. Then fold the seam allowance back up and topstitch it closed, catching the tie in the seam. This anchors the ties securely.

Once the ties are sewn, check all the edges. Trim any loose threads, press the entire bonnet one more time, and try it on. The crown should sit on top of the head, the brim should frame the face, and the ties should reach comfortably under the chin.

Hand-Sewing Versus Machine-Sewing

A bonnet can be sewn entirely by machine, entirely by hand, or with a combination of both. Machine-sewing is faster — the crown and brim seams take 20 to 30 minutes on a machine versus an hour or more by hand. Hand-sewing gives a softer, more flexible seam and is easier to control on curves, especially for beginners who are still learning to manage fabric tension.

Many sewers use a machine for the main seams (crown and brim) and hand-sew the topstitching that finishes the brim edge. This is a good middle ground: it saves time on the structural seams while keeping the visible topstitching neat and even. If you choose to hand-sew, use a backstitch for strength and keep your stitches small and consistent. Press frequently to keep the fabric flat and prevent puckering.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is not pressing seams as you go. Pressing each seam flat before moving to the next step prevents wrinkles from setting in and makes the bonnet sit smoothly. Another mistake is cutting the seam allowance too close to the thread, which causes seams to unravel. Leave at least one-quarter inch of fabric beyond the seam line.

Bunching at the brim is usually caused by not gathering or pleating the brim evenly before sewing it to the crown. Distribute the fullness by hand before you pin, so the brim sits flat against the crown. If the bonnet is too tight or too loose, check your head measurement against your pattern — a bonnet should sit snugly but not pull, and the brim should not gap away from the face.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric works best for a bonnet?

Cotton, linen, and quilting cotton are the easiest to work with because they hold a crease, do not fray excessively, and are forgiving for beginners. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit until you have more experience. For a stiffer bonnet that holds its shape, use cotton with a layer of interfacing sewn into the crown.

Can I add a lining to my bonnet?

Yes. Cut a second set of crown pieces from lining fabric, sew them together the same way as the outer crown, then place the lining inside the outer crown with wrong sides facing. Sew them together around the bottom opening before you attach the brim. This hides all the seams on the inside and makes the bonnet more comfortable to wear.

How do I make the brim stiffer?

Sew a layer of interfacing or buckram into the brim before you attach it to the crown. Cut the interfacing to the same size as your brim piece, place it between the two layers of brim fabric, and sew all three layers together. The bonnet will hold its shape better and the brim will not droop.

What if my bonnet is too big or too small?

Measure your head at the widest point and compare it to your pattern. If the bonnet is too big, sew the seams slightly deeper (move the seam line inward by one-quarter inch). If it is too small, sew the seams shallower. You can also adjust the brim width — a wider brim makes the bonnet sit lower on the head.

How do I wash a bonnet I have sewn?

Hand-wash in cool water with mild soap, rinse gently, and lay flat to dry. Do not wring or twist. Once it is damp, shape it on your head or on a form and let it air-dry. Press lightly with an iron on low heat if needed. Avoid the dryer, which can shrink fabric and damage the seams.