Start with a straightforward rectangle and add the hood after

A basic cloak is a rectangle of fabric with a hood sewn to the neckline and a closure at the front. You do not need a pattern — you can draft one from your own measurements in about ten minutes. The hood is a separate piece that you sew on last, which makes the whole project easier to manage than trying to attach it as you go.

The simplest approach is to cut a rectangle for the body, sew the side seams, add a neckline binding, then sew the hood to that binding. This order keeps each step straightforward and lets you fit the hood to the finished neckline rather than guessing at the size beforehand.

Key Takeaways

  • A basic cloak body is a rectangle cut to your shoulder width and desired length, with the two short ends sewn together at the sides.
  • The hood is two identical pieces sewn together, then attached to a bias binding around the neckline opening.
  • You need a measuring tape, scissors, thread, a sewing machine, and fabric — linen, cotton, or fleece all work well for a first cloak.
  • Sewing the hood on last lets you check the fit before committing, and you can adjust the neckline opening if needed.

Measure yourself and draft the cloak body

Measure from your shoulder point (the bone at the top of your arm) down to where you want the cloak to end — ankle, knee, or mid-calf are common. Write this down as your length. Then measure straight across your back from shoulder bone to shoulder bone, and add 4 to 6 inches for ease and seam allowance. This is your width.

Cut a rectangle of fabric to these dimensions. If your fabric is not wide enough, you can sew two pieces together along the length to make it wider — just add a half-inch seam allowance on each side of the join. Fold the rectangle in half lengthwise (so the short ends meet), and sew a half-inch seam down each side. This creates the side seams of the cloak. Press the seams flat with an iron.

At the top of the cloak, you now have a neckline opening. Measure around this opening with a soft measuring tape — this number is important for sizing the hood. The opening is usually 12 to 16 inches around, depending on your shoulder width.

Cut and sew the hood pieces

The hood is made from two identical pieces. To draft one piece, measure from the nape of your neck (where your neck meets your shoulders) to your forehead, then add an inch. This is the hood length. The hood width is half your head circumference plus an inch for seam allowance — so if your head is 22 inches around, the width is 12 inches.

Draw a rectangle on paper using these measurements, then round off the top corners slightly so the hood has a gentle curve instead of sharp points. Cut this shape from your fabric twice — once for the outer hood and once for the lining, if you want a lined hood. If you are making an unlined hood, cut two pieces from the same fabric.

Place the two hood pieces with right sides together (the sides you want to show facing each other). Sew around three sides — the two long sides and the curved top — using a half-inch seam allowance. Leave the bottom (the straight edge that will attach to the cloak) unsewn. Turn the hood right side out through the bottom opening and press it flat. If you are using a lining, the lining stays inside and you do not turn it.

Bind the neckline and attach the hood

Cut a strip of bias tape or bias binding long enough to go around your neckline opening plus 2 inches. Bias tape is fabric cut at a 45-degree angle to the grain, which lets it curve smoothly around the neckline. You can buy pre-made bias tape at a fabric store, or cut your own from a contrasting fabric if you want the binding to show.

Open out the bias tape so it lies flat. Pin one long edge of the tape to the right side of the neckline opening, starting at one side seam. The tape should overlap the fabric by half an inch. Sew along the fold line of the tape using a half-inch seam allowance. When you reach the other side seam, overlap the ends of the tape by half an inch and trim the excess.

Fold the bias tape to the inside of the cloak and press it. Sew it down from the inside using a ladder stitch (a nearly invisible stitch that runs along the fold) or a straightforward running stitch close to the fold. This creates a finished neckline edge.

Now pin the bottom edge of the hood to the neckline binding, with the hood's right side facing the cloak's right side. The hood should sit centered at the back of the cloak. Sew the hood to the binding using a half-inch seam allowance, then fold the binding up and over the hood seam and sew it down from the inside to encase the raw edges. This is called binding a seam.

Add a front closure

A cloak needs something to hold it closed at the front. The simplest option is two ties sewn to the inside of the neckline, one on each side. Cut two strips of fabric about 2 inches wide and 12 to 18 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew along the long edge, turn it right side out, and press. Sew one tie to each side of the neckline, on the inside, so they hang down the front of the cloak.

Alternatively, you can sew on buttons and make buttonholes, or use hook-and-loop tape (Velcro) for a faster closure. Sew the hook side to one front edge and the loop side to the other, overlapping them so the cloak closes smoothly.

Finish the hem and edges

Try on the cloak and have someone mark where the hem should fall. Take it off and try on the hood — it should sit comfortably on your head without pulling at the neckline. If the hood feels too tight, you can let out the side seams slightly. If it is too loose, take in the seams a little.

Fold the bottom edge of the cloak up by half an inch, press it, and sew it down with a running stitch or machine stitch. This is a straightforward hem. If you want a more finished look, fold it up twice (half an inch each time) so the raw edge is hidden inside the fold, then sew it down.

Check all seams for loose threads and trim them. If you used bias tape that does not match your fabric, you can leave it as a design detail or cover it with a contrasting ribbon sewn along the neckline.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a cloak without a sewing machine?

Yes. You can hand-sew every seam using a running stitch or backstitch, though it will take longer — expect 8 to 12 hours instead of 2 to 3. Use thread that matches your fabric and make your stitches as even as possible. A backstitch is stronger than a running stitch for seams that will bear weight.

What fabric works best for a cloak?

Cotton, linen, and fleece are all good choices for a first cloak. Cotton and linen are breathable and drape well; fleece is warm and forgiving if your seams are not perfect. Avoid very stretchy fabrics like jersey knit, which can distort the shape. Heavier fabrics like wool or canvas make a more dramatic cloak but are harder to sew.

What if my neckline opening is too big or too small?

If it is too big, you can sew a new seam closer to the edge before you attach the hood. If it is too small, you can carefully cut it a little larger. Either way, measure the new opening before you attach the hood so the hood fits properly.

Do I need to line the hood?

No. A lined hood looks more polished and hides seams, but an unlined hood is simpler and works fine. If you line it, use a lighter fabric for the lining so it does not add bulk.

How do I make the cloak longer or shorter?

Cut your rectangle longer or shorter before you sew the side seams. If you have already sewn it and want to change the length, you can unpick the hem, cut off the excess or add a strip of fabric to the bottom, and sew a new hem.