A floor pillow takes an afternoon and costs less than a store-bought one

A floor pillow is two pieces of fabric sewn together, stuffed with fiberfill or old fabric scraps, and closed with a ladder stitch or whip stitch. The whole project takes three to five hours if you have a sewing machine, or a full day by hand. You need fabric (two pieces at least 24 by 24 inches), thread that matches or contrasts, fiberfill or stuffing material, a needle or machine, scissors, and pins. No pattern is required — you cut two squares or rectangles the same size, sew three sides closed, turn it right-side out, stuff it, and stitch the fourth side shut.

The hardest part is not the sewing. It is deciding how full to make it. A pillow stuffed tight enough to sit on comfortably takes more fiberfill than you might expect, and it will compress over time. Most people underestimate this and end up with a pillow that feels flat after a month.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical fabric pieces at least 24 by 24 inches, pin them together with the right sides facing inward, and sew three sides with a half-inch seam allowance.
  • Turn the pillow right-side out through the opening, push the corners out with a blunt tool, and press the seams flat with an iron before stuffing.
  • Stuff the pillow firmly in layers, checking the corners and edges first, then close the opening with a ladder stitch that is nearly invisible.
  • Use cotton canvas, denim, or upholstery fabric for a pillow that will hold its shape; avoid thin quilting cotton unless you plan to make a decorative pillow that will not bear weight.

Choosing fabric weight and type

The fabric you choose determines how long your pillow lasts and how much weight it can hold. Canvas, denim, and upholstery-weight cotton are the best choices because they do not stretch, fray easily, or tear under the pressure of someone sitting on them. A 12-ounce canvas or heavier denim will outlast a lighter fabric by years. If you want a softer feel, use a quilting cotton on the outside and a canvas or muslin on the inside where the stress is greatest.

Avoid thin fabrics like regular quilting cotton for the whole pillow unless you plan to make a small decorative pillow that will only be leaned against, not sat on. If you have fabric scraps, layer them — two or three thinner pieces sewn together act like one thicker piece. Prewash your fabric if it is cotton, because it will shrink slightly in the wash and you want that to happen before you sew, not after.

Cutting and pinning the fabric pieces

Measure and cut two pieces of fabric to the same size. A 24-by-24-inch pillow is a standard floor size and takes about two yards of 45-inch-wide fabric. A 30-by-30-inch pillow is more comfortable for sitting but uses more material. Mark your cutting lines with a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk, then cut straight with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter.

Place the two pieces together with the right sides facing inward — the pretty sides should be touching, and the wrong sides should face outward. Pin all four sides, placing pins every three to four inches. Pin close to the edge, about a quarter-inch in, so you do not sew over them. Leave one side unpinned for now — you will sew three sides, turn the pillow right-side out through the fourth side, stuff it, and then close that side by hand.

Sewing three sides on a machine or by hand

If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch and a stitch length of 2.5 millimeters. Sew along three sides with a half-inch seam allowance — that means the needle should be half an inch away from the edge of the fabric. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Sew slowly around corners and remove pins as you approach them, never sewing over a pin.

If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch or a backstitch. A backstitch is stronger: push the needle through both layers, bring it back up a quarter-inch ahead, then push it back down through the hole you just came out of. This creates a solid line of stitches. A running stitch is faster but weaker — push the needle in and out in one motion, making small even stitches. Either way, keep your stitches about a quarter-inch apart and maintain a half-inch distance from the edge.

When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot (if using a machine), pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the foot, and continue sewing. By hand, straightforward change direction and keep stitching. Sew all the way to the corner of the fourth side, then stop. Do not sew the fourth side closed yet.

Turning, pressing, and preparing to stuff

Trim the seam allowance at each corner to a quarter-inch — this reduces bulk and helps the corners turn out sharp and square. Cut diagonally across the corner, being careful not to cut through the stitches. Then turn the pillow right-side out by reaching through the open side and pulling the fabric through. Push gently so the corners come out fully.

Once the pillow is right-side out, use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle or a chopstick to push the corners out from the inside. Press the seams flat with an iron on a medium setting. Pay special attention to the three sewn sides — a crisp seam looks finished and helps the pillow hold its shape. Let the pillow cool before you stuff it.

Stuffing the pillow firmly and evenly

Fiberfill comes in bags at fabric stores and costs between three and eight dollars depending on the size. You will need more than you think — a 24-by-24-inch pillow that is comfortable to sit on typically takes a full bag or more. Tear off small pieces of fiberfill and push them into the corners first, using your blunt tool to pack them in. Corners are where pillows look flat, so overstuff them slightly.

Work your way around the edges, then fill the center. Add fiberfill in layers rather than all at once, and check the firmness as you go by pressing on the pillow. It should feel solid but not rock-hard. If you are using fabric scraps instead of fiberfill, tear them into small pieces and pack them in the same way. Fabric scraps take longer to stuff evenly but cost nothing if you have them on hand.

Stop when the pillow feels full enough to sit on without bottoming out. You can always add more fiberfill before you close the final seam, but you cannot remove it without opening the pillow again.

Closing the opening with a ladder stitch

A ladder stitch (also called a whip stitch or invisible stitch) closes the opening so neatly that the seam is almost invisible. Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric. Knot the end and push the needle through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, so the knot hides inside the seam allowance. Bring the needle out about a quarter-inch along the seam.

Cross to the opposite side of the opening and push the needle directly across into the fold of fabric on that side. Slide the needle inside the fold for about half an inch, then bring it back out. Cross back to the first side and repeat. The needle travels inside the fold of fabric on each side, creating a ladder pattern. Pull the thread gently every few stitches to close the opening — the seam will draw together and disappear. When you reach the end, push the needle through the fold one more time, wrap the thread around the needle twice, and pull tight to lock the stitch. Trim the thread.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a sewing machine for the whole pillow, including the closing seam?

Yes, but the seam will be visible. If you want an invisible seam, use the ladder stitch by hand. If you do not mind a visible seam, you can machine-stitch the fourth side closed, but leave a two-inch opening for stuffing, stuff the pillow, then sew that opening shut by machine. The seam will run along one edge of the pillow.

What should I do if my pillow goes flat after a few months?

Fiberfill compresses over time, especially if the pillow is sat on regularly. You can open one seam with a seam ripper, add more fiberfill, and close it again with a ladder stitch. Alternatively, fluff the pillow regularly by kneading it like bread — this redistributes the fiberfill and keeps it from clumping.

Can I make a floor pillow without a sewing machine?

Yes. Hand-sewing takes longer — expect six to eight hours instead of three to five — but the process is identical. Use a backstitch for strength, keep your stitches small and even, and take breaks to avoid hand fatigue. The result is just as durable as a machine-sewn pillow.

What is the best way to wash a floor pillow?

If your fabric is machine-washable, you can open one seam, remove the fiberfill, wash the cover, and restuff it. Alternatively, spot-clean the pillow with a damp cloth and mild soap. Do not machine-wash a finished pillow because the fiberfill will clump and the seams may tear under the agitation.