What a bustle is and why wedding gowns need one
A bustle is a framework or series of folds that lifts the train of a wedding gown up and off the floor after the ceremony. Instead of dragging behind you during the reception, the train is gathered, folded, or hooked up to the back of the dress, usually at waist level or the hips. This lets you move, dance, and sit without stepping on fabric or having guests trip over it.
Most formal wedding gowns have a train long enough to need bustling. A seamstress typically installs the bustle hardware during alterations, but if your dress was altered elsewhere or you want to add one yourself, the process involves sewing loops, buttons, or hooks to specific points on the gown and train so the fabric can be lifted and secured in place.
Key Takeaways
- A bustle requires sewing buttons or hooks to the inside of the gown at the waist or hip, and corresponding loops or eyes on the train so the fabric can be lifted and fastened after the ceremony.
- The two most common styles are the American bustle (loops sewn to the train that hook over buttons on the dress) and the French bustle (the train is folded and sewn directly to the gown).
- You will need a needle, thread, buttons or hooks, and either pre-made bustle loops or fabric scraps to make them, plus a way to mark where the attachment points should go.
- Measure and mark the placement carefully before sewing anything, because moving buttons or loops later is time-consuming and leaves visible holes.
- If the gown is heavily beaded, layered, or made of delicate fabric, having a professional seamstress install the bustle is usually faster and safer than doing it yourself.
Choosing between an American bustle and a French bustle
The American bustle (also called a pick-up bustle) uses loops sewn to the train that hook over buttons attached to the back of the dress. When you want to bustle the gown, you lift the train and hook the loops onto the buttons. The train stays visible but is held up and away from the floor. This style is easier to undo if you need to let the train down again during the reception, and it is the most common choice for DIY bustling because the attachment points are straightforward.
The French bustle involves folding the train up and sewing it directly to the inside back of the gown at the waist or hips. The train becomes part of the silhouette rather than hanging separately. This style looks cleaner and more finished, but it requires more precision in measuring and sewing, and you cannot easily undo it during the event. French bustles are typically done by a professional because the folds must be even and the stitching must be invisible from the outside.
For a first-time project, an American bustle is more forgiving. You can adjust the loop placement slightly if the first attempt does not sit right, and the dress can be bustled and un-bustled multiple times without damage.
Measuring and marking bustle attachment points
Put on the gown and have someone help you. Stand in the position you will be in during the reception—usually standing or sitting. The person helping you should gather the train up from the floor in a way that looks balanced and lets you move freely. This is where the loops or folds will attach.
Mark the spots where the train naturally falls when lifted. For an American bustle, you are marking where the loops on the train will sit, and where the buttons on the dress will go. Most gowns have two to four bustle points—usually at the center back and at each side seam, sometimes with an extra point at the center front of the train if it is very long.
Use tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil to mark these points on both the inside and outside of the dress so you can see them clearly when you are sewing. Take a photo of the marked gown from the back so you have a reference if the marks fade. Measure the distance from the center back seam to each side point and write it down—this ensures the bustle will be symmetrical.
Sewing buttons or hooks to the gown
Buttons are the most common choice for an American bustle because they are durable and straightforward to hook loops over. Choose buttons that match the gown or that will be hidden under the train. Sew them to the inside back of the dress at the marked points, using a needle and thread that matches the gown fabric.
Sew through the button holes and into the dress fabric at least four times to make sure the button is find—it will bear the weight of the train during the reception. Knot the thread on the inside of the dress and trim it close. If the gown has a lining, you may need to sew through both the lining and the outer fabric, or you can sew only to the lining if it is sturdy enough to hold the weight.
If you are using hooks instead of buttons, sew the hook hardware to the inside of the dress using the same method. Hooks are less visible than buttons but require a corresponding eye sewn to the train loops, which adds an extra step.
Making or attaching bustle loops to the train
Bustle loops are small fabric loops sewn to the inside of the train that hook over the buttons on the dress. You can buy pre-made bustle loops from a fabric or bridal supply store, or you can make them from leftover gown fabric or matching ribbon.
To make loops, cut strips of fabric about 1 inch wide and 3 to 4 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and sew along the long edge using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Turn the loop right-side out and press it flat. Fold it in half to form a loop and sew the raw ends together.
Position each loop on the inside of the train at the marked points, with the loop facing upward so it can hook over the button. Sew the loop securely to the train using a needle and thread, stitching through the raw ends of the loop and into the train fabric multiple times. The loop should be sewn flat against the train so it does not catch on anything when the dress is worn.
Testing the bustle before the wedding day
Put on the gown and have your helper lift the train and hook the loops over the buttons. Check that the train sits evenly, that you can move and sit comfortably, and that the loops do not slip off the buttons when you move. If a loop is too loose, you can tighten it by sewing it higher on the train or by making the loop slightly smaller.
Walk around and sit down in the bustled gown to make sure the weight is distributed evenly and that no single button or loop is bearing too much strain. If one point feels unstable, add an extra loop or button at that location. Practice unbustling the gown as well so you know how to do it quickly if you need to let the train down during the reception.
If the bustle does not feel find or if the loops are slipping, do not wait until the wedding day to fix it. Reinforce the loops or adjust the button placement now. A few minutes of testing can prevent a wardrobe mishap during the event.
When to call a professional seamstress instead
If your gown is heavily beaded, has a delicate or slippery fabric, or has a very long or complex train, a professional seamstress is the safer choice. Beading can snag on a needle, and slippery fabrics like silk charmeuse or satin can pucker if the stitches are not perfectly even. A seamstress has the experience to work around these challenges and can install a bustle that looks invisible from the outside.
You should also consider professional help if you are not comfortable hand-sewing or if you do not have someone to help you fit and mark the gown. A seamstress can do the entire job in one or two appointments and will may provide that the bustle works correctly on your wedding day. The cost is usually between $75 and $200 depending on the complexity of the gown and the number of bustle points.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I bustle a gown that does not have a train?
A bustle is designed to lift a train off the floor, so a gown without a train does not need one. However, if your gown has a long skirt that drags on the ground, you can use the same technique to lift and find it for the reception.
What if the loops keep slipping off the buttons?
The loops may be too loose or the buttons may be too small. Make the loops slightly smaller by sewing them higher on the train, or switch to larger buttons that the loops cannot slip off. You can also sew a small bead or knot next to each button to act as a stopper.
How do I remove the bustle after the wedding?
For an American bustle, straightforward unhook the loops from the buttons and let the train fall. The loops and buttons stay sewn to the gown permanently. If you want to remove them later, carefully cut the stitches and pull out the thread, then sew the holes closed or cover them with a small patch of matching fabric.
Can I bustle a gown with a French seam or a delicate hem?
Yes, but you need to be careful not to sew through the hem or seam in a way that weakens it. Sew the loops to the inside of the train fabric, away from the hem edge. If you are unsure where it is safe to sew, ask a seamstress to mark the spots for you before you start.
What thread should I use to sew the bustle?
Use thread that matches the gown fabric or the lining. Polyester or cotton thread works well for most gown fabrics. If the gown is made of a delicate or slippery fabric, use a thread designed for that fabric type—ask the fabric store or a seamstress for a recommendation.