What a cargo pocket is and why you sew it the way you do
A cargo pocket is a patch pocket with a pleat or fold on each side, usually sewn onto the outside of pants or shorts. The pleats let the pocket expand when you fill it, and the patch construction means you sew it flat to the fabric rather than building it into a seam. You'll see them on work pants, military-style clothing, and casual wear.
The pocket itself is straightforward to construct—two rectangles of fabric sewn together, turned right-side out, and pressed flat. The real work is sewing it to your garment with even stitching and making sure those side pleats stay crisp and symmetrical. Most home sewers can complete one pocket in 30 to 45 minutes once they understand the sequence.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two identical rectangles of fabric, add a quarter-inch seam allowance on all sides, and sew three sides together before turning the pocket right-side out.
- Press the pocket flat and fold each side edge inward by half an inch to create the characteristic side pleats.
- Pin the pocket to your garment with the top edge aligned to your marked line, then stitch around all four sides using a straight stitch and matching thread.
- Sew a second row of stitching one-quarter inch inside the first row to reinforce the pocket and prevent it from tearing under weight.
- Test the pocket by pulling on it gently before wearing the finished garment to make sure all seams hold.
Cutting and preparing your pocket pieces
Start by deciding how large you want the finished pocket to be. A typical cargo pocket is 5 to 6 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches tall, but you can adjust this to fit your garment. Write down your finished dimensions—let's say 5 inches by 6 inches for this example.
Add a half-inch seam allowance on all four sides, which means you'll cut two rectangles that are 6 inches wide by 7 inches tall. Use a ruler and fabric marker or tailor's chalk to draw these rectangles on your fabric. If you're using a patterned fabric, make sure both pieces are cut in the same direction so the pattern runs the same way on both sides of the pocket.
Cut both rectangles with sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. Stack them together and check that they match exactly—if one is slightly larger, trim it to match the other. Uneven pieces will create a lumpy pocket.
Sewing the pocket pouch and turning it right-side out
Place the two rectangles with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin around all four edges, leaving a 2-inch opening on one of the long sides—this is where you'll turn the pocket inside out later. Use pins spaced about 2 inches apart.
Thread your needle or sewing machine with thread that matches your pocket fabric. Using a straight stitch, sew along all four sides with a half-inch seam allowance, starting and stopping at your pins to leave that 2-inch opening unpinned. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread. If you're hand-sewing, use a running stitch and aim for stitches about one-eighth inch long.
Trim the seam allowance at the four corners diagonally, cutting close to the stitching without cutting through it. This reduces bulk when you turn the pocket right-side out. Reach through the 2-inch opening and gently pull the pocket inside out, working the corners out fully with your fingers or a blunt tool like a chopstick. Press the pocket flat with an iron on medium heat, making sure the edges are sharp and the opening is folded inward neatly.
Creating the side pleats
Lay the pocket flat on your pressing surface with the right side facing up. Measure half an inch in from the left edge and fold that edge toward the center of the pocket, creating a vertical pleat. Press this fold with your iron to set it. Repeat on the right side, folding half an inch inward and pressing.
These pleats should be symmetrical and mirror each other. If one looks deeper or shallower than the other, unfold and adjust. The pleats are what give a cargo pocket its distinctive look and also allow it to expand when full.
Once both pleats are pressed, topstitch along each pleat to hold it in place. Sew a straight line about one-quarter inch from the folded edge, running from the top of the pocket to the bottom. This keeps the pleats from unfolding during wear and washing.
Marking and pinning the pocket to your garment
Decide where on your pants or shorts you want the pocket. Cargo pockets are typically placed on the outer thigh, about 3 to 4 inches below the hip seam. Use a ruler and tailor's chalk or fabric marker to draw a light horizontal line on your garment marking the top edge of the pocket. This line should be at least 1 inch from any existing seams.
Center the pocket horizontally on the leg. Pin the top edge of the pocket along your marked line, then pin down the left side, across the bottom, and up the right side. Make sure the pocket is lying flat against the garment with no wrinkles or bunching. Step back and look at it—if it looks crooked, unpin and reposition.
Sewing the pocket to the garment
Thread your machine or needle with thread that matches your garment. Starting at the top left corner of the pocket, sew a straight stitch around all four sides, removing pins as you reach them. Use a quarter-inch seam allowance from the edge of the pocket. Backstitch at the start and end.
Once you've sewn around the entire pocket once, sew a second row of stitching one-quarter inch inside the first row. This double stitching is what keeps cargo pockets from tearing when you put weight in them. The inner row should run parallel to the outer row on all four sides.
At the top corners where the pocket meets the garment, you can sew a small triangle or box shape for extra reinforcement. Sew a small square about half an inch on each side, then sew an X through the middle. This is optional but common on work wear.
Finishing and testing your pocket
Trim any loose threads with scissors. Press the entire pocket area with an iron to flatten any puckering and set the stitches. If you used tailor's chalk to mark the pocket placement, brush it away gently.
Before you wear the garment, test the pocket by pulling on it firmly from different angles. Tug on the top edge, the sides, and the bottom. The pocket should not shift or pucker. If you see any loose stitches or gaps, reinforce that area with a few extra stitches by hand or machine.
Wash the garment once before heavy use if possible. This will show you whether any seams are weak before you rely on the pocket for carrying things. If everything holds after washing and drying, your cargo pocket is ready to use.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a cargo pocket by hand instead of with a machine?
Yes. Use a running stitch with thread that matches your fabric, keeping stitches about one-eighth inch long and as even as possible. Hand-sewing takes longer—usually 60 to 90 minutes per pocket—but the result is just as strong if your stitches are consistent. A backstitch is stronger than a running stitch if you have the patience for it.
What if my pocket fabric is thicker than my garment fabric?
Thicker fabric like canvas or denim works fine for cargo pockets, but trim the seam allowances more aggressively at the corners to reduce bulk. You may also need to use a heavier needle and thread. If your machine struggles, hand-sew instead or take the garment to a tailor.
How do I keep the side pleats from unfolding in the wash?
The topstitching you sew along each pleat holds it in place through washing. If a pleat does unfold, press it flat again with an iron and sew a fresh line of topstitching. Washing in cold water and air-drying is gentler on pleats than hot water and a dryer.
Can I add a pocket flap on top of a cargo pocket?
Yes. Sew the cargo pocket first, then construct a separate flap from two rectangles of fabric, turn it right-side out, and sew it to the top edge of the pocket before sewing the pocket to the garment. The flap will cover the top seam of the pocket and add a finished look.
What thread color should I use?
Match the thread to your garment fabric, not your pocket fabric, since the garment thread will be more visible. If your garment is a solid color, use that color. If it's patterned, choose the dominant color or a neutral like tan or gray that blends in.