A chef hat is a tall, pleated cylinder that you can make at home with basic sewing skills
A chef hat (also called a toque or toque blanche) is a tall white hat with a gathered crown and a stiff brim. You can sew one in an afternoon using cotton fabric, elastic, and a needle—no special equipment needed. The hat sits on your head with the crown puffing upward, and the brim stays flat and stiff around the base. This guide walks you through measuring, cutting, and stitching each piece in order.
The finished hat will be about 8 to 10 inches tall and fit most adult head sizes. If you are making one for a child, you will scale down the measurements. The whole project takes 2 to 3 hours, including pressing seams and letting glue dry if you use interfacing.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your head circumference and add 1 inch for seam allowance to determine how wide to cut the brim strip.
- Cut two rectangles from cotton fabric—one for the crown (about 18 inches wide by 10 inches tall) and one for the brim (your head measurement plus 1 inch, by 3 inches tall).
- Sew the crown into a tube, gather the top edge with running stitches, and attach it to the brim with a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
- Insert elastic into a casing at the brim edge so the hat stays on your head without slipping.
- Press all seams flat and topstitch the brim edge for a professional finish.
Measure your head and gather your materials
Start by measuring the circumference of your head where the hat will sit—usually about 1 inch above your ears. Use a soft measuring tape and write down the number in inches. This measurement becomes the length of your brim strip. Add 1 inch to account for seam allowance when you cut.
Gather these materials before you begin: 1 to 1.5 yards of white cotton fabric (broadcloth or poplin works well), 1/2 inch wide elastic (about 24 inches long), thread that matches your fabric, a needle, scissors, pins, a ruler, and an iron. If you want the brim to stand stiff, pick up lightweight interfacing as well—this is optional but gives a more professional look. You will also need a sewing machine, though you can hand-sew this hat if you prefer (it will take longer).
Cut the crown and brim pieces
Lay your fabric flat on a clean table and cut two rectangles. The crown piece should be about 18 inches wide by 10 inches tall—this will become the tall part of the hat. The brim piece should be your head measurement plus 1 inch for seam allowance, by 3 inches tall. For example, if your head measures 22 inches around, cut the brim 23 inches by 3 inches.
Cut these pieces straight and square using a ruler and sharp scissors. If you are using interfacing, cut one piece the same size as your brim and fuse it to the wrong side of the brim fabric now, following the package directions. Let it cool completely before moving forward.
Sew the crown into a tube and gather the top
Fold the crown rectangle in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing each other. Pin the short ends together and sew them with a 1/2-inch seam allowance using a straight stitch on your machine (or a running stitch by hand). Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread. Press this seam open with your iron.
Now you have a tube. Turn it right-side out and press it flat. Thread a needle with a long piece of thread and tie a knot at one end. Starting at one edge of the top opening, make small running stitches (about 1/8 inch apart) all the way around the top edge of the crown. Do not cut the thread when you reach the end—instead, gently pull both ends of the thread to gather the fabric into tight pleats. The opening should shrink to about 2 to 3 inches across. Wrap the thread around the gathered fabric a few times and tie it off securely. This gathered top is what gives the hat its signature puffy shape.
Attach the crown to the brim
Place the brim piece flat on your table, right-side up. Position the crown tube on top of it so the bottom edge of the crown aligns with one long edge of the brim. The gathered top of the crown should point upward. Pin them together all the way around, making sure the crown sits evenly.
Sew the crown to the brim using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the start and end. Press this seam toward the brim (away from the crown) with your iron. If the seam is bulky, you can trim it down to 1/4 inch to reduce bulk.
Create an elastic casing and finish the brim edge
Fold the free long edge of the brim up 1/2 inch toward the wrong side and press it with your iron. Fold it up another 1/2 inch and press again—this creates a casing (a tunnel) that will hold the elastic. Pin this fold in place.
Sew along the inner fold line using a straight stitch, leaving a 2-inch opening so you can thread the elastic through later. Backstitch at the start and end. Thread your elastic through the opening using a safety pin or bodkin (a blunt needle tool). Once the elastic is threaded all the way through, overlap the ends by 1/2 inch and sew them together by hand or machine. Stitch the 2-inch opening closed. Press the entire brim edge flat with your iron.
Add a topstitch and final pressing
For a polished look, topstitch 1/8 inch away from the seam where the crown meets the brim. This is a line of stitching on the right side of the fabric that holds everything in place and looks professional. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the start and end.
Press the entire hat with your iron on a medium setting. Press the crown gently to avoid flattening the gathered top. Press the brim flat and smooth. Let the hat cool completely before trying it on. The elastic should hold it snugly without pinching.
Common mistakes to avoid
Do not make the crown too narrow or too short—if it is less than 8 inches tall, the hat will look flat and won't have the traditional chef hat shape. Do not skip gathering the top of the crown; this is what creates the distinctive puffy silhouette. If your gathering thread breaks while you are pulling, tie it off, thread a new needle, and continue gathering from where you left off.
Avoid sewing the elastic casing too close to the edge of the brim, or the elastic will show when you wear the hat. A 1/2-inch fold is the standard. If your seams are wavy or puckered, you may have pulled the fabric too tight while sewing—relax your grip on the fabric and let the machine feed it through at its own pace. If the hat is too loose or too tight after you finish, you can adjust the elastic by removing a few stitches, pulling the elastic tighter or looser, and re-sewing the ends.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a different fabric besides cotton?
Yes. Linen, a cotton-linen blend, or even a lightweight twill will work. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knit, because they will not hold the shape. White is traditional, but you can use any color. Avoid dark fabrics if you plan to wear the hat in a kitchen, because they show stains more easily.
What if I do not have a sewing machine?
You can hand-sew the entire hat using a running stitch or backstitch. It will take 4 to 5 hours instead of 2 to 3, but the result is the same. Use a needle that fits comfortably in your hand and thread that matches your fabric. Backstitch is stronger than running stitch for seams that will get stress, like where the crown meets the brim.
How do I make the hat taller or shorter?
Adjust the height of the crown rectangle. The standard is 10 inches, but you can cut it 8 inches for a shorter hat or 12 inches for a taller one. Keep the width at about 18 inches so the hat has enough fabric to gather at the top. If you make it much taller, you may need to gather more aggressively to keep the top closed.
Should I wash the hat before wearing it?
It is a good idea to wash and dry it once before wearing it in a kitchen, especially if you used new fabric. This will shrink it slightly and soften the fabric. Wash it in cool water on a gentle cycle and lay it flat to dry. Do not put it in the dryer, because heat can warp the interfacing and elastic.
Can I add a decorative band or trim to the brim?
Yes. After you finish the hat, you can sew a ribbon, bias tape, or trim around the base of the crown where it meets the brim. This is purely decorative and does not affect how the hat works. Sew it by hand or machine after all other seams are complete and pressed.