A border is sewn to a quilt in two passes: first you stitch it to the front, then you fold it to the back and hand-stitch it down

A quilt binding (the border that finishes the edge) goes on after you have quilted the three layers together. The binding is a strip of fabric, usually 2.5 inches wide, that you cut on the bias or straight grain, sew into one long piece, press in half lengthwise, and then attach to all four sides of the quilt. The first pass is done on a sewing machine; the second is done by hand. The whole process takes a few hours, depending on the size of your quilt.

The reason for two passes is that machine stitching alone would show on the back of the quilt. Hand-stitching the binding down on the back side hides the machine thread and gives the quilt a finished look. If you are making a quilt for everyday use rather than display, some quilters skip the hand-stitching step, but the binding will be less durable.

Key Takeaways

  • Binding strips are usually cut 2.5 inches wide and sewn together end-to-end to make one long strip that goes around the entire quilt perimeter.
  • Press the binding strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together before you attach it, so the fold runs along the front edge of the quilt.
  • Sew the binding to the front of the quilt using a quarter-inch seam allowance, mitering the corners by stopping and pivoting at a 45-degree angle.
  • Fold the binding to the back of the quilt and hand-stitch it down using a ladder stitch or whip stitch, which hides the thread inside the fold.

Cut and prepare your binding strips

Cut strips 2.5 inches wide from your binding fabric. If you are cutting on the straight grain (parallel to the selvage), cut as many strips as you need to go around the quilt perimeter plus 10 inches for seams and overlap. If you are cutting on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain), bias binding stretches slightly and is easier to miter around corners, but it requires more fabric and more careful cutting.

Sew the strips together end-to-end using a diagonal seam. Place two strips right sides together at a 45-degree angle, overlapping the corners slightly, and sew across the overlap with a quarter-inch seam. Trim the excess fabric and press the seams open. This creates one long continuous strip.

Press the entire binding strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. The fold should run along one long edge. This folded edge will sit on the front of the quilt; the raw edges will face outward and get sewn into the seam.

Attach the binding to the front of the quilt

Lay the quilt flat on your work surface with the front facing up. Align the raw edges of the binding with the raw edges of the quilt, starting on one side (not at a corner). Leave a 6-inch tail of binding unsewn at the start. Sew the binding to the quilt using a quarter-inch seam allowance, keeping the raw edges aligned as you go.

When you reach a corner, stop a quarter-inch away from the edge, backstitch, and remove the quilt from the machine. Fold the binding up at a 45-degree angle, then fold it back down so it runs along the next side of the quilt. This creates a mitered corner. Sew along the next side, and repeat at each corner.

When you have sewn three sides and are approaching the starting point, stop about 12 inches before the tail you left at the beginning. Remove the quilt from the machine. Overlap the two tails, trim them so they overlap by half an inch, sew them together with a diagonal seam (the same way you joined the strips), and then finish sewing the binding to the quilt.

Fold the binding to the back and hand-stitch it down

Fold the binding to the back of the quilt, wrapping it around the edge so the folded edge of the binding sits just past the machine stitching line. The fold should cover the line of machine stitches completely. Pin the binding in place as you go, or use clips to hold it while you work.

Thread a needle with thread that matches the binding. Use a ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch), which hides the thread inside the fold of the binding. Bring the needle up through the fold, then insert it directly across into the quilt fabric, travel inside the quilt for a quarter-inch, and come back out. Go back into the fold directly across from where you came out, travel a quarter-inch inside the fold, and come back out. This creates a ladder pattern that is nearly invisible.

Work your way around all four sides and all four corners. At each corner, fold the binding to create a mitered corner on the back that matches the front, and stitch through all layers to find it. When you reach the starting point, overlap the stitches slightly and knot off the thread inside the binding fold.

Miter corners so they lie flat

A mitered corner is a diagonal fold that allows the binding to turn the corner without bunching. On the front of the quilt, you create the miter by folding the binding up and then back down as you sew. On the back, you fold the binding at a 45-degree angle and stitch through the fold to find it.

If your miters are not lying flat after hand-stitching, the binding may be too thick or the fold may not be at a true 45-degree angle. Adjust the fold slightly and add a few more stitches to hold it in place. Some quilters use a small stitch ripper to undo a corner and re-fold it if it does not look right the first time.

Trim excess batting and backing before binding

Before you attach the binding, trim the batting and backing fabric even with the front of the quilt. If the batting and backing are wider than the quilt top, the binding will be bulky and hard to fold. Use a rotary cutter and ruler to trim all four sides straight, or use scissors if you prefer.

Square up the corners so they are true 90-degree angles. A corner that is slightly off will cause the binding to twist or bunch when you fold it to the back. If you are not confident about squaring up by eye, use a large square ruler to check each corner before you trim.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a serger to attach the binding?

Yes, a serger can attach binding quickly, but it is harder to miter corners and easier to stretch the binding out of shape. Most quilters use a regular sewing machine for binding because it gives more control. If you use a serger, practice on a small test quilt first.

What if I do not want to hand-stitch the binding on the back?

You can machine-stitch the binding on the back using a stitch that catches the fold of the binding. This is faster but visible from the front if your thread does not match perfectly. Some quilters use a decorative stitch on purpose for this reason.

How wide should the binding be when it is finished?

A finished binding is usually a quarter-inch to three-eighths of an inch wide. If you cut 2.5-inch strips and sew them with a quarter-inch seam, the finished binding will be about a quarter-inch wide. Wider binding is easier to hand-stitch but uses more fabric.

What happens if my binding is too short?

If you run out of binding before you reach the end, sew another strip to the end of the existing binding using a diagonal seam, and keep going. It is better to have extra binding than to fall short partway around the quilt.

Do I have to miter the corners?

Mitered corners look professional and lie flat, but they take practice. If you are new to binding, you can fold the corners like wrapping paper instead — fold the binding up, then fold it over at the corner. This creates a small pleat at each corner but is faster and easier to learn.