What You Need to Sew a Duffle Bag

A duffle bag is a cylinder with a drawstring top and a shoulder strap—you can make one with a sewing machine, basic fabric, and webbing. The finished bag takes about three to four hours of hands-on work, spread across two or three sewing sessions if you let glue dry between steps. You will need two pieces of sturdy fabric (canvas, heavy cotton, or upholstery fabric work well), webbing for the strap, a drawstring, and thread that matches or contrasts with your fabric.

The bag itself is made from two rectangular pieces of fabric sewn into a tube, then gathered at the top with a casing for the drawstring. The strap is sewn to the sides of the bag before you close the seams. This is a beginner-friendly project because the seams are straight lines and the construction is forgiving—small mistakes in spacing do not show once the bag is stuffed.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two rectangles of fabric roughly 18 inches wide by 24 inches tall; these dimensions make a medium bag that holds a change of clothes or gym gear.
  • Sew the two pieces together on three sides, leaving the top open, then turn the bag right-side out through that opening.
  • Fold down the top edge twice to create a casing, then sew around the casing to hold the drawstring in place.
  • Attach webbing straps to the inside of the bag before you close the sides, so the strap ends are hidden inside the seams.
  • Thread the drawstring through the casing using a safety pin or bodkin to guide it through the tunnel.

Cutting and Preparing Your Fabric

Start by cutting two rectangles of fabric to the same size. For a medium duffle bag, cut pieces that are 18 inches wide and 24 inches tall. If you want a larger bag, add 2 to 3 inches to both measurements; if you want a smaller one, subtract 2 to 3 inches. Write these measurements on a piece of paper and check them twice before you cut, because cutting is the step you cannot undo.

Lay one piece of fabric on a flat surface with the right side (the side you want to show) facing up. Place the second piece on top of it with the right side facing down, so the two good sides are pressed together. Pin the two pieces along three edges: the bottom and both long sides. Leave the top edge unpinned—this is where you will turn the bag right-side out later. Pin every 4 to 6 inches so the fabric does not shift while you sew.

Sewing the Bag Body and Attaching the Strap

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters. Sew along the three pinned edges, starting at one corner of the bottom and moving up the first long side, across the bottom, and up the second long side. Use a seam allowance of half an inch—that means the needle should be half an inch away from the edge of the fabric. Sew slowly and stop to remove pins as you reach them; do not sew over pins.

Before you turn the bag right-side out, cut two pieces of webbing, each about 24 inches long. These will be the shoulder straps. Pin one strap to the inside of the bag, centered on one of the long sides, with the strap ends pointing toward the unpinned top edge. The strap should lie flat against the fabric. Sew the strap down with a rectangle of stitches—sew a small rectangle around each end of the strap to anchor it firmly. Repeat on the other side of the bag with the second strap. Now turn the bag right-side out by reaching through the unpinned opening and pulling the fabric through. The straps will now be on the outside of the bag, attached at the seams.

Creating the Drawstring Casing

Fold the top raw edge of the bag down by half an inch toward the inside, and press it flat with your fingers or an iron. Fold it down again by another inch, creating a tunnel that runs all the way around the top of the bag. This tunnel is the casing—the drawstring will slide through it. Pin this fold in place all the way around, pinning every 3 to 4 inches.

Sew around the casing close to the bottom edge of the fold, staying parallel to the top of the bag. Sew slowly and keep the line straight; this seam shows on the outside of the finished bag. When you reach the point where you started, overlap your stitches by half an inch and backstitch to lock the thread. Trim the thread ends.

Threading the Drawstring

Cut a piece of cord or heavy string about 36 to 40 inches long for the drawstring. Attach a safety pin to one end of the string by looping the string through the pin's eye and sewing it down with a few stitches. The safety pin acts as a guide to pull the string through the casing without it bunching or getting stuck.

Find the seam on one side of the bag where the strap is attached. Push the safety pin through the casing at that seam, working it slowly around the tunnel. The pin will slide through more easily if you keep the casing relaxed and do not pull too hard. When the pin emerges on the other side, pull the string all the way through until both ends of the string hang out of the opening. Remove the safety pin, tie the two ends of the string together in a knot, and test the drawstring by pulling it to close the bag.

Finishing Touches and Common Mistakes

Once the drawstring is in place, your bag is complete. You can add a second drawstring if you want the bag to close from both sides—thread it through the casing in the opposite direction so the two strings cross. Some people add a small label or patch to the outside of the bag for decoration, sewn on after the bag is finished.

The most common mistake is sewing the strap to the outside of the bag instead of the inside. If this happens, the strap ends will be visible on the finished bag. You can cover them with a patch or leave them as part of the design. Another common issue is the drawstring getting stuck in the casing because it was too thick or the casing was too narrow. If this happens, use a thinner string or a wider casing on your next bag. A third mistake is forgetting to turn the bag right-side out before sewing the casing, which means all your seams show on the outside. Check that the bag is right-side out before you fold down the top edge.

Fabric and Material Choices

Canvas and heavy cotton twill are the best choices for a duffle bag because they hold their shape and wear well. Upholstery fabric and denim also work. Avoid lightweight cotton or knit fabrics—they will sag and stretch out of shape. If you want a waterproof bag, use canvas that has been treated with a water-resistant coating, or line the inside of the bag with a waterproof fabric like nylon before you sew the sides together.

For the strap, use webbing that is at least 1.5 inches wide so it does not cut into your shoulder. Cotton webbing is comfortable and straightforward to sew; nylon webbing is more durable but can slip under the presser foot. For the drawstring, use a cord that is at least a quarter inch thick—thinner cord will disappear into the casing and be hard to grip. Paracord, cotton rope, and braided nylon all work well.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a duffle bag without a sewing machine?

Yes, but it takes much longer. You can sew the seams by hand using a backstitch, which is strong and reliable. Hand-sewing the three main seams takes about two to three hours. The casing seam is easier to hand-sew than the main seams because it is on the outside and you can see what you are doing. Use a needle that fits your thread and take stitches about a quarter inch long.

What size should I make my duffle bag?

An 18-by-24-inch bag holds a change of clothes, shoes, and toiletries—good for a gym bag or overnight trip. A 20-by-28-inch bag holds a week's worth of clothes and is closer to a real travel duffle. A 16-by-20-inch bag is small enough for a child or for carrying just a few items. Measure a bag you already own and use those dimensions as a starting point.

Do I need to reinforce the seams?

Not for a bag that will carry light to medium weight. If you plan to fill the bag with heavy items like books or tools, sew the main seams twice—sew them once, then sew a second line of stitches a quarter inch away from the first line. This is called a double seam and it distributes the weight across more thread.

What if the drawstring keeps coming out of the casing?

Tie a knot at each end of the drawstring so it cannot slip back through the casing. You can also sew the knots to the bag with a few stitches to hold them in place permanently. Some people add a small bead or button to each end of the string instead of a knot.

Can I add pockets to the inside of my duffle bag?

Yes. Cut a rectangle of fabric about 6 by 8 inches, fold the top edge down by half an inch and sew it, then pin the pocket to the inside of one of the bag pieces before you sew the bag together. Sew the pocket down on three sides, leaving the top open. The pocket will be trapped inside the bag seams and will not shift.