What You'll Make and What You Need

A donut pillow is a ring-shaped cushion with a hole in the center, designed to relieve pressure on the tailbone, coccyx, or perineum. You sew it from two fabric circles, stuff it with fiberfill, and close the seam—the whole project takes two to four hours for a beginner. The finished pillow is about 12 to 14 inches across and 3 to 4 inches thick.

Gather these materials before you start: two pieces of fabric at least 15 by 15 inches (cotton, fleece, or minky work well), fiberfill stuffing (about 16 to 20 ounces), thread that matches your fabric, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, a pencil or fabric marker, a ruler, and a plate or bowl about 12 inches across to use as a template. You will also need a smaller plate or bowl about 4 inches across for the center hole.

If you are sewing by hand, use a needle with an eye large enough for your thread and a thimble to protect your finger. If you are using a machine, thread it with matching thread and set it to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical circles from your fabric using a large plate as a template, then cut out the center hole using a smaller plate or bowl.
  • Pin the two fabric circles together with the right sides facing each other, then sew around the outer edge, leaving a 3-inch opening for turning and stuffing.
  • Turn the pillow right-side out through the opening, push out the seams with a blunt tool, and stuff it firmly with fiberfill until it holds its shape.
  • Close the opening with a ladder stitch (by hand) or a straight stitch (by machine) so the seam is nearly invisible.
  • The entire project works best on a flat surface with good lighting, and hand-sewing takes longer but gives you more control over the stuffing.

Cutting Your Fabric Circles and Center Hole

Lay both pieces of fabric flat on a clean, hard surface with the wrong sides facing up. Place your large plate or bowl (about 12 inches across) in the center of the first piece and trace around it with a pencil or fabric marker. Flip the plate over if the pencil marks show on the right side. Cut along the line with sharp scissors, cutting through only one layer of fabric at a time.

Repeat this step with the second piece of fabric so you have two identical circles. Stack them on top of each other with the wrong sides facing up. Place your smaller plate or bowl (about 4 inches across) in the center of the stack and trace around it. Cut through both layers at once, removing the center circle. You now have two ring-shaped pieces of fabric.

Check that both rings are the same size and that the center holes line up when you stack them. Trim any uneven edges with scissors. The outer edge should be smooth and the inner hole should be round on both pieces.

Pinning and Sewing the Outer Seam

Place the two fabric rings on top of each other with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching, the wrong sides facing out). This is the most common mistake—if you sew with the wrong sides together, your seam will show on the finished pillow. Pin around the outer edge every 2 to 3 inches, pushing the pin straight through both layers.

If you are sewing by machine, position the fabric under the presser foot and lower the foot to hold it in place. Start sewing at any point on the outer edge, using a straight stitch. Sew slowly and keep the fabric edge about half an inch from the needle. When you reach a corner or curve, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, rotate the fabric slightly, and continue sewing.

Sew all the way around the outer edge until you are about 3 inches from where you started. Stop, backstitch three or four times to lock the thread, and cut the thread. This 3-inch opening is where you will turn the pillow right-side out and stuff it. If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch (in and out, in and out) about one-quarter inch from the edge, following the same path.

Turning, Stuffing, and Shaping

Reach through the 3-inch opening and grab the fabric from the inside. Pull gently and steadily until the entire pillow turns right-side out through the hole. The seam should now be on the inside and the pretty fabric should face outward. Use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle or chopstick to push out the seams so they are crisp and even all the way around.

Fill a small bowl with fiberfill stuffing. Pinch off a piece about the size of a golf ball and push it through the opening into the pillow. Use your fingers or the blunt tool to pack it down and spread it evenly around the ring. Repeat this process, adding one piece at a time, until the pillow feels firm and holds its shape when you squeeze it. A pillow that is too soft will flatten under pressure; one that is too firm will be uncomfortable. Aim for the firmness of a couch cushion.

As you stuff, rotate the pillow and check that the filling is even all the way around the ring and that the center hole stays open and round. Pay extra attention to the outer edge—it should feel solid and not lumpy. This step takes 10 to 15 minutes and is worth doing slowly.

