Sew the lining to the coat body using a ladder stitch or slip stitch
A coat lining is sewn in place after the coat shell is complete. The most common method is the ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch), which closes the opening invisibly by stitching through the fold of the fabric on each side. You thread a needle, knot the end, and run it through the fold of the lining edge for about half an inch, then cross over and do the same on the coat edge. The thread stays hidden inside the fold, so the seam does not show on either the outside or inside of the coat.
Before you start stitching, the lining should already be sewn to the coat at the armholes, neckline, and front edges. The opening you are closing is usually at the hem — either a gap left intentionally or the space where the lining hem meets the coat hem. Pin the folded edges together first so they stay aligned while you work. Use a thread color that matches the lining, not the coat shell.
Work in short sections, pulling the thread snug every few stitches so the seam draws closed evenly. The ladder stitch is slower than a machine seam but worth the time because it leaves no visible stitching line. If you prefer speed over invisibility, you can use a machine straight stitch instead, but you will see the line on the inside of the coat.
Key Takeaways
- The lining is attached to the coat shell at the armholes, neckline, and front facings before the hem is closed.
- A ladder stitch (slip stitch) closes the lining hem invisibly by running thread through the fold of fabric on alternating sides.
- Pin the folded edges together before stitching to keep them aligned and prevent puckering.
- Use thread that matches the lining color, and pull the thread snug every few stitches to keep the seam even.
- The entire lining hem can be hand-stitched or machine-stitched depending on whether you want the seam to be invisible.
Prepare the lining pieces and attach them to the coat shell
Cut your lining pieces using the same pattern pieces as the coat shell, but trim them about half an inch smaller at the seams so the lining sits inside without pulling. Sew the lining pieces together at the side seams and shoulder seams using a sewing machine and a straight stitch. Press the seams open with an iron.
With the coat shell inside-out and the lining right-side-out, slip the lining over the coat so the wrong sides of both fabrics face each other. Pin the lining to the coat at the armholes, matching the seams. Stitch the lining to the coat around each armhole using a quarter-inch seam allowance. Repeat this process at the neckline and along the front facings if your coat has them. Trim the seam allowance to an eighth of an inch and finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to prevent fraying.
Hem the lining and coat separately, then close the opening
Turn the coat right-side-out. Fold the coat hem up to your desired length and press it with an iron. Hand-stitch the coat hem using a blind stitch or whip stitch, or machine-stitch it if you prefer. The blind stitch catches only a few threads of the coat fabric so the stitching does not show on the outside.
Fold the lining hem up so it sits about half an inch above the coat hem. This small gap prevents the lining from showing below the coat edge when you wear it. Press the lining hem and hand-stitch it in place using a blind stitch. Now you have a small opening where the lining hem ends and the coat hem begins — this is where you will use the ladder stitch to close the gap invisibly.
Use the ladder stitch to close the lining opening
Thread a needle with thread that matches the lining. Knot the end and bring the needle up through the fold of the lining fabric, so the knot stays hidden inside the fold. Bring the needle out about half an inch along the fold. Cross over to the coat side and insert the needle into the fold of the coat fabric at the same point where you exited the lining. Run the needle through the fold for half an inch and bring it back out.
Cross back to the lining side and repeat. The thread runs back and forth between the two folded edges, staying hidden inside the folds. Every few stitches, pull the thread snug so the opening closes. The seam will draw together and disappear as you work. When you reach the end of the opening, knot the thread inside the fold and trim it short.
If the opening is long, you may want to use a ladder stitch for the visible parts and switch to a machine stitch for any section that will be hidden by a pocket or seam. This saves time without affecting the appearance of the finished coat.
Finish the neckline and front openings
If your coat has a collar, the lining at the neckline is usually caught in the collar seam, so there is nothing to close by hand. If your coat has front facings (the reinforcement strips along the front edges), the lining is sewn to the facing seam and does not need additional hand-stitching.
For coats without facings, fold the lining seam allowance under and hand-stitch it to the coat using a blind stitch. This creates a finished edge that does not show from the outside. Press the neckline and front edges with an iron after stitching to set the seams and remove any puckers.
Press and inspect the finished lining
Once all seams are stitched, press the entire coat lining with an iron on a low to medium heat setting. Pay special attention to the seams at the armholes, neckline, and front edges, where the lining meets the coat shell. A light pressing helps the lining sit smoothly against the coat and makes any hand-stitching less visible.
Check that the lining hangs evenly and does not bunch or twist inside the coat. If you see puckers or wrinkles, you may need to adjust the pins and re-press. The lining should feel smooth to the touch and move freely when you put the coat on and take it off.
Common mistakes to avoid when sewing a coat lining
Do not cut the lining the same size as the coat shell. Lining fabric needs to be slightly smaller so it does not pull the coat out of shape. A half-inch reduction at each seam is standard. If your lining is too large, it will create wrinkles and stress the seams of the coat.
Do not skip pressing the lining seams. Pressing sets the stitches and makes the lining lie flat, which makes hand-stitching easier and the finished coat look more professional. A wrinkled lining shows through thin coat fabrics and looks unfinished.
Do not use thread that contrasts with the lining color for the ladder stitch. Even though the stitch is hidden inside the fold, any thread that shows will be visible if the fold shifts or if light hits it at an angle. Match the thread color exactly to the lining.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I machine-stitch the entire lining instead of using a ladder stitch?
Yes. A machine straight stitch is faster and holds up to wear better than hand-stitching. The trade-off is that the seam line will be visible on the inside of the coat. If you do not mind seeing stitching on the interior, machine-stitching the lining hem is a practical choice.
What if my lining fabric is slippery and keeps sliding out of place?
Use more pins and space them closer together — every two inches instead of every four. Slippery fabrics like silk or polyester satin benefit from a walking foot on your sewing machine, which feeds the layers evenly. For hand-stitching, take smaller stitches so the fabric has less room to shift.
Should the lining be the same weight as the coat shell?
No. Lining fabric is usually lighter and more slippery than the coat shell so it slides easily over clothing. A heavy lining adds bulk and weight to the coat. Typical lining fabrics are cotton sateen, silk, or lightweight polyester.
What do I do if the lining tears after the coat is finished?
Small tears can be patched from the inside using a patch of matching lining fabric and a ladder stitch. Larger tears may require removing the lining from one section of the coat, replacing that section, and re-stitching it in place. This is time-consuming but possible if the tear is in a visible area.
How much lining fabric do I need?
Use the same yardage as your coat pattern calls for. Most patterns specify lining yardage separately. If you are adapting a coat pattern that does not include lining, add about 10 to 15 percent extra yardage to account for the smaller seam allowances and any mistakes.