What a crinoline is and why you might sew one

A crinoline is a stiff petticoat that holds out the skirt of a dress, creating volume and shape. It sits under your outer skirt and uses layers of fabric stiffened with horsehair, netting, or synthetic materials to create that bell-shaped silhouette. You sew one when you want a specific look—a 1950s prom dress, a historical costume, or a formal gown—and ready-made versions either don't exist in your size or cost more than making one yourself.

The basic crinoline has three parts: a waistband you tie or hook around your waist, a lining layer (usually cotton or muslin), and a stiffening layer (horsehair braid, crinoline fabric, or tulle). The stiffening is what does the work; the lining protects your skin. You can make a straightforward version in an afternoon or a more structured one over a few hours, depending on how full you want the skirt and how many layers you add.

Key Takeaways

  • A basic crinoline needs three layers: a waistband, a cotton or muslin lining, and a stiffening material like horsehair braid or crinoline fabric.
  • Measure your waist and the length you want the crinoline to reach (usually knee-length or longer), then cut your lining and stiffening to size.
  • Sew the stiffening to the lining in horizontal rows or tiers, spacing them evenly so the skirt holds its shape all the way around.
  • Attach the waistband last, either by hand or machine, and add a closure like a hook-and-eye or elastic depending on how you want to wear it.
  • Try it on under your dress before finishing seams to make sure the length and fullness match what you need.

Measuring and choosing your materials

Start by measuring your waist with a soft tape measure, keeping it snug but not tight—you should be able to fit one finger under it. Write down that number. Next, decide how long you want the crinoline: knee-length, mid-calf, or floor-length. Measure from your waist down to that point on your body and add 1 inch for seam allowance at the waist and hem.

For the lining, buy lightweight cotton, muslin, or cotton lawn in white or a neutral color that matches your skin tone. You will need enough yardage to cut a rectangle that is at least 1.5 times your waist measurement wide and your desired length long. For a 28-inch waist, that means buying fabric at least 42 inches wide. For the stiffening, you have three main choices: horsehair braid (the traditional choice, available in widths from 1 to 6 inches), crinoline fabric (a synthetic stiffened netting sold by the yard), or tulle layered and sewn together. Horsehair gives the most structure; tulle is lighter and more comfortable for everyday wear.

Cutting and preparing your pieces

Lay out your lining fabric on a clean, flat surface. Measure and cut a rectangle that is 1.5 times your waist measurement wide and your desired length long. For example, if your waist is 28 inches, cut a rectangle 42 inches wide by 24 inches long (if you want a knee-length crinoline). Do not cut it into a circle yet—you will sew it into a tube first, then trim the hem.

If you are using horsehair braid, lay it out in horizontal strips across your lining, spacing them 1 to 2 inches apart. The spacing depends on how stiff you want the crinoline: closer spacing means more structure. If you are using crinoline fabric, cut it into strips the same width as your lining rectangle and the same length. If you are using tulle, cut multiple layers (usually three to five) to the same dimensions as your lining.

Before you sew anything, lay the pieces on top of each other in the order you want them: lining on the bottom, stiffening on top. Pin them together at several points so they do not shift while you work.

Sewing the stiffening to the lining

Using a sewing machine set to a straight stitch, sew the stiffening to the lining in horizontal rows. If you are using horsehair braid, sew along both long edges of each strip, keeping your stitches straight and parallel. Start at one side seam and work your way across, then move to the next row. Use a thread color that matches your lining so the stitches are less visible.

If you are using crinoline fabric or tulle strips, sew them to the lining in the same way—horizontal rows, both edges of each strip. You can also sew a vertical line down the center of each strip for extra stability, especially if your crinoline will be very full. Take your time and keep your seams even; uneven stitching will make the crinoline sit crooked under your dress.

Once all the stiffening is sewn down, sew the short ends of your rectangle together with a 1/2-inch seam allowance, right sides facing. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the seam. Press the seam open with an iron on low heat (check your stiffening material's care label first—some synthetics melt). You now have a tube.

Finishing the waistband and hem

Try the tube on over your regular clothes to check the length and fit. The waist should sit at your natural waist without twisting, and the hem should hit where you measured. If the length is wrong, trim the hem now before you attach the waistband. Cut a straight line all the way around, or trim it into a gentle curve if you prefer a more finished look.

For the waistband, cut a strip of your lining fabric 2 inches wide and 1 inch longer than your waist measurement. Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press with an iron. Pin it to the top of your crinoline, right sides together, and sew with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Fold the waistband to the inside and hand-sew it down with a ladder stitch, or machine-sew it from the inside if you prefer speed over invisibility.

Add a closure to the waistband: a hook-and-eye for a fitted crinoline, or a length of elastic (1 to 2 inches wide) sewn into the waistband seam if you want it to stretch. Elastic is easier to put on and take off; a hook-and-eye is more find if you are wearing the crinoline under a fitted dress.

Hemming and final details

Turn the crinoline inside out and fold the raw hem edge up 1/2 inch, then fold it up again another 1/2 inch to hide the raw edge. Press with an iron and pin in place. Hand-sew the hem with a ladder stitch (nearly invisible) or a running stitch, or machine-sew it with a straight stitch if you do not mind visible stitching on the inside. Remove all pins as you go.

Try the finished crinoline on under your dress one more time before you call it done. Walk around, sit down, and move your arms to make sure it does not shift, poke out where you do not want it to, or restrict your movement. If the fullness is not quite right, you can add another row of stiffening or remove a row and re-sew—the beauty of hand-sewn garments is that you can adjust them.

Caring for your crinoline

Store your crinoline hanging on a padded hanger or rolled loosely in a garment bag to keep it clean and preserve its shape. If it gets dusty, brush it gently with a soft-bristled brush or use a lint roller. Most crinolines can be hand-washed in cool water with mild soap, but check the care label on your stiffening material first—some synthetic materials should be dry-cleaned instead.

If the stiffening starts to soften or lose its shape after many wearings, you can re-stiffen it by spraying it lightly with fabric stiffener (available at fabric stores) and letting it dry flat. This is much cheaper than making a new one and takes only a few minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a crinoline without a sewing machine?

Yes. You can hand-sew every seam using a running stitch or backstitch, though it will take longer—expect 4 to 6 hours instead of 1 to 2. The stitches will be visible on the inside, but the crinoline will work just as well. Use a thimble to protect your finger and take small, even stitches.

How many layers of stiffening do I need?

One to three layers is typical. One layer gives a gentle A-line shape; two or three layers create a fuller, more dramatic bell shape. Start with one and try it on under your dress. If you want more volume, you can always add another layer and re-sew.

What if I do not have a serger or overlock machine?

You do not need one. A regular straight stitch on a sewing machine is fine for a crinoline. Just backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread, and trim loose threads with scissors when you are done.

Can I wear a crinoline without a slip underneath?

You can, but a thin cotton slip under the crinoline will protect your skin from the stiffening material and make the crinoline more comfortable to wear for long periods. The slip also helps the crinoline glide smoothly under your dress without bunching.

How do I know if my crinoline is the right size?

Put it on under your dress and check three things: the waist sits at your natural waist without slipping, the hem does not show below your dress hem, and you can sit and move without the crinoline poking out at the sides or back. If any of these are wrong, you can adjust the waistband tightness or trim the length before wearing it out.