Closing the Opening with a Ladder Stitch

The ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch) closes the opening so the seam is nearly invisible. Thread a needle with about 18 inches of thread and tie a knot at the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, so the knot stays hidden inside the pillow.

Pinch the opening closed with your fingers. Insert the needle straight across into the fold of fabric on the opposite side, about one-quarter inch from where you came out. Slide the needle along inside the fold for about one-quarter inch, then bring it back out. Cross back to the first side and repeat: go in, slide inside the fold, come out, cross to the other side. The thread should run along the inside of the fold, not through the fabric itself.

After every four or five stitches, pull the thread gently to close the opening a little more. When you reach the end, tie off the thread by making a small loop, passing the needle through it twice, and pulling tight. Trim the thread close to the fabric. The opening should now be closed and the seam should be a thin line that is hard to see.

Hand-Sewing the Entire Pillow

If you do not have access to a sewing machine, you can sew the entire pillow by hand using a running stitch or a backstitch. A running stitch is faster but weaker; a backstitch is slower but much stronger and is better for a pillow that will get regular use. Thread your needle with about 2 feet of thread and tie a knot at the end.

For a backstitch, bring the needle up through both layers of fabric about one-quarter inch from the edge. Push the needle back down through both layers about one-eighth inch behind where you came out. Come back up one-quarter inch ahead of that point. Repeat this pattern all the way around the outer edge. The stitches should be small and even, about one-eighth to one-quarter inch long.

Hand-sewing takes 45 minutes to an hour for the outer seam alone, but it gives you complete control and works well if you are new to sewing. You can also use a combination: sew the outer seam by machine and close the opening by hand with a ladder stitch for a professional-looking result.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common mistake is sewing with the wrong sides of the fabric facing outward instead of together. This puts the seam on the outside of the finished pillow where it shows. Always check before you start sewing: the pretty sides should be touching each other, and the seam should end up on the inside.

Another frequent problem is leaving the opening too small or in the wrong place. A 3-inch opening is the minimum for turning and stuffing; if it is smaller, you will struggle to pull the fabric through. Make sure the opening is on the outer edge, not near the center hole, so you have room to work.

Uneven stuffing creates a lumpy, uncomfortable pillow. Add fiberfill in small pieces and pack it down as you go. Check the shape often by holding the pillow up to the light and rotating it. If you see thin spots, add more stuffing to those areas.

Finally, do not skip the ladder stitch. A straight stitch closing the opening will show as a visible line on the finished pillow. The ladder stitch takes a few extra minutes but makes the seam almost invisible and gives the pillow a handmade, finished look.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric works best for a donut pillow?

Cotton, fleece, and minky are all good choices. Cotton is breathable and straightforward to sew. Fleece is soft and forgiving if your stitches are not perfect. Minky is plush and comfortable but can be slippery to sew. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or lycra unless you have experience with them, as they can distort the shape.

How much fiberfill do I need?

A 12-inch donut pillow usually needs 16 to 20 ounces of fiberfill. Start with 16 ounces and add more if the pillow feels too soft. It is easier to add stuffing than to remove it, so go slowly. The pillow should feel firm but not hard—you should be able to compress it slightly with your hand.

Can I wash a donut pillow I made?

Yes, but check your fabric first. Most cotton and fleece can be hand-washed in cool water with mild soap and air-dried flat. Minky should be hand-washed gently. Do not machine-wash or dry-clean unless the fabric label says it is safe. Avoid hot water, which can damage the fiberfill and cause the fabric to shrink.

What if my stitches are crooked or uneven?

Crooked stitches on the outer seam will not show because they end up on the inside of the pillow. Uneven stitches on the ladder stitch closing will show a little, but they still hold the seam closed. As you practice, your stitches will become more even. For your first pillow, focus on making sure the seam is strong and the opening is closed securely.

How long will a homemade donut pillow last?

A well-made pillow with strong seams and good-quality fabric can last several years with regular use. The fiberfill may compress over time and feel less firm, but you can open the seam, add more stuffing, and close it again. Washing and air-drying will extend the life of the fabric.