What You Need to Know Before You Start

A fishing net is made by tying knots in a single length of twine or cord, working in rows to create a mesh with uniform openings. The process is slower than machine-made nets, but hand-sewn nets are durable, repairable, and customizable to the size and mesh you need. You will tie thousands of small knots—a net large enough to cast from a boat takes 8 to 20 hours depending on mesh size and your speed.

The two most common hand methods are the square knot method (also called the sheet bend) and the clove hitch method. The square knot method is faster and produces a net that hangs evenly. The clove hitch method is slower but creates a tighter, more durable mesh. Most beginners start with square knots.

You do not need expensive tools. A net needle (a flat wooden or plastic shuttle that holds the twine) and a mesh gauge (a wooden or plastic bar that sets the size of each opening) are the only specialized items. Both cost under $15 and last indefinitely. You can make a mesh gauge from a wooden dowel if you have one on hand.

Key Takeaways

  • Hand-sewn nets are made by tying knots in rows, with each knot anchored to the previous row, and the square knot method is the fastest approach for beginners.
  • You need only a net needle, a mesh gauge, and twine—the needle holds the working length of cord, and the gauge ensures every opening is the same size.
  • The first row is tied to a lead line (a cord stretched between two fixed points), and every row after that is tied to the row above it.
  • Mesh size is set by the width of your gauge; a 1-inch gauge produces 1-inch openings, and larger gauges speed up the work but create nets with bigger holes.
  • A small practice net (12 inches square, 1-inch mesh) takes 2 to 3 hours and teaches you the rhythm before you commit to a full-sized net.

Choosing Your Twine and Mesh Size

The twine you choose determines how long the net lasts and what it can catch. Nylon twine is the most common choice for hand nets because it resists rot, holds knots well, and costs less than natural fiber. Sizes range from #18 (thin, for small fish and fine mesh) to #60 (thick, for large fish and durability). Most beginner nets use #24 to #36 nylon twine, which is strong enough for freshwater fishing and straightforward to tie.

Mesh size is the distance between knots—measured as the width of one opening. A 1-inch mesh catches small fish and is fast to tie. A 2-inch mesh catches larger fish but requires more twine and takes longer. For a practice net, use 1-inch mesh. For a casting net you plan to use, match the mesh to the fish species: 0.5-inch for baitfish, 1-inch for panfish, 1.5 to 2 inches for bass or larger species.

Calculate how much twine you need by multiplying the finished net width by the finished net height, then multiplying by 4. A 3-foot-wide, 3-foot-tall net with 1-inch mesh needs roughly 36 feet of twine. Buy 20 percent extra to account for knots and mistakes.

Setting Up Your Work Frame

Stretch a lead line (a sturdy cord) between two fixed points at a comfortable working height—a clothesline, a rope tied between two chairs, or a horizontal bar on a workbench all work. The lead line should be as long as the width of the net you want to make. Tie it tight so it does not sag.

Thread your net needle with twine, leaving a 12-inch tail. Tie the tail to the lead line using a straightforward overhand knot. This is your starting point. You will now tie the first row of knots along the lead line, spacing them according to your mesh gauge.

Place your mesh gauge (the wooden bar) against the lead line next to your starting knot. This space between the lead line and the gauge is where you will tie your first knot. The gauge ensures every opening is the same width.

Tying the Square Knot (First Row)

Hold the mesh gauge against the lead line with one hand. With your other hand, bring the twine from your needle up and around the lead line, then back down and through the loop you just created. Pull tight. This is a square knot (or half of one). Repeat the motion once more—up and around the lead line, back down and through the loop—to complete the full knot.

The knot should sit snugly against the lead line, with the mesh gauge still in place. Slide the gauge one mesh-width to the right and repeat. Continue along the entire lead line until you reach the end. Your first row is now complete—a line of evenly spaced knots, each one the same distance apart.

When you run out of twine on your needle, tie a new length to the end of the old one using a square knot, and keep going. These joining knots will be hidden inside the net as you work.

Building Rows Two Through the End

The second row is tied to the first row, not to the lead line. Tie a new length of twine to the leftmost knot of the first row. Now, instead of anchoring to the lead line, you will anchor each new knot to the knot directly above it in the previous row.

Place your mesh gauge below the first knot of the previous row. Bring your twine up through the loop of that knot, then down and around the gauge, then back up and through the loop you created. Pull tight. This ties a new knot to the old one, with the gauge setting the distance. Slide the gauge to the next knot and repeat.

Each row will have one fewer knot than the row above it (because the net tapers as it grows). When you reach the end of a row, tie off the twine and start a new row. Continue until the net is as tall as you want it. A practice net might be 12 inches tall; a casting net is usually 4 to 6 feet.

Finishing the Net and Testing It

When you reach the final row and have tied your last knot, cut the twine and tie it off securely to the last knot using a square knot. Trim any loose ends. If you want to add a weight line (a cord with sinkers attached) to the bottom edge, tie it to the bottom row of knots using the same square knot method.

Before using the net, soak it in fresh water for 30 minutes. This relaxes the twine and lets you see if any knots are loose. Tighten any that move. Hang the net to dry completely before storing it.

Test the net in shallow water or a bathtub before relying on it. Check that the mesh openings are uniform and that no knots slip under load. If a knot fails, you can tie a new one in place without unraveling the whole net—this is one advantage of hand-sewn nets over machine-made ones.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

The most common error is pulling knots too tight, which distorts the mesh and makes the next row harder to tie. Pull just hard enough that the knot does not slip—it should be snug, not strangled. If your net starts to look lopsided, you are likely pulling some knots tighter than others. Slow down and use the same pressure on every knot.

Another frequent problem is losing count of rows or knots. Mark every fifth knot with a small piece of tape or a different-colored thread so you can count quickly and catch mistakes early. If you discover a loose knot three rows later, it is easier to fix it right away than to wait until the net is finished.

Twine that tangles or knots itself wastes time. Keep the twine on your needle loose and untwisted. If it starts to coil, unwind it by letting the needle hang and spin freely for a few seconds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a machine to sew a fishing net?

A standard sewing machine cannot tie the knots that hold a fishing net together. Industrial net-making machines exist, but they cost thousands of dollars. Hand-tying is the practical method for one-off nets or repairs.

How long does a hand-sewn net last?

A nylon net used regularly lasts 3 to 5 years if rinsed with fresh water after each use and stored dry. Natural fiber nets (cotton or linen) last 1 to 2 years because they rot faster. Damage to a few knots does not ruin the net—you can retie them individually.

What is the difference between a casting net and a gill net?

A casting net is circular, weighted around the edge, and thrown by hand. A gill net is rectangular, hung vertically in the water, and left to catch fish that swim into it. Both are hand-sewn the same way; the shape and weight distribution are the only differences. Check your local fishing regulations—gill nets are illegal in many places.

Do I need to treat the twine with anything before I start?

Nylon twine does not need treatment. If you use natural fiber twine (cotton or linen), soaking it in a wood preservative or linseed oil before you start will extend its life, but it is not required. Modern nylon is durable enough without treatment.

What if I make a mistake in the middle of the net?

If you tie a knot in the wrong place or miss one, you can cut it out and retie it without unraveling the whole net. Carefully cut the bad knot, then tie a new one in its place using the same anchor points. This is one reason hand-sewn nets are easier to repair than machine-made ones.