What a double welt pocket is and why you'd make one

A double welt pocket is a horizontal slit in fabric with two parallel strips of fabric (the welts) sewn on either side of the opening. The welts frame the pocket opening and sit flush against the garment surface. You see them on tailored trousers, blazers, and structured jackets because they look finished and professional — the opening is reinforced so it won't tear, and the welts hide the raw edges of the pocket bag underneath.

The double welt is harder than a straightforward patch pocket but easier than a bound buttonhole, which uses the same technique. Once you understand the steps, you can repeat them on multiple pockets without much trouble. The pocket itself — the bag that holds things — is sewn separately and attached after the welts are done.

Key Takeaways

  • Mark your pocket opening on the garment with a pencil line, then sew a rectangle around it to reinforce the area before you cut.
  • Cut two strips of fabric (the welts) on the grain, fold them in half lengthwise, and press them so they stay folded.
  • Sew the folded welts to the garment on either side of your marked line, then cut open the pocket opening between them.
  • Fold the garment so the welts flip up and cover the raw edges, then stitch them down from the back to trap the pocket bag inside.
  • Attach the pocket bag pieces and stitch around all four sides to finish.

Prepare the garment and mark the pocket opening

Decide where your pocket will sit and how wide it will be. A typical trouser pocket is 5 to 6 inches wide and sits about 4 inches down from the waistband. Use a ruler and a sharp pencil or fabric pen to draw a horizontal line on the wrong side of the garment where the pocket opening will be. Draw a second line parallel to the first, about 1/4 inch below it — this is the space between the two welts.

Draw vertical lines at each end to complete a rectangle. This rectangle is your sewing guide. Now stitch around the entire rectangle with a small stitch length (1.5 to 2 mm) using thread that matches your garment. This reinforces the area so the pocket opening won't tear when you cut it or when the pocket is used. Backstitch at the corners for strength.

Cut and prepare the welt strips

Cut two strips of fabric for the welts. Each strip should be as long as your pocket opening plus 1 inch (so if your opening is 5 inches, cut strips 6 inches long), and about 1.5 inches wide. Cut them on the grain of the fabric — the same direction as the warp or weft, not on the bias. Grain-cut welts won't stretch or curl.

Fold each strip in half lengthwise with the right side out, so the folded edge is on one long side. Press the fold flat with an iron. You now have two folded strips, each about 0.75 inches wide. These folded edges will face the pocket opening and frame it.

Sew the welts to the garment

Place the garment wrong side up. Take the first welt strip and position it so the folded edge points toward the center of your rectangle (toward the pocket opening) and the raw edges are away from the opening. The welt should sit on the top line of your rectangle. Pin it in place, then sew along the raw edge of the welt using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Backstitch at both ends.

Repeat with the second welt on the bottom line of your rectangle, with its folded edge also pointing toward the center. Both welts now have their folded edges facing each other across the pocket opening, with raw edges pointing outward. Press both welts flat against the garment.

Cut the pocket opening and fold the welts

On the wrong side of the garment, use a seam ripper or small scissors to carefully cut along the center line between your two sewn welts. Cut all the way across, stopping about 1/2 inch from each end. At each end, cut diagonally toward the corner of your rectangle — these diagonal cuts let the fabric fold without bunching.

Now fold the garment so the right side faces you. The two welts will flip up and cover the raw edges of the pocket opening. The folded edges of the welts should meet in the middle, creating a neat frame around the opening. Press this fold flat. From the wrong side, you will see the raw edges of the welts and the triangular flaps at each end sticking out.

Stitch the welts down from the back

Turn the garment to the wrong side. You will see the raw edges of the welts and the small triangular flaps. Fold these flaps down and stitch them to the welts using a ladder stitch or whip stitch, catching just a few threads so the stitches don't show on the right side. This locks the welts in place and prevents them from shifting.

Alternatively, stitch a rectangle around the pocket opening from the wrong side, sewing through the garment, the welt seam allowances, and the triangular flaps. This is faster and holds everything securely. Use a thread color that matches your garment.

Attach the pocket bag

Cut two pieces of pocket bag fabric (usually cotton twill or lining fabric) to the size of your finished pocket — roughly 6 inches wide by 7 inches tall. Place one piece on the wrong side of the garment, aligned with the pocket opening, and pin it. Stitch around three sides (top, bottom, and one side) using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Leave one side open for now.

Place the second pocket bag piece on top of the first, right sides together, and stitch around all four sides. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch and finish the edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears. Fold the pocket bag to the wrong side of the garment and press. Stitch the opening closed by hand or machine.

Press and inspect

Press the entire pocket area from the right side with a warm iron and a pressing cloth. The welts should lie flat and parallel, with no puckering or gaps. The pocket opening should be clean and even. If a welt edge is visible from the right side, you can hand-stitch it down invisibly using a ladder stitch and thread that matches your garment.

Test the pocket by reaching into it from the right side. It should open smoothly and feel find. If the welts shift or the opening feels loose, add a few more stitches from the wrong side to reinforce the corners.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between a single welt pocket and a double welt pocket?

A single welt pocket has one strip of fabric framing the opening; a double welt has two strips, one above and one below. Double welts look more formal and are stronger because the opening is reinforced on both sides. Single welts are faster to sew and work well on casual garments.

Can I use the same fabric as the garment for the welts, or do I need something different?

You can use the same fabric, but if your garment is thick or loosely woven, use a lighter, tightly woven fabric like cotton twill or lining fabric for the welts. Lighter welts are easier to fold and won't add bulk at the pocket opening.

What do I do if I cut the pocket opening in the wrong place?

If the cut is small, you can patch it from the wrong side with a scrap of fabric and redo the pocket slightly higher or lower. If the cut is large or in a bad spot, you may need to start over on a different part of the garment or accept it as a learning pocket on a muslin test garment.

How do I keep the welts from shifting while I sew?

Pin the welts in place before sewing, and use a walking foot on your machine if you have one — it feeds the fabric evenly and prevents shifting. Sew slowly and check that the welt stays aligned as you go.

Do I need to finish the edges of the pocket bag fabric?

Yes, finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or pinking shears to prevent fraying. This is especially important if you will wash the garment, because loose threads can tangle and weaken the pocket bag